I have 2k on my new EB, I did my 1st change at 1k w/ motorcraft filter and Mobil 1 oil and will continue at 5k and every 5k after that

 

Filter doesn't matter either. They may not know the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. No manufacturer can force you to use their branded product and deny a warranty claim if you don't.

 

Majority of Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator or Racor. Very high quality filters, especially for the price.

Josh

 

Yup. Motorcraft filters and either M1 or Motorcraft semi-syn have propelled multiple Fords owned by my family and me to 150K+ miles.

 

I learned recently how important it is to keep maintenance receipts.

Some good friends of ours blew an engine at 30,000 miles on their '15 Kia Sorento. The dealer took the valve covers off and found sludge everywhere. Kia saw this of evidence of neglect, and insisted on seeing maintenance records for them to cover the repair. She couldn't find the receipts, as her husband did the oil changes in their driveway, and they denied her warranty claim.

Ford isn't immune to this either, I've read of a couple here on FTE who had to prove their maintenance history when evidence of neglect was found. One of my coworkers is having engine trouble on his '09 F150 that's still covered under an ESP. His dealer asked him for maintenance records, and that Ford will ask for them if they find any sludge.

I'll be scanning and backing up every oil and filter receipt from this point forward, and I recommend everyone else do the same.

 

I've worked in many dealerships as a wash boy/quick lube tech and seen how strict major warranty claims can be, I have my dealer email me all my recipts and I keep the hard copies in a folder at home for this reason.

one story of neglect I can tell is when I worked for BMW. a guy leased an M5 for 2 years drove the hell out of it and never maintained it brought it back for lease return with the motor barely running. BMW authorized my dealer to do a tear down of the motor and found that there was half a quart of oil left, every valve was sludged and the motor needed a complete rebuild. long story short BMW billed the leasee for $25000 took him to court and won for negligence

 

While that is the fact sir, your case will be easier with the MC filter. Ford and the dealer can make this as hard or as easy as they deem necessary.

As Tom mentioned a bit ago, there have been a couple of users on here who have had to scramble to prove that they properly maintained their engines. That's got to be painful if your records are incomplete and can't account for every mile driven.

 

Take to the dealer no mess no excuses in the future!

 

I'm a little frustrated I never understood this before. I've been changing my own oil for over a decade and don't have a single receipt for what I've done. I've read about this before and didn't think a whole lot of it until my friends blew up their Kia. I'm not worried about an engine failure, but I'll definitely be saving receipts from here on out.

 

I've never paid much attention in the past either. However, I will now.

BTW Tom, I love your sig line about the turbos.

 

Just for the record, my coworkers truck is being covered under warranty without requiring any service records. They didn't find sludge or other evidence of neglect, so he didn't have to prove that he changed his oil. He's getting it back today.

Thanks Tim! I was thinking about the often repeated "No replacement for displacement". I think that was true 110 years ago, but forced induction has been doing a fantastic job replacing displacement ever since.

 

I realize there is a lot of talk about conventional, semi-syn & full-syn oils, but.....

With regards to syn vs non-syn oils, today, all oils are considered synthetic. While I am not promoting this company nor their products, they have an excellent, detailed description as to how & why all oils today are considered “Synthetic” Synthetic Motor Oil and was confirmed through legal proceedings http://www.scribd.com/doc/217558103/...s-Day-in-Court. Mfgs such as castrol, are actually using a oil base that is not by previous industry standards to be even considered a "synthetic", was sued (By Exxon/Mobile IIRR) and they won in court because they were able to demonstrate with additives they were essentially delivering a syn product. When looking at all the refineries in the US (2014), the only one really capable of supporting 100% synthetic oil manufacturing is Chevron/Phillips refinery in Texas…and it is not promoted as a synthetic oil.

Using different oils...well, not a fan, as this was something that was past down many generations to me and an oil engineer has stated such....

Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible : Additives

“Additives are blended at the proper rate, heat and in the proper proportions by the manufactures of their particular product. Crude supplies are not all the same quality and the additives have to be adjusted for the quality of the base stock being used by each particular company, per batch. Dumping your own personal stuff will more than likely be way inferior to what the oil manufacturer uses. The chemicals will normally differ from the manufacturers blend, and can cancel each other out to the point where there will be no anti-wear properties left in the product. (This is one reason it's not wise to mix oils from different manufacturers together). Changing the oil from say Mobil to Shell and then to Pennzoil will have a negative effect on your engine from conflicting chemicals. Buy an oil that you may like and STICK TO THAT COMPANY'S product.”

“What you may get away with when using Shell may cause instant havoc with Valvoline. The major oil companies work closely with the auto manufacturers so that bearing material, seal material, roller bearings, ball bearings, and all other moving parts are not adversely affected by the oil products. This is especially true for automatic transmissions. DO NOT USE SOMETHING OTHER THAN WHAT IS SPECIFIED BY THE CAR MAKER FOR YOUR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION”


Read more: Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible : Additives

 

I am doing my first oil change at 1500 miles,switching to
Mobile 1 and a Wix filter..I get M1 extended lif full synth cheaper than
Motorcraft which is a blend plus the same brand filters are
average at best . Tear one down and you can tell the difference between WIX and
the rest of whats out there

While Motorcraft will work fine its just not the best bang for the buck IMO

 

This is the best oil explanation I have ever found:

Motor Oil

The higher the psi the oil has, the better.

Wear protection reference categories are:


Over 105,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection


90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection


75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection


1. 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM synthetic = 115,612 psi.

2. 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic = 105,875 psi

3. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi

4. 5W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN synthetic = 99,983 psi

5. 5W30 Pennzoil “Ultra” Platinum, Pure Plus Technology, made from pure natural gas, API SN = 99,039 psi This oil was introduced in 2014, and comes in a dark gray bottle with a blue vertical stripe on the label.

6. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN synthetic = 96,364 psi

7. 5W20 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic = 94,663 psi

8. 5W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN synthetic = 94,460 psi

Diesel: 5W30 Amsoil Series 3000 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil synthetic, API CI-4 PLUS, CF, SL, ACEA A3/B3, E2, E3, E5, E7 = 102,642 psi
This is BY FAR, the highest ranked Diesel oil I have ever tested. This oil is Engineered for Diesel engines not equipped with Diesel particulate filters (DPF). Amsoil says this oil delivers better wear protection than other popular Diesel oils. And in this case, their hype is absolutely true. They also say it effectively reduces fuel consumption, with its advanced fuel efficient formula. This oil costs $11.15 per quart in the 2013 Amsoil Factory Direct Retail Catalog, which is 10% more than Amsoil’s 5W40 Premium Synthetic Diesel Oil. So, in this case, you pay only 10% more for the Amsoil Series 3000 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil, but you get a whopping 33% more wear protection than you get with the Amsoil’s 5W40 Premium Synthetic Diesel Oil. Money very well spent, if you run a Diesel oil intended for engines not equipped with Diesel particulate filters. The next highest ranked Diesel oil ranks far lower on the ranking list. So, this 5W30 Amsoil Series 3000 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil is in a class of its own, among all the Diesel oils I have tested.

Many of you have posted opinions about synthetic oil claiming that since you don't tow, or don't work the truck hard and change it sooner than ~10,000 miles or so that there is "no need" to use a full synthetic oil, or that you would no derive any benefits if you did use synthetic oil.

That really is not quite correct. Many people overlook one important fact about full PAO synthetic oil: It does not contain any of the parrafinic elements that make up the base of all conventional and "blended" oils.
Parrafin, of course is otherwise known as "wax". All blends are in the range of 85-90% dino, if not even higher, so there is still an abundance of wax present in blends.

The wax base in conventional oil (dino) is what gives it the neccesary "robustness' to withstand the extreme and diverse operating temperatures and pressures. Unfortunately, the wax is also the main contributor to sludge build-up within an engine.
If you only remember one thing about engine oil and engine cleanliness, it is this:
Sludge is far and away the #1 cause of engine failure.

All name-brand dino oils have advanced additive packages to prevent and combat sludge, but it still eventually occurs no matter what you do.

It takes (basically) four things to make sludge in an engine:
Air
Heat
Petroleum
Water
Air and heat are givens, as they are simply the nature of an internal combustion engine.
Water comes from moisture developed when operating an internal combustion engine, and can be controlled somewhat and dealt with with a variety of oil additives and engine devices (PCV system primarily), but they are not anywhere near 100% effective either, so water is also a "given".

However, a full PAO synthetic oil does not derive from parrafinic- based petroleum.
It is sourced from the family of ethylene and propane gasses. Absolutely zero wax content.

A Note: because all motor oils ( dino, blends and synthetics) require additive packages, and because all additive packages DO contain small but still-present petroleum products, there is no such thing as a modern motor oil with absolute ZERO wax content. Full synthetic is very, very close, but not quite zero.

Dino motor oil does not have to be "used up" or dirty before sludge starts to occur: It happens ALL THE TIME as you are operating your engine. The additives are designed to keep it in check until you cahnge the oil, but it still accumulates.

The big advantage to full synthetic is that because it has (nearly) no wax in it, it basically makes (nearly) NO SLUDGE in your engine.
This will make your engine far outlast any engine run in similar circumstances on dino oil.

Now....if you plan on getting rid of the truck around or before about 100,000 miles, then it may well indeed be a waste of your money to use synthetic. Modern (Ford) engines with modern dino oils are well capabale of reaching 100K with little or no excessive degradation due to sludge build-up. You would probably not notice any driveability issues during that time.

However...if you are mostly concerned with making your engine last forever (or as close as is possible) and plan on keeping it forever, then a full synthetic is probably highly recommended for you.

Another note: All "full synthetics' are not the same:

PAO (polyalphaolephin) synthetics are a Group-V base stock derived from non-wax based sources.
Group-IV parrafinic based stocks are derived from parrafinic sources, but go through many expensive extra-refining steps (iso-propane dewaxing, severe hydro-treating, etc...) to give them the ability to perform nearly as well as a PAO synthetic. It still has wax in it, and the FTC allows Group-IV oils to also be sold and advertised as "full synthetic". In reality it is not.
If you are interested in that story, look up the Mobil v. Castrol (Syntec) story from about 20 years ago.

Group-IV are very good, but they still have wax in them.

Mobil 1 has always been a full PAO. ExxonMobil now sells in addition to Mobil 1 a Group-IV product called "Mobil Super-Syn Full Synthetic" which is only to go head-to-head with other Group-IV oils. (price point stuff)

Amsoil has for many years switched back and forth indiscrimently between full PAO and Group-IV in their line of "Full Synthetic" oils, depending on where they get the best deal from thier suppliers. They took a lot of heat for that from industry insiders, and because of that, a few years ago they too introduced 2 lines of "full synthetics", one a full PAO and the other a Group -IV.

Basically, a clean engine lasts far longer than a sludged up engine, and nothing keeps an engine cleaner than a good full synthetic oil.

 

My general theory for using M1 is that some of the highest-end performance manufacturers are using it as factory-fill for vehicles that will put far more strain on their motors than I ever will. Good enough for them, good enough for me.

5.4s with 200K on them burning no noticeable oil is good corroboration.