Here's the problem.
Stopped for gas, only put in 5 gallons (didn't want to stop on way home with the travel trailer in tow).
Engine died right after starting.
Restarted, tried to move forward and it sputtered and died again.
Did it perhaps one more time.
Engine started again left it running, opened the hood and didn't smell or hear anything odd.
Drove for another 30 miles to campsite, parked for one day (not risking failure before going home)
Started it up a day later hooked up the trailer and didn't shut it off for 4 and a half hours (had to do a tire change too!). No issues at all while towing for 200 miles, toilet stops, stop and go traffic, idling etc..


Here's what I've ruled out:
Not the gas (only put it 5 gallons, and literally just started the engine when it died)
Not temperature related (I had the engine monitor from towing and engine and transmission temps were just fine. Ambient temp about 75F.
Not related to cold starting (I had just driven about 3 miles from last stop, and about 25 miles prior to that).
No Codes were set, or pending (Per Dashawk Engine Monitor)
94,000 miles. Spark plugs were replaced about 15,000 miles ago. Never replaced any coil on plugs, but don't think that's related here.


My phone search when it first happened pointed to IAC (Idle Air control), which our years don't have. Other searches suggested the throttle body being dirty, the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), Throttle Body Motor, MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor) and the Canister Purge Valve aka Vapor Management Valve.


Last night I removed the throttle body, and cleaned it. It had some gunk that could have possibly caused some resistance to opening, but nothing major. I cleaned the Throttle Body and MAF, let it sit for a while and it started just fine. Although the truck wasn't as warm, I started it about 5 times without any issues. I used to run a K&N filter up to a few years ago, but stopped when I realized the risk of oil on the MAF was too great and passing through dirt to the engine was possible.


Drove 25 miles to work the next day, shut it off and restarted a couple of times. Ambient temps were only in the low 60's so it wasn't as near as warm.


My wife primarily drives this vehicle, so I have to get it taken care of ASAP, but I don't want to shotgun a bunch of parts replacement. We will also be taking a 5,500 mile road trip this June so I definitely want it sorted out before then.


Thanks in advance for any help on this matter. I've searched other F150 / Raptor forms and they show problems with the purge valve, although a different design and installed location.

 

I think I found the issue. It looks like Ford has a couple of TSB's for canister purge valves.


http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Ma...024_stalll.pdf


AUDIBLE UNDERHOOD CLICK NOISE AND/OR HARD TSB 12-3-10


START AFTER REFUELING WITH DTCS P0171,


P0174, P0316, P144A, AND/OR P1450


Although the TSB doesn't specifically apply to my 2007 Expedition, the symptom is exactly the same. I didn't hear the clicking that the TSB mentions, but it sounds legit. I'll try replacing the valve soon and see what happens. I'll see if I can duplicate it by removing the fuel cap before I fill up again.

 

According to that TSB if there is no clicking and no DTCs, the issue wouldn't apply. Let us know how it turns out though.

 

I duplicated it today after filling up with gas again, glad that I could duplicate it, but it took several tries to get the truck started. I had to push it out of the line at Costco gas, disconnect the battery and reconnect the battery before I could restart it. No codes pending or set. I'm not certain codes would be set if the engine fails to start. I tried unplugging the connector and removing the fuel cap but it made no difference until did the battery thing. When the engine started, there was no excessive exhaust plume like I might have expected withe excessive fuel.

I didn't hear clicking, but the TSB did state " may exhibit an audible clicking noise in the engine compartment and/or hard start Expedition/Navigator) after refueling with diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs)P0144A, P0171, P0174, P0316, and/or P1450.

I'm going to focus on the "and/or hard start"

I'm shopping for parts at rock auto as soon as I post this.

 

I replaced the canister purge valve, topped it off with gas and it started OK the first time, then didn't start two more times. Once it started, then died about 10 seconds later. I thought I had this figured out but I have my doubts, and it will take me another week before I burn enough gas to duplicate again.

Anyone other suggestions? Still no codes

 

I finally fixed the issue. The root cause was the fuel pump assembly. One of wires above the motor was melted as well as the housing. Kind of scary with that much heat in the fuel tank, but it supposed to be safe because its too fuel rich of an environment to ignite
To make a long story short, in June/July we drove 6500 miles across the country from PHX to DC and many places in between dozens of fill ups, without a single hitch. On the first fill up after getting home and only a couple of days, the Expy wouldn't start the next morning. We were so lucky and blessed this didn't happen on the road (we were literally praying every day on our trip for this not to happen). With a full fuel tank, I used my Gastapper pump to empty out the fuel tank into my NATO jerry cans. I already had the Gastapper siphon pump when I was diagnosing the starting problem before. The worst part about replacing the fuel pump was the connector for the fuel tank pressure sensor, I had a picture of the connector from the internet that was blind on the top of the fuel tank, and I still couldn't get it disconnected without breaking it. I ended up zip tying the connector to hold it to the sensor.
In hindsight, I should have checked fuel pressure before, and saved me some parts. I did borrow a fuel pressure gauge from a buddy, but it didn't have the right fittings. I used a factory part from RockAuto and replaced the fuel filter in the process.

 

Thank You.......for reporting back the solution. !