You have a point, I have not 100% ruled out a spark issue.
I have tried several coils but have not checked for proper voltage to those coils. Anyone know how to do that? I'm 80% sure it's not the issue as the latest WOT pull had fuel trims within .1% average. A bad spark woud had a larger delta.


I don't know if it did this prior to KB install. I never stood in front of it and free reved it, had no reason to.

I have 100% ruled out, injectors as the 19 lb injectors knocked, as did 2 different 30 pounders. I have also ruled out pullies, water pump, belts etc. I have 60% ruled out valves, followers, cam, and lash adjuster. Compression is good at 120+ psi.

Next to do is exhaust, I will cut out cat and install a test pipe. Not sure I could hear the knock if I just disconnect the y pipe from converter pipe. I will try first though.

If that fails I will be pulling oil pan.

It would have been easier at this point to buy a new motor from Ford and install it.

If I have to do that the supercharger kit will need to be sold to pay for new motor.

 

Before you pull the pan, cut the oil filter apart and see what's in there...hopefully nothing.

 

Good advise changed oil last night to a heavier 5W30 hoping it would help. Strained oil thru a paint funnel...no silver tint a or chunks. Didn't think to cut open filter, I will do that tonight. 30W did not help.

At this point I'm hoping for a rod bearing that has not damaged crank or rod and I can just instal a new bearing. If it's a wrist pin I'm cutting my losses and buying a new motor.

AER remanufactures Fords motors. I can get a remaned YC3Z6006GARM motor for $3480 with a $800 exchange.
Thanks

 

If it is a rod bearing, I would want to have the big end of the rod checked to make sure it's round. However, if it is a rod bearing, they usually go pretty fast, has the sound changed at all?

 

No sound has not changed.

I even did a 5000 rpm WOT pull 2 times.

Same sound.

 

When it is knocking, can you feel it on the cam cover or anywhere else on the engine? Definitely can turn it off and on with the coil.

 

I will use coil to turn off tonight. I typically use the injector as I don't like pumping fuel in a dead cylinder.

I can definatelly turn it on and off by pulling injector clip.

 

Sorry, I meant to say injector. I mostly play with old carb'd engines and spark is the only you can turn off per cyl by pulling a wire.

 

Don't the 6.8's have an inherent misbalance in the crank and thus have a balance shaft? Something else to consider as well... If that is messed up you'll get knock-like sounds.

 

Yes the drivers side head has a balance shaft.

#1 is on passenger side.

I get your point though, I will disconnect #6 on drivers side and see what happens.

On my 1995 Eagle Talon (4 banger) the balance shaft rotates in block. I removed it and motor shakes but doesn't knock. I guess if the bearings went out it could knock though.

Stethoscope readings indicate issue is on passenger side though...along with #1 injector being killed quieting the motor. However your point is valid and I will pull opposite #6 injector plug and see what happens.

 

I just loathe chasing engine sounds. Half the time the sound is being transmitted through some other random components so it sounds like A but its actually Q

 

About 2.5 years ago my V10 made a horrendous noise. Almost like there was gravel in the crankcase. I pictured the worst scenario, timing chains rubbing against the timing cover, things like that. While it was idling, the breather tube on the drivers cam cover vibrated terribly. The next day I pulled the cam cover off only to find the splash shield that was plastic welded to the inside of the cover had separated. The baffle itself was bouncing on the balance shaft. Hope it's simple in your situation.

 

Best way I can describe the sound is a ball peen hammer tapping on block really fast.

I know it sounds bad..

I will find it even if I have to break it motor to do it.

Been thinking about removing the followerS in #1 and making this a supercharged V9.....if I could figure a way to prevent oil pressure from pushing the lash adjusters out and reeking havoc on my oiling system.

On a side note....I've decided to intercool this KB kit. There is alot of room under intake manifold where the lower plenum is. Bell Intercoolers has the parts I need to replace the lower plenum with a custom lower plenum that has an air to water intercooler in it. That along with a heat exchanger some hose and pump will intercool this kit.

Eventually this kit will be what KB should have done to begin with. Bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, bigger MAF, relocated IAT sensor and a intercooler.

If motor IS broke and I have to sell this kit someone will get a very good system.

 

That's exactly what my Cougar sounded like when I had a crank bearing go out, except mine only did it at a higher RPM's, and went away when the RPM's dropped.

Stewart

 

Yuck, that would mean I would need to sell kit and get a new motor.