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1978 F250 460 ZF5 swap/build

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  #31  
Old 04-07-2016, 08:54 PM
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Got a little more done tonight










 
  #32  
Old 04-08-2016, 08:00 PM
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Hopefully 3 weeks until a video on the test stand.









 
  #33  
Old 04-15-2016, 11:11 PM
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Here's the frame after I pulled the radiator support.














Looks like I'm going to be jacking the truck up, pulling the front hangar and doing a fix. I really don't trust that piece of angle iron bolted to the frame with 2 7/16" bolts.
I ran down to the steel yard and picked up a bunch of stuff. Some square tubing to rig up an engine test stand, some thick round tubing to reinforce the tailgate and a plate to fix the frame. Not happy about the hack job. The crap PO's do to these trucks. I honestly wouldn't of tried to fix this truck if it wasn't for FTE. My brain is happy not so much the wallet.
 
  #34  
Old 04-16-2016, 06:49 PM
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Busy day. Welded up the base of the engine test stand and radiator support. Found a crack in the frame and welded that. Our goat gave birth and I got the engine out of the truck finally.
 
  #35  
Old 04-18-2016, 07:50 AM
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The 351M is out. I told a member here that they could have the exhaust manifolds, forgot the name PM me if you're still following this and want them.
But any parts off the 351M or NP435 let me know. I will no longer need them nor the clutch linkage. Things that are good on the 351M that are worth selling are the aftermarket valve covers and edelbrock performer intake manifold. Anything else is free minus shipping just let me know what you need.


This week I will order the JBG mounts for the 460 and probably Sunday will get it close to mounted on the test stand..
Progress is at a stand still right now. Parts right now required:
L&L headers and the rest of the exhaust
Water Pump
Oil pressure sending unit
Cross Flow Radiator w/ electric fans (mines down flow)
Gauges. Oil pressure, tach, water temp
Clutch
Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder


Things to do:
Remove old NP435 and NP205. Put new seals in the NP205 and mount onto the ZF5
Figure out what year ZF5 I have so I can order the correct parts
Possibly pull the cab off (mostlikely will do that) fix the floors and install the new seat
Pull the bed and do some preventative rust protection and install the 38gal tank
Paint the parts of the frame I can.
I need to pull the front spring hangar on the passenger side so I can finish that frame fix and reinforce the area that the radiator mount sits on, its thin and sharp.
While I have the cab repositioned I will re-do the brake lines and fuel line and do what chassis wiring I can do. The weather should be great this week and right now I have no flights scheduled. We will see how much work I can get done.


Bring on the caffeine
 
  #36  
Old 04-19-2016, 11:21 PM
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2 things about the zf, 1 is that youll need to reinforce your firewall where you mount the master cylinder and the other is that your floor pan where your shifter comes out will need to be modified. The transmission mount xmember may have to be relocated an inch or so back. Hope you enjoyed grinding off the rivets on the driver side motor mount. Just did my 89 frame 351w and put in the 88 frames 460 mounts, now I have to reshape the crossmember to clear the oil cooler style oil filter mount. Motors used to be so easy to change LOL.
 
  #37  
Old 04-21-2016, 10:37 AM
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Question Time:


Just realized my trick flow valve covers have NO breather ports on these.. As far as I know on a street truck that's sorta 'required' if I don't want to start leaking oil out of the weakest gasket.....


Should I drill a 1/2" or 3/4" hole in the rear portion of the covers, put a fitting on it where it will not contact any moving parts then connect the two sides up to a common breather filter? or one having an filtered atmosphere element and one going into the carb?
 
  #38  
Old 04-22-2016, 09:09 AM
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Engine mounts are ordered. Excited for them to arrive
 
  #39  
Old 04-25-2016, 05:49 PM
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Bronco graveyard heavy duty. First thoughts, they could have been built better. Sorta disappointed. The bolt to frame isn't welded all the way. I honestly expected more for the price.












 
  #40  
Old 04-26-2016, 08:30 PM
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I didn't install the oil pump driveshaft when I put the pump in. I needed to pull the pan regardless on order to add silicon to the gasket mating surfaces.
Pulled the oil pan, then the pump. Installed driveshaft added small dabs of RTV installed the pump. Now to the problem...
It seems like my 351M distributor will not fit over the pump driveshaft. When compairing the 460EFI distributor to the 351M distributor it seems the 460 drive end is slightly larger. Wondering if NumberDummy 77&79 or somebody else can chime in on this one.
I have read many places the distributors are a direct swap. Tomorrow I will try a different tooth on the dust. cam gear I just realized it could be one flat off. That could easily be the fix..... I will ultimately need to pull the distributor off one more time to prime the engine.

Also I figured out the Trick Flow valve cover oil fill issue. I just need to drill a hole and install a grommet and fill port.... I read on 460ford to ensure the hole is inbetween two rockers to ensure the breather/ cap does not get oil soaked[/U]
Thanks for the help
 
  #41  
Old 05-02-2016, 08:34 PM
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Got the engine test stand welded up and test fit the engine in it. I made it too wide, it doesn't fit all the way into the engine hoist. It shouldn't be a problem.










I have a little more painting to do. Last week I prime red the engine mounts. Still waiting for a few more pay checks to order the rest of the parts.
 
  #42  
Old 05-03-2016, 07:18 PM
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Have I mentioned that corrosion and previous owners suck. This guy could have fixed it correctly but no. The PO laid sheet metal over the rust, put seam sealer on the seam and machine screwed it down. Ladies and gentleman I present how much work it ahead of me.




















 
  #43  
Old 05-04-2016, 08:54 AM
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Looking for suggestions on repairing the floor where I cannot get reproduction panels. I have not done any detailed repair like this. Where I cut at the rear of the cab its before the back and bottom were welded together so there is a gap. How would you approach that repair? I have been looking for clean cabs on searchtempest with no luck. I can't really travel either because the truck has no floors etc.
It looks like I will be replacing the front cab mounts with ones from LMC/rockauto/JBG. I am already in pretty deep with the cab, I don't want to keep these shotty repairs.


So: Suggestions for the floor repair. Should I add any extra bracing? Also I do not own a bead roller, brake, English wheel etc etc what tricks are available to strengthen a flat sheet of steel?


Thanks!
 
  #44  
Old 05-06-2016, 08:26 AM
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Replacement floor pans and cab mounts should arrive Monday along with new oil pan bolts. The used pan I have has a dent in it right near the drain bolt. Its starting to leak the 1QT of break in oil that's in there. Gotta pull it and bang that dent out.
Mondays weather looks good hopefully I get more than 1/2 the floor in. I order the waterpump, alternator and lots of other tid bits. Still need to strip and paint the front frame with POR15. Hope to start the wiring soon!!! I will try and take detailed pics and write up for the universal harness from Painless.
 
  #45  
Old 05-06-2016, 11:00 AM
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Good job so far, I've been following your post seeing we both live in the same state. And yea, the weather has been bad for wrenching lately.
 


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