When I'm on the highway the tick will not go away! And it only misfires if I've need driving on the highway for more than an hour, which I try to avoid but I have to get to work!, I know I'm being very difficult. I'm sorry! If I could pay you for your help I would!! All I can say is thanks!!

 

I just finished listening to the audio down loads & your right, there is a distinct difference in noise level, but I also noticed an Overall noise difference that makes me want to suspect an oil delivery problem to the top end, as all of the valves sound noisy/dry, with one being particularly noisy. Maybe the oil pump inlet screen is being restricted by, or is partially plugged by pan deposits being stirred up by the Frankenbrew solvents now in the crankcase. I'm thinking this based on what the top end deposits look like & the noise sounds, like the top end is dry & the difference between it really being noisy & sorta normal/noise coming & going & the top end deposits that look to be baked on from running too hot from a lack of flow that helps carry heat away & cool the valve train!!!! Oil also has the job of helping cool an engine, as well as lubricate it. So, if flow to the top end is restricted, it'll run hotter than designed for & can cook the oil.

When you changed the oil, did you notice any chunky deposits coming out??? How did the old oil look, feel, smell????

Cut the old oil filter open & inspect its filter media for debris.

Maybe consider changing the current oil filter right away & cutting it open for inspection too.

If you come to think, or know the oil pan is loaded with deposits, or the oil pump screen may be clogged, or partially clogged, consider removing the oil pressure sender & attach a mechanical oil pressure gauge & route it to the windshield wiper area & monitor pressure when its noisy, to see if its dropping. If so, consider dropping the oil pan to clean it & the oil pump screen. If you come to suspect, or know the pan is loaded with deposits, or the oil pump intake screen is clogged, I'd consider dropping the pan & cleaning it & the pump screen without delay.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

Did you check the oil pressure with an actual gauge? The inside of the engine is cruddy for sure. Frankly I'd drop the oil pan and take a look, it may be way worse than whats under the valve covers.

When I bought my 74' F100 it had a sticky lifter at startup, primarily in colder weather. The truck had 45k original miles on it when I got it so I figured it was gummed up from sitting. I tried all kinds of additives and none did anything noticeable. I just decided to go with a synthetic 10w30 at 3k miles intervals and run it. The more I ran the engine the less it ticked. Looking back I should probably have run a diesel oil like 5w40 in it due to being better at cleaning than most other oils.

 

The only oil pressure gauge I've been using is the one on the dash and it doesn't seem to be fluctuating at all, with or with out a tick. When I flushed it with trans fluid it came out clean with no chunks or small particals that I could see. I have already thrown away the old filter. But I will defiantly cut this one open after my next oil change. And I have thought about using a diesel oil with no additives, but I was unsure about it. I can't imagine there being that much gunk in the pan because I would have seen some drain out, but I will drop the pan somtime this week to know for sure. I'm beginning to think the engine needs to be torn down and what evers broken weather it's a lifter or not, just needs to be replaced. But if that's the case I think it would be more of a constant thing. This is driving me crazy!!!

 

Just looking at the valve cover deposits, as I posted earlier it looks like a under layer of varnish deposits, covered with baked on carbon, so it wouldn't surprise me for you to find gum, or varnish on the valve stems & lifters & a compacted layer of carbon grains in the oil pan that look like the black top end deposits, maybe topped with some softer black sludge that may be moving around & getting sucked up into the oil pump screen & stopping it up enough to cut oil flow & drop pressure, or flow rate to the top end & reduced pressure & flow rate, along with lifter & or valve stem gum or varnish deposits, all teaming up to cause it to be noisy from time to time.
It's been a while since I've seen a top end looking like this, but back in the 40's & 50's it wasn't uncommon at all, with the low quality oil we had back then. The valve cover deposits suggest a too long oci for the service this engine was seeing & or a lower service grade oil was being used with too long a oci.
Good idea to drop the pan & open this oil filter to have a look inside. Too bad the other one is history, it likely had a story to tell.
The high mileage Pennzoil you have in there now has a good detergent ad pack, so that along with the qt of Marvel Oil that's also in there & you may begin to hear some difference soon.

 

Ford is known for putting very poor factory gauges on their vehicles. Usually they are idiot lights that show when the oil pressure gets lower than 5 or 10 psi. I'd put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it and see what the oil pressure is, especially when it starts tapping.

A 5w40 diesel oil would most likely run fine in your engine. Don't know what your climate is like.

Obviously the best thing to do would be to tear the engine down and freshen it up. However if money is tight and you need the vehicle that is always not the most feasible option.

 

BUMP:
Well Chris how is it going, curious minds would like to know.

 

The tick has not changed and I feel it miss fire alot more often. It also started leaking oil, looks like the rear main. That's probably from me putting crap in the oil and the trans fluid. the plan was to replace/inspect lifters/heads today but I found a potential buyer. I'm meeting him today if I can get this truck off my hands I will. If it doesn't sell today I'm pulling the heads

 

OK, let us know how it goes. If the tic/miss hasn't gotten better by now, its not as likely to be gum, or varnish causing a lifter or valve to stick, or I'd think the Marvel oil & Pennzoil ad pack would have gotten after the lighter, easier to dissolve gum, sludge or varnish deposits by now & made some kind of positive noticeable change.

 

BUMP:
Well Chris how's the 3.0L engine resurrection going? You still tinkering with it, or did you sell it, curious minds would like to know.

 

Are we talking 3.0 Vulcan? If so I am familiar with this myself but only in a Vulcan.

Forget it. I was going on pawpaw's comment above saying 3.0L. Valve train pictures show this isn't a Vulcan.