1997-2006 Expedition & Navigator 1997 - 2002 and 2003 - 2006 Ford Expedition and Lincoln Navigator Discussion

Part 1/2: FAQ: How to Change Oil/Install a FRAM SureDrain Oil Pan Valve

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Old 03-15-2004, 01:03 PM
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Part 1/2: FAQ: How to Change Oil/Install a FRAM SureDrain Oil Pan Valve

Please Note: This is Part 1 of 2 (Due to limits of post length) and will cover only what you'll need and preliminary information. Part 2 will cover the steps, and notes.

How to Change Oil and Install a FRAM SureDrain Oil Pan Valve - What You'll Need

This information refers to a 2001 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4L, 4WD (4R100 Tranny) with rear heat. I hope this helps with the contruction of the FAQ and provides users some info on one of the very basic maintenance activities.

You'll Need (cost estimates from mainly Wal-Mart):

- 6 quarts of your new oil (see below; ~$4/quart for Mobile1 Synthetic 0W-20)
- Socket or wrench for the oil plug
- Socket or Wrench for the SureDrain Valve install
- Oil Filter (see below; ~$2.50)
- Oil filter wrench (the type that is a padded band of steel; ~$2.00)
- Shop rag(s)
- Oil collection bucket (at least 6-7 qts. size, ~$6.00)
- FRAM SureDRAIN Oil Pan Valve (Model SD-2; ~$14.00)

Costs:
First Time: ~$48.50
Second Time: Mobile1: $26.50 (MotorCraft 5W-20: $13.00)

Ford recommends the MC 5W-20 oil changed every 5000 miles. This is half as often as I changed the oil on the 150K mile explorer. I plan on changing the Mobil1 every 5000 miles, while I get an idea of how well the oil wears with my driving…I might ad a 1000 miles if the oil looks very good (synthetics should last longer); but I want to balance that with the need to remove contaminants from the o engine. If I switch to MotorCraft 5W-20, then I would change religiously every 4000-5000 miles with regular driving, and religiously at 3000 if I am taking a trip or towing my trailer. Right now I am spending the same amount of money on oil changes as I did on my Explorer, but I get to use Mobil1 because I will likely keep it in the system twice as long. These are my thoughts, read the boards to formulate your own.

6 quarts of your new oil (see below; ~$4/quart for Mobile1 Synthetic 0W-20)
I decided to run with Mobil1 Synthetic (0w-20) as I feel it best matches the Ford requirement of 5W-20 (it says it is specially formulated fro Ford 5W-20 requirements); check the boards for other Mobil1 grades.
My next choice (and one I may use during the summer; more driving, more oil changes; cheaper) would be MotorCraft 5W-20 (also at Wal-Mart)
Thirdly, I would select a Castrol product, likely their synthetic (good reviews on the boards, good oil)
You'll need 6 qts

Socket or Wrench for the oil plug/Valve Install
Get a socket wrench or open ended wrench for removing the plug…you will also need a larger size for inserting the oil drain valve. I decided to get the oil drain valve to make oil changes easier when I do them. The valve replaces the oil pan plug. When I want to change the oil I remove a simple hand-tighten cap; the kit comes with a ~8" tube that screws on to this to this valve; when you twist the tube the last two turns it opens the flow of oil through the tube…less mess, better control on where the oil goes. I bought it at Checker, but I see them at Wal-Mart ~$14 here is the link for more info (http://www.fram.com/)
My vehicle takes the SD-2 model

Oil Filter (~$2.50)
The decision for the filter is an easy one (MotorCraft FL-820-S (check for your vehicle)). If I didn't have that available to me I would go with Purolator Pure One, or WIX, or Mobil1 or CarQuest (actually a WIX). You can search and read more if you can't decide. The Ford filter is a very good filter

Oil Filter Wrench (the type that is a padded band of steel; ~$2.00)
Luckily I grabbed the right wrench at Wal-Mart (the trusted padded band of steel). this wrench gets tighter as you rotate it, flip it around for the other direction, very cheap; and the handle rotates so you can find a position to move the filter. The quarters are tight, but I am big handed and faired OK; I expected a lot worse.

Shop Rag(s)
You have a rag bag of old/throw-away clothes? the red rags? or fine linen should work…cotton absorbs oil better than polyester…the first time you do this you may need several when you mis- judge wear the oil will go coming out of the oil pan (DAMHIKT)

Oil collection bucket (9 qts, ~$6.00)
I got a cheap and simple unit from Wal-Mart. it has two holes for collecting oil and one cap for discharging it at Autozone/PepBoys oil recycling (you DO recycle don't you??!!) etc…I have to say, that I do not like it entirely well and may have to get another
Finer points of oil collection buckets…make sure it will hold the amount of fluids you expect it drain (6 qts)…the Wal-Mart design has the plugs in the bottom of the collection area. So even when it is plugged the area where the oil splashed is still wet and exposed. if you plug the container area after you have drained the oil to move the container, you will return 4 hours later and see more oil has fallen into the recessed plugs and covered or soiled them even more….Another design I saw at other stores has a 6" to 8" cap that covers the area where the oil would drain….there is a grating there so that filters can sit and drain, and you can't lose the oil pan plug. When you cover the drain area to store or bring to the recycle center the oily areas should be completely covered…I will likely replace with this.

FRAM SureDrain Oil Change Valve (Model SD-2; ~$14.00)
As mentioned above this valve should greatly increase the control of the oil coming out of the oil pan.

Be sure to read Part 2 of 2 for the Oil Change/FRAM SureDrain Install Instructions. Please comment if you see any errors.
 

Last edited by dalfollo; 03-15-2004 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 03-16-2004, 08:06 AM
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