1990 f250 5.8l barely idles and dies if trying hold at constant throttle?
#19
#23
There should be no adjustment required. The mounting holes are not slotted to adjust anything. If the closed throttle voltage (key on/engine off) is between 0.6 to 0.9 VDC. It's good. Slowly open the throttle and watch the voltage climb to ~4.5 to 5 VDC. If the voltage is off on either end or the output has dips/peaks it's bad, replace it.
Aftermarket TPSes are well known to suffer from poor quality control.
Aftermarket TPSes are well known to suffer from poor quality control.
#26
When you replaced it did you use a motorcraft part? Those values look low on both ends. If you read the link above there is a way to dial in the initial voltage. I would do that before ordering a new part.
There are only 3 things on these trucks I recommend motorcraft original parts for - TPS, VSS and PCV valve. For whatever reason, aftermarket parts for those tend to be wonky.
There are only 3 things on these trucks I recommend motorcraft original parts for - TPS, VSS and PCV valve. For whatever reason, aftermarket parts for those tend to be wonky.
#27
While those reading are low that might be due to margin of error in your meter added to any connection issues between the meter and pins.
As Randy mentioned there is no adjustment for the TPS, if you do remove it I'd replace it. Its not a five minute task on the 5.8L the throttle body has to be removed to change it. Then use caution when attempting to remove the screws, two dissimilar metals tend to corrode over time in the right environment resulting in the screws breaking off rather than coming loose.
And yea your fuel pressure is a little below spec, enough to cause your issues? maybe not but doesn't help.
What do the plugs look like after being run a short time? What does the exhaust look and smell like when you're trying to throttle it up?
Showing some black smoke? or?
I'd temperately block off the EGR valve, take it out of the equation for a moment and see what that does for how it runs. Loosen then remove the compression nut on the tube coming up from the manifold, drop an appropriate sized coin into the nut then snug the tube back up to the valve, just snug will work no need to crank it down tight.
Might be enough to simply pull its vac line and plug it, plug the vac line not the nipple on the valve. Perhaps you have the vac routing wrong so its open the moment the engine starts.
Sounds more like a MAP sensor type issue to me over any problem with the TPS even the EGR but would like to hear what effect if any blocking the EGR valve has, and what the plugs/exhaust looks like before making furthers speculation/suggestions.
Unplug the MAP sensors electrical connector leaving the vac line on it, if everything else is as it should be and it is the problem it will start and run normally, you will be able to throttle it up some.
And if hasn't been done pull the codes running the self test would be a good idea.
As Randy mentioned there is no adjustment for the TPS, if you do remove it I'd replace it. Its not a five minute task on the 5.8L the throttle body has to be removed to change it. Then use caution when attempting to remove the screws, two dissimilar metals tend to corrode over time in the right environment resulting in the screws breaking off rather than coming loose.
And yea your fuel pressure is a little below spec, enough to cause your issues? maybe not but doesn't help.
What do the plugs look like after being run a short time? What does the exhaust look and smell like when you're trying to throttle it up?
Showing some black smoke? or?
I'd temperately block off the EGR valve, take it out of the equation for a moment and see what that does for how it runs. Loosen then remove the compression nut on the tube coming up from the manifold, drop an appropriate sized coin into the nut then snug the tube back up to the valve, just snug will work no need to crank it down tight.
Might be enough to simply pull its vac line and plug it, plug the vac line not the nipple on the valve. Perhaps you have the vac routing wrong so its open the moment the engine starts.
Sounds more like a MAP sensor type issue to me over any problem with the TPS even the EGR but would like to hear what effect if any blocking the EGR valve has, and what the plugs/exhaust looks like before making furthers speculation/suggestions.
Unplug the MAP sensors electrical connector leaving the vac line on it, if everything else is as it should be and it is the problem it will start and run normally, you will be able to throttle it up some.
And if hasn't been done pull the codes running the self test would be a good idea.
#29