1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

camber adjustment on 2004 E350

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  #16  
Old 02-08-2016, 11:28 PM
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@Tabijan,

The ball joint procedure is identical with the E350 with the exception of everything being heavier. A few extra bolts here and there. I am borrowing the ball joint press from AutoZone. Did you have to use an impact wrench with the ball joint press or were you able to muscle it?

We should connect sometime. If you ever need some help with your van doing some heavy lifting, I live in Fremont. I have Fridays off.
 
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Old 02-09-2016, 02:18 PM
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Camber adjustment determination

After watching several videos on YouTube, I determined that the camber sleeve in my E350 is 1.5 degrees. I has 1:30 printed on it and that means 1 degree, 30 minutes or 1.5.






The camber was off by -.9 on the left and -.7 on the right side. The spec is 0.0 to 1.0 degrees. I plan on marking the alignment spot on the steering knuckle with either a punch or a black Sharpie.

Should I re use this sleeve or purchase new sleeves for each side? I need at least .9 to bring it back into spec. Does this mean I add .9 & .7 to the installed 1.5 sleeve making it approximately 2.5?

New ball joints might make a difference in the alignment. Maybe enough to bring it back into spec.

I stripped everything off the steering knuckle last and will remove the ball joints Thursday night.
 
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:42 PM
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Ready for Moog ball joint removal and installation

I have almost everything ready for the front end job on my van. Here is a partial list of tools and replacement parts:

Moog upper and lower ball joints.
Napa Ultra premium brake pads.
AC Delco Advantage rotors.
Timken wheel bears.
Ball joint press from Auto Zone.
Torque wrench from Auto Zone.
Mendocino Eye Of The Hawk Ale from Trader Joes.


 
  #19  
Old 02-11-2016, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by coolfeet
Mendocino Eye Of The Hawk Ale from Trader Joes.

You're well on your way to the true DIY drive way mechanic!

I wasn't going to comment on your camber bushings issue, waited to make sure you'd change the ball joints before attempting any sort of alignment. Its nearly impossible getting good results if the ball joints are beginning to show wear or looseness.

The ball joint press is about as easy a tool to use there is----my mechanic replaces at least one set every week, does it all pretty much on the ground or any hard flat relatively clean and dry surface.

Once you're done you'll chuckle to yourself how uncomplex it really is. Looks far more daunting to the first timer-------you'll do fine I'm sure.

I'd be interested how the AC Delco rotors hold up over time. When swapping to the '08 E250 upgrade a nearly new set of OEM rotors were used (less than 100 miles on them) and as said earlier the NAPA Ultra Premium pads haven't worn more than 1/16" max away after 40K miles.

Let us know how this goes Coolfeet!
 
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:06 AM
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The ball joint press from Autozone is brand new. I don't think it's going to be too hard. 18 months ago, my buddy engineer Dan removed and replaced the ball joints in my E150 van and his E350 van with a hydraulic press. We did both vans in one night! It was nice to have a real shop to work in. However, we both had our trucks apart and had no way to return home until the trucks were complete. We did not finish until nearly 3 AM!

It's nice to have the luxury of working in the parking lot of my condo and spending time with my boys. I have a refrigerator full of food, a clean bathroom, and I can hop onto my computer anytime I have a problem to post it on this forum with replies coming almost instantly.

JWA, I bought the AC Delco rotors as they are what's stocked at our local auto supply that are supposed to be FORD OEM spec'd. Amazon had them on sale for half price compared to the local parts supply.

The Mendocino Ale is my reward for hard work. My buddy and I usually take a break halfway through the job and grill burgers and drink a beer. Then the wives start calling around mid night asking when we are coming home. The answer is always the same "When we are done." It's not like we can leave with 2 wheels pull off.
 
  #21  
Old 02-12-2016, 09:29 AM
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Your past experience will prove to be invaluable for all this I'm sure!

Been more than a few times I've done close to all nighters when working on my only transportation after hours or away from home. It does create a sense of urgency to finish----most times it all seems to literally fall together like it was meant to be.

Working with the younger ones around gives them a huge knowledge base to work from later in life. In my own case my dad's income dictated many a street-side auto repair, on a good day we could find a dirt or gravel parking lot as a temporary shop. Seeing how he could improvise and "problem solve" on the spot were lessons I've never forgotten since. Depending on their age you can talk them through the process, they'll never forget the lessons or the time spent together doing "man things"--- somewhat lacking these days sad to say for the younger ones.

If nothing else have one of them being your staff photographer!

Let us know how this goes CoolFeet!
 
  #22  
Old 02-12-2016, 09:37 AM
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@JWA, I agree about the learning experience. My father did not earn much in the early part of his life. We were more or less forced to assist him in auto repair which usually happened in the dead of winter in Minnesota. Doing brake jobs in -30 was not my idea of fun.

I encourage my boys to hang out and hand me tools. I never force them unless I really need a brake bleeder foot and they love sitting in the driver seat.

I remind them I am willing to teach them auto repair because both are close to the driving age. I told them I will be available to help repair their vehicles-however, if they don't learn now, they will have to learn when their own vehicles break down.

My oldest assembles the parts for me, reads the Ford Shop Manual. Last year, he and my buddy engineer Dan traced the schematics to wire the dual battery system in the van.

We home school our boys and auto repair is one of many life skills they are learning. The oldest wants to apprentice with my friend that owns a plumbing company. He realized quickly to learn a skill that is in demand. However, he would rather own the company than be the laborer.
 
  #23  
Old 02-12-2016, 09:42 AM
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Last night I bought a 3 pound mallet to pop the lower ball joint off the steering knuckle. After a dozen pops, it still was stuck. I put a block of wood under the ball joint stud and gave it a gentle "Whack" and it popped right off.





I don't have the 30 mm socket to remove the castle nut off the lower ball joint. Time to go to Sears or Home Depot for some large sockets. This is the time I wish the Snap On truck stopped in my complex.

If my ball joints feel firm, should I still replace them? I am no cheap skate. I will keep the ball joints in storage shed for future use as they are the same size as my Ford E150 van.

On the other hand, if I am pound penny wise and pound foolish, I will R&R the ball joints. I bought 3 of them from Amazon Warehouse deals and 1 at full price. Spent less than $100 including tax for all. Cost of tools will be about the same as I needed some new sockets. Harbor Freight has their 3 ton jack on sale for $69 today which I plan to pick up. I have an old 2 ton that barely gets this rig off the ground. I am ultra careful when I jack up vehicles. I always stick a tire under the vehicle.

What is the sequence for ball joint extraction and replacement? I.E. upper first, lower second? I don't want to find myself stuck like a stupid amateur tiler and get stuck in a corner.
 
  #24  
Old 02-12-2016, 12:50 PM
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After dropping the steering knuckle, I inspected the upper ball joint and it's toast! JWA, you are the man! What if I would have kept the old ball joints in and installed the camber kit? My alignment would still be messed up.

I attempted to press the ball joints out without a vice. It's doable, but I value my time and back. My local mechanic initially said "no" because he does not like working on heavy stuff-he is almost 60. I told him I have everything removed and will bring him the steering knuckle. He was very happy about not having to break everything down.
 
  #25  
Old 02-12-2016, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by coolfeet

I don't have the 30 mm socket to remove the castle nut off the lower ball joint. Time to go to Sears or Home Depot for some large sockets. This is the time I wish the Snap On truck stopped in my complex.
You can buy Snap On tools direct from their site for the same money a franchised dealer charges----free shipping under $500. You can also search for a Wright brand tool (USA made) through eBay or Amazon, probably less money but same quality.

Originally Posted by coolfeet
If my ball joints feel firm, should I still replace them?
Yes----you can NOT tell by hand their condition for the most part. If they're so worn you could feel the slop when uninstalled that's one thing----feeling firm when off the van isn't a reliable test. Change 'em----you've got 'em and there's no value in going through all this only to have it become an issue some time in the near future.



Originally Posted by coolfeet
What is the sequence for ball joint extraction and replacement? I.E. upper first, lower second? I don't want to find myself stuck like a stupid amateur tiler and get stuck in a corner.
There's no set way to do this unless your ball joint press has issues with one being in the way while trying to extract the other. Here's a few photos of mine being changed, 2003 E250:
















Comparing these images to your knuckles should be helpful. Let me know if you need other views---I have close to 100 of this being done along with upgrading my brakes to '08 parts.
 
  #26  
Old 02-12-2016, 08:58 PM
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The second ball took 40 minutes from tire removal to ball joint install. Second time around was so easy. The passenger side upper ball joint was toast. So glad that JWA and other folks said to remove and replace the ball joints.

When I got back home from the shop, I noticed my threads on the ball joint got knicked. The castle nut will not go all the way down. I will try to file the threads enough to get the castle nut on.

My mechanic let me use his shop. I am going to buy him a Whole Foods gift card. We had fun hanging out. He turned 61 and almost died 3 years ago. He changed his diet and started exercising and looks better than when I met him 20 years ago.

the AutoZone ball joint press did not have a large enough sleeve to clear the ball joint stud. I think this is what caused the thread to get knicked on the install. We improvised with a large socket.

Even if I have to buy another ball joint for $27, I am way ahead of the game. $400 for new brakes, rotors, wheel bearings, and ball joints.

I broke the seal when removing the tie with the mallet. Are these seals replaceable? It's the small inner tie rod. I can get a new one for $25. If I replace it, then I will do the drag link and other long tie rod.
 
  #27  
Old 02-12-2016, 09:14 PM
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@JWA, thanks for the photos. I am a visual person.

It was so hard to turn the ball joint press by hand. Tweaked my back a little. My mechanic used an air impact tool and a hydraulic pres.
 
  #28  
Old 02-13-2016, 12:45 AM
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I took a 4 hour break after discovering the threads were nicked. My boys and I watched an episode of Agents Of Shield and another of Merlin. I was too tired to cook so I went to Whole Foods and and bought 2 roasted rotisserie chickens, 4 bags of corn tortillas, and head of red leaf lettuce. My wife is in the Philippines taking care of her father and enjoying some quality time with her brother, cousins, and relatives. I am cook, chauffeur, and playmate of my 2 boys.

At 10 PM, I sat down and cleaned the threads with a file, magnifying glass, and flashlight. After 5 minutes of work, I reinstalled the steering knuckle and called it a night. Tomorrow, I will pack the bearings in the new rotor, install brake shoes, and put this truck on the road!

I still need to repair or replace the broken tie rod boot. In another year, I know I will be looking at the tie rods and thinking they should be replaced too...
 
  #29  
Old 02-13-2016, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by coolfeet
I took a 4 hour break after discovering the threads were nicked. My boys and I watched an episode of Agents Of Shield and another of Merlin. I am cook, chauffeur, and playmate of my 2 boys.
Not sure about you or your boys but personally I'm a HUGE fan of Skye---her and Melinda May too. They remind me of Ms Emma Peel from The Avengers, British action/drama of the 60's. Gorgeous women that can and do kick ***---in form-fitting leather body suits and heels!

You're doing good work with the boys----life-long lessons they'll remember forever.

Originally Posted by coolfeet
I still need to repair or replace the broken tie rod boot. In another year, I know I will be looking at the tie rods and thinking they should be replaced too...
I'm sure someone sells just replacement boots, perhaps Dorman etc---maybe check around the local AutoZone's etc for temporary new ones until next year. Those tend to be very important for longevity of the joints so always good to keep them weatherproof.

Also glad you swapped out those joints---you'd hate yourself later on looking at them sitting on the shelf, saying "Woe is me---should have installed them.............."

Keep us up to date on your progress----interested to know how the alignment turns out.
 
  #30  
Old 02-13-2016, 10:19 AM
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coolfeet, do you have something like this in Fremont - Pit Row ? I'm glad the job's done but if you were working today (Saturday) I could have come over to kibitz.

JWA, I think there is an order to doing things with a press like in your pictures. You need the lower ball joint out of the way for the upper ball joint receiver and so you can run the press screw through the lower hole to seat the upper ball joint.

Do they sell knuckles complete with ball joints?

Sixto
93 E150 Chateau 5.8 194K miles
 


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