1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Welding 101

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  #16  
Old 01-27-2016, 05:35 PM
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If you have 240v available definitely go that way. I messed around with the little 110v welders.... Eventually you will weld bigger stuff. You will save money in the long run if you buy a bigger welder now. That's just my opinion.

Currently have a Miller 190. Very happy with it. I can weld sheet metal fine, or up to 5/16" with gas. Buy what you can afford. Definitely go with a MIG for your first welder.


 
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Old 01-27-2016, 07:04 PM
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FYI- with the new technology welders, if you can afford them, they work very well with 120v
 
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Old 01-27-2016, 08:33 PM
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Follow Ax's tutorial. That's all you need to know. Been welding for many years and learned a lot from it. I've been using a Miller 220v Mig with Argon/Co2 gas. Works for everything from chassis to sheet metal.
 
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Old 01-27-2016, 10:42 PM
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I've got the Eastwood MIG175 and love it. Have welded in my IFS, did frame work and welded a fair amount of sheet metal (a LOT more to go yet). Have yet to try welding aluminum (it comes with an aluminum gun) but I am looking forward to that day.
 
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Old 01-28-2016, 12:45 AM
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I went through university to be a shop teacher for all disciplines, so we learned every type of welding (and on good machines helped). Last year got myself a Lincoln 210 MP. It's dual voltage and will do MIG (incl optional spool gun)/ stick/ DC TIG. Super little unit to grow into, and have really simplified the use with their digital setup. Done both heavy frame welding (patches) and bodywork.
Just my 0.016 cents (exchange is just killing us up here).
 
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:32 AM
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Welding 101

Thanks guys for all your great input..that's why I love this site!

Never say never but this is probably my first and last restoration because I have many other things on my bucket list and at 66 years old not sure I'll have enough time to get to all of them. When I'm done with my '48 I think I'll just have fun driving it. That said, I think I'll look into the budget minded welding machines since it may be the only time I'll get to use it. In fact may even check out Craigs list for a used one. I'll keep pics coming on my progress and

I'm sure I'll be back looking for more advice as I move forward..
Hope I remember how everything goes back together. Lol
 
  #22  
Old 01-28-2016, 01:55 PM
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Unless you find a new technology one at a smokin price don't waste your money on a used older transformer machine. The new inverter tech machines are much smaller, lighter, draw less juice and the transformer machines were so expensive when new that people selling them are often wanting more than a new machine costs. The prices have been consistently dropping on the new machines as volume ramps up. I've been using a Hobart 140 115V machine in my own shop (bought before Eastwood started selling theirs for 1/2 what I paid for the hobart) for 10 years now, and haven't found anything I needed to weld that it couldn't handle. I have a tombstone style AC stick welding machine tucked away in a corner in case that day ever comes, but it hasn't been turned on since I got the Hobart. It easily handles 1/4" (every novice panics that they need a huge machine to weld on a frame, but frames are typically but 1/8" thick, well within the range of my machine!) and if used correctly with proper preparation tricks it will handle much more. For example I make special tool rests for my wood lathe, welding 1/4" strap or angle to 3/4" solid round bar stock with mine. Also don't buy a cheap wire feed unit from places like Harbor Freight. Make sure whatever you get uses/comes with shielding gas capability. Easy to determine, by it including a gas regulator in the package.
 
  #23  
Old 01-28-2016, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by AXracer
Unless you find a new technology one at a smokin price don't waste your money on a used older transformer machine. The new inverter tech machines are much smaller, lighter, draw less juice and the transformer machines were so expensive when new that people selling them are often wanting more than a new machine costs. The prices have been consistently dropping on the new machines as volume ramps up. I've been using a Hobart 140 115V machine in my own shop (bought before Eastwood started selling theirs for 1/2 what I paid for the hobart) for 10 years now, and haven't found anything I needed to weld that it couldn't handle. I have a tombstone style AC stick welding machine tucked away in a corner in case that day ever comes, but it hasn't been turned on since I got the Hobart. It easily handles 1/4" (every novice panics that they need a huge machine to weld on a frame, but frames are typically but 1/8" thick, well within the range of my machine!) and if used correctly with proper preparation tricks it will handle much more. For example I make special tool rests for my wood lathe, welding 1/4" strap or angle to 3/4" solid round bar stock with mine. Also don't buy a cheap wire feed unit from places like Harbor Freight. Make sure whatever you get uses/comes with shielding gas capability. Easy to determine, by it including a gas regulator in the package.
Easily handles 1/4" ???? Preheating to 350+ degrees and beveling the edge it might do it

Do you have a 30 amp outlet? Most homes are 15-20
 
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by c91x
Easily handles 1/4" ???? Preheating to 350+ degrees and beveling the edge it might do it

Do you have a 30 amp outlet? Most homes are 15-20

I have the Hobart 140 and feel comfortable welding 1/8 metal. I have read articles (unverified) that this particular machine could weld 1/4 if you made multiple passes, preheated, used flux wire, beveled edges, clean metal, etc.. however the majority advised against it. They would all opt for a more powerful machine, such as a 220v unit.

F1, I kind of wish now that I spent the extra money back when shopping for a welder to get a more powerful machine than the 140. I was actually thinking of selling to do so.... Good luck, there is a lot of info in this thread to help you make your own decision.
 
  #25  
Old 01-28-2016, 05:12 PM
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Call me set in my ways, but if I need to do anything over ~1/8", I fire up the stick welder. I have a 230 amp (AC)/140 amp (DC) Craftsman that plows thru heavy stuff. $75 off CL many years ago. A lot quicker to change rods and settings than mess with different spools.
 
  #26  
Old 01-28-2016, 10:59 PM
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I use a 110V 140 amp Longevity welder for my sheet metal work and a 220V 175 amp Eastwood unit for anything larger than 1/8". Both units work well in my estimation. Both units are capable of welding aluminum using a spool gun which comes with the Eastwood unit. The Eastwood 135amp unit cannot.
 
  #27  
Old 01-29-2016, 09:27 AM
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Yes, welding 1/4" with the Hobart 140 does take special joint prep and multipass welding technique, but I do it regularly. I make custom tool rests for my wood late and T stakes for metal shaping welding 1/4" strap or angle iron to 5/8" or 1" solid rod. It's not the ideal machine for the job, but I'm not building heavy equipment with it, and I didn't have 220 available when I bought it. No I do not have 30A outlets, I have 20A 115V outlets all around the shop. The Hobart machine is not wired to plug into a 30A outlet and can be used on a 15A service according to Hobart's specs. I now have 220 in my shop, and if I was buying today I would probably buy the Eastwood 175. or their 200 TIG machine. I do have a tombstone AC stick welder sitting in the corner if I ever need to weld larger stuff, but it hasn't been turned on in the last 10 years.
The Longevity and AHC macine may be fine machines, but I won't recommend a machine I have not used. I google mapped their headquarters locations, and Longevity is in the back of an office park, and AHC is a residence, which doesn't give me very warm feelings about future support on those machines.
 
  #28  
Old 01-29-2016, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by AXracer
Yes, welding 1/4" with the Hobart 140 does take special joint prep and multipass welding technique (cold lap), but I do it regularly. I make custom tool rests for my wood late and T stakes for metal shaping welding 1/4" strap or angle iron to 5/8" or 1" solid rod. It's not the ideal machine for the job, but I'm not building heavy equipment with it, and I didn't have 220 available when I bought it. No I do not have 30A outlets, I have 20A 115V outlets all around the shop. The Hobart machine is not wired to plug into a 30A outlet and can be used on a 15A service according to Hobart's specs. I now have 220 in my shop, and if I was buying today I would probably buy the Eastwood 175. or their 200 TIG machine. I do have a tombstone AC stick welder sitting in the corner if I ever need to weld larger stuff, but it hasn't been turned on in the last 10 years.
The Longevity and AHC macine (AHP) may be fine machines, but I won't recommend a machine I have not used (have you ever TIG welded?). I google mapped their headquarters locations, and Longevity is in the back of an office park, and AHC (AHP)is a residence, which doesn't give me very warm feelings about future support on those machines.Agreed I didn't like that part but after doing as much research as I could and watching sponsored welders from longevity and eastwood quit their sponsorship because they didn't want their name associated with them, Their funky foot pedal that doesn't make any sense (voltage adjust on the pedal what the??? I chose AHP and feel its the best option for the price. I just tell people to look at all the "budget" tig welder options
*Warranty is 3 years and they appear to be hassle free besides having to pay for shipping... Same as Eastwood but without all the DOA reviews

I have a 110v Lincoln.. I like it and i use it often but I don't tell people to weld suspension on with it or that it'll easily handle 1/4" plate because that's simply a lie. Cut open one of your welds and you'd be shocked at how shallow your penetration is. Thicker metal sucks heat away too fast so even if you can penetrate almost all the way through 1/8" with 1/4" you might get 1/16" penetration. I'd be leery driving next to you on the highway
 
  #29  
Old 01-29-2016, 01:28 PM
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I don't have a dog in this fight and don't always agree with AX, but per Hobart the 140 is rated up to 1/4". Yes, it will have a low duty cycle at that power but it is capable of doing it. The standard settings for 1/4" are in the area of 320/20 (IPM/V), depending on gas used and that machine has that capability. Whether you want to do it or not is up to you but if I was in the market for a good inexpensive mig for possibly one project as the OP said, I would look at buying a 140 amp machine, probably not Eastwood but a 140A machine.

Here is the specs straight from Hobart.
Hobart Welders - Products - Wire Feed Welders - Handler 140

The electric welders I personally have are a Lincoln SP125, Power Mig 255 and a Linde 250HF. I am considering upgrading the SP 125 to the MP 210, not because of lack of what it is capable of doing but for work outside the shop. I want the portability to Tig outside the shop on SS and steel for jobs.

I am not an "expert" but I have been welding for over 30 years and was certified when working as a millwright for a large corporation. If you know your limits you should be fine, more welds fail due to operator error than due to lack of the machines abilities.

Now can we get back to helping the Op instead of this BS about what welder does this and don't do that.

To the OP, for the job you are asking about doing I agree with some on here that a 135/140 machine (even something like my SP125) will do all you want to do. Do not use flux core for doing body work, yes it can be done but you won't like it. I see nothing wrong with a Craigslist welder, I have bought and sold there myself with no regrets. Take a friend who does weld to test the machine for you before you hand over your money.

Good luck on your welder search and your project.
 
  #30  
Old 01-29-2016, 09:39 PM
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welding 101

I look into a welding class here in Florida's Palm Beach County..they wanted $2300
 


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