ok so the spark plug tester came in the mail. We dested the coil on 30kv and it sparked, so we tested the numer 1 spark plug wire at 30kv also and it was sparking. The rotor buttun is not broken also, i have 3 and none of them work. So i think my timing is waaaay off from putting in new dizzy assembly, but ive already put it on TDC and aligned the dizzy to 1 and still it wont start.its getting plenty of feul and air, and it wont start when i spray starter fluid in it either

 

The Crank will line up at TDC twice in a 4 cycle revolution. Once when it's pushing the exhaust gas out, and once when it's compressing the air fuel mixture. You can remove the valve cover and watch when Cylinder 1 exhaust valve closes, Intake valve opens, and then go to TDC is really the best way I know of to be sure you are on TDC, and not 180 out. However, if you feel this may be the issue, then you could always take it to TDC with the rotor pointed to 1, and then go 180 degrees and put the distributor back in on 1 again. There may be a less confusing way to say that, but I can't think of it.

EDIT:
I also do not see where you posted your findings on fuel pressure. What is your fuel pressure at the rail?

 

As noted above, you are more than likely 180 degrees out of time. Very common mistake.

 

Sorry i havnt been on lately i just had to move so ive had a lot on my plate and been going to places to get a new job. So the mark im using for TDC is the little line on the camshaft pulley, not the big square/rectangle thats cut into it. Is there another little line it it for tdc and im using the wrong line or somthing? Im going to try and do the 180 like you said and see what that does it just seems so weird it was running good and broke down cause a bad distrubritor and went off 180 degrees. I got wire the other day when doing tdc with the little line and it was tdc and lined up on 0 but ima rotate it 180 to the next tdc and see

 

If you have a nice hot blue spark at the coil, but nothing at the plugs, it has to be some kind of severe timing issue.

 

I believe you meant the crankshaft pulley. I'd suspect it to look like one of the two in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/369926-best-timing.html

 

I do have spark at the plugs. I also tried to the 180 degrees off too and that didnt work. My crankshaft pulley is the one with Vs knocked out in it. I put it at TDC and at 1 plug and it does nothing. just keeps turning over but no start. It was running fine one day, has a hard shift going down the road then runs like **** after that, we take it to my house to mess with the timing but it gets to dark, but at the time it was still running. Next morning wont start at all and it did rain over the night and my hood was cracked open. Could rain have gotten to somthing? i already replaced the entire dist. assembly because the hall switch was bad, have a new coil. And have a new black little computer thing on the driver side fender. I think its called the spark advance computer? could it be a bad relay?

 

Or a bad computer?

 

Its also getting plenty of fuel. I took out the plugs when cheking the spark and they had fuel on them.

 

what happens when you set the distributor to 10* BTDC?

 

do i have 2 digit or 3 digit codes? its a 95

 

setting it to 10, its that 10 Vs before the big V in the cover? trying it now

 

At this point I'm thinking you either have bad fuel, or your crank pulley has slipped and your timing is off.

 

Have you pulled codes?

Have you tested fuel pressure?

I agree it still sounds like your timing is off., but those other tests don't take that much time, and it's good to always verify that you are on the right track.

At this point, you have pulled that distributor quite a few times. Pull the number 1 spark plug out. use a LONG ROD (wood or metal) I have an old radio antenna I use and thread it into cylinder 1. With the distributor out, watch the marks, and turn the engine by hand. When Cylinder 1 pushes the rod out, it's coming up on TDC. Once you hit TDC, drop the distributor back in. Line the rotor up just a little before cylinder 1 plug wire, drop the cap on, put the plug back in and try to start it.

This will determine if your crank pulley has slipped, that you are truly on TDC of cylinder one (though it doesn't tell us what stroke). Let us know what happens.

 

Ok so i pulled out the computer. It had a capacitor blown and all the traces around it where burnt and had a big block hole in the computer. i just got a new computer and here are the new codes.
11,66,36,11,41,16,63,61,14
14- i just replaced my PIP sensor too so idk why its pullin that code
Now im going to pull out my 1 spark plug and see if my TDC mark is really TDC like yall said to do

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