moving a 44ft race trailer

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  #16  
Old 01-20-2016, 07:46 PM
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I would never attempt to move a trailer that size without good working brakes. Speaking from the experience of having the brakes fail on a trailer when I needed them. No, no wreck but my shorts needed changed.
 
  #17  
Old 01-20-2016, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by uniwagon
Hello again,to clear up some confusion I will be using a 1979 F350:built 460,4sp+spicer 4spd aux,4.10Dana 70,all new brakes,hitch,wiring,dual tanks ect......it can drag your house away,and stop on a dime and I can split all 4 gears in the main box doing it.
I'll just say it the trailer is Bill Maverick Goldens tri axle Haulmark (Little Red Wagon wheelstander).I knew Bill and the guy that is going with me knew and helped Bill for over 25 years and also put the vacuum brakes on the trailer.I can do all of the work at Bills house,his wife still lives their.
Chris
That's even better. Wasn't sure of the details. I'm not familiar with the guy, but I just googled the truck and wow! That thing was awesome. I'm sorry to hear that he has passed away.

I would say that you both sound extremely mechanically capable, and that the truck sounds like it should stand up to the challenge, plus with the splitter may even net more than the 460's legendary 8 mpg.

So you've gone over the obvious, wheels, bearings, and tires. Having an extra set or two won't be tough on the way down or on the way back. You are planning to swap the vacuum assist from the current Dodge, to your truck, so you'll have those when the time comes. Since I don't really know these vacuum system, what size line runs it? is it something small like the plastic line that runs the old trucks (and I actually remember seeing on newer vehicles up through the late 2000's) or rubber line. Would it be useful to have some bulk line to replace any rotted or ruined pieces.

But I'm just thinking about the grand adventure it would be. Could end up being a great story, or just a tiring week.

As for shipping it. How long are the shipping containers that semi's carry? If it'll fit in one of those, that may be an option. I think at 44 ft, it may be too long. Otherwise a 50 foot flatbed on a semi might work, but then you get into the loading angles and what not on the trailer.

I think the cost for shipping it are going to be outrageous, but you may find a hauler nearby that likes the challenge.
 
  #18  
Old 01-20-2016, 09:41 PM
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Hello,Why so much contention about brakes?They will work before I leave the driveway.The line on the tow truck will be plastic air brake line 1/2''. If I remember Vacuum from the intake is run to a actuator valve that is plumbed to the master cylinder,than a air line to rear with a shut off valve and a quick disconnect at the bumper.Fortunately for me the guy who installed it originally is coming with me.
Here is a pic of my tow rig.I just finished the auxiliary install,that is black thing hanging below the truck.I just have rust repair,roof front floors and rear wheel wells,but that can wait till after the trip.Below is my not yet finished wheelstander ''STRIPSHOW".And yes I built that.The trailer is the last big part of this whole mess.
Chris

 
  #19  
Old 01-20-2016, 11:52 PM
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brakes

Hello again ,in my previous post I had said I thought that there was a valve plumbed into the truck master to send vacuum to the rear.Well I just talked with my friend George and I was mistaken.It actually goes as follows. Truck
-vacuum from engine straight to the rear of the truck
-shut off valve at rear of truck/quick couple at bumper
Trailer
-Tank on trailer to store vacuum
-Brake booster and master cylinder hooked to an electric actuator
-master cylinder plumbed to hydraulic brakes
the actuator is operated by a brake controller in the the truck like electric brakes.I may have missed a thing or two but you all get the idea.
Chris
 
  #20  
Old 01-21-2016, 08:18 AM
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Sounds like a big mess to me.
 
  #21  
Old 01-24-2016, 08:44 AM
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It was probably the *best* they could do at the time. But for today, I'd seriously consider ditching all of that vacuum trailer brake stuff and just swap the trailer over to full electric brakes and be done with it.

Maybe a project for when you get it home. Good luck on your adventure.
 
  #22  
Old 01-24-2016, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by uniwagon
Hello again ,in my previous post I had said I thought that there was a valve plumbed into the truck master to send vacuum to the rear.Well I just talked with my friend George and I was mistaken.It actually goes as follows. Truck
-vacuum from engine straight to the rear of the truck
-shut off valve at rear of truck/quick couple at bumper
Trailer
-Tank on trailer to store vacuum
-Brake booster and master cylinder hooked to an electric actuator
-master cylinder plumbed to hydraulic brakes
the actuator is operated by a brake controller in the the truck like electric brakes.I may have missed a thing or two but you all get the idea.
Chris

Can you or your helper who did the install give some insight on why the conversion?

So does the trailer actually have air brakes or hydraulic brakes that are actuated by vacuum or brake controller assist?

Trying to understand it better.

EDIT, I just reread your post.
Sounds like a real early kinda electric over hydraulic.

I'd put a P3 tekonsha unit it and either buy a new electric over hydraulic unit that will mount on the tongue and use 12v power from the p3 and send pressure thru the existing brake lines to the brakes.

OR

Identify the axles and take some 2 strand 12g wire and 6 backing plates and put electrics on it.

Also, what kind of axles are they? Traditional sprung axles that are 7k or 8 k rated? What's the gross rating on it?
 
  #23  
Old 01-24-2016, 07:35 PM
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  #24  
Old 01-24-2016, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod
That's the kind of trailer that would do it.All of the ''Trailer moving" companies that I have talked to say that it is to big to fit on a trailer and only will tow it with good tires and brakes.Then I say that's why I called you and then I say air over hydraulic and they say air brakes,then I hang up(WTF).
I'm not sure on the axle type ,but it is a 14,000 lb GVW.It did have electric brakes but it was hard on parts always needed service and shoes,magnets ect...The whole point is to get it home with what it has and I can rebuild,update,upgrade later.
So on the off chance someone with a Pete and a Landoll looking for something to do stops buy my house,it looks like new tires, repack bearings,check lights,plumb my truck with vacuum and set sail.
Chris
 
  #25  
Old 01-25-2016, 08:40 AM
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My 34' enclosed gooseneck weighs 6k on the nose. I imagine a 44' is triple axles and in the 7500 pound range. Most states require functioning brakes on a trailer that weight even without cargo.
 
  #26  
Old 01-25-2016, 08:05 PM
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  #27  
Old 01-26-2016, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod
Hello,I contacted these people today,which did look very promising and was informed that they did not have a trailer long enough.
Looks like I'm going to Arkansas.
Chris
 
  #28  
Old 01-26-2016, 10:40 PM
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You give up too easily:

Equipment Shipping, Heavy Equipment Transport, Movers, Moving, Haulers, Delivery


Google "Arkansas low boy haulers" or similar and find many many more.
 
  #29  
Old 01-26-2016, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod
You give up too easily:

Equipment Shipping, Heavy Equipment Transport, Movers, Moving, Haulers, Delivery


Google "Arkansas low boy haulers" or similar and find many many more.
I just filled out the form and sent it and then I realized that I talked with these people ,and they already told me no.Still going to AR.
Chris
 
  #30  
Old 01-27-2016, 04:27 AM
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Around Midland/Odessa TX there are tons of options just sitting there. Passed by them yesterday.

Look up Big Tex.
 


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