no start, replaced every ignition component 1990 f150 4.9L
#16
there were three large (comparatively) circular grounds (went around the stud) and 1 small wire from the aftermarket electric fan I have in there on the body ground. one came from the battery, two came from a tightly wrapped bunch of wires running along the front of the truck. I cleaned them all up and moved them down to that new ground with a new bolt.
#17
back to this now - got a new EEC wiring harness and spliced it in. NO change. Still has normal spark with the Spout connector out but still no fuel. Hooked up the fuel pump by itself to a battery with 12.61 volts and it did not run. with key on, not getting any power to the pump either. wondering if i'm looking in the wrong area - what about crankshaft position sensor? i know that if that sensor controls timing. maybe my sensor went bad and thus when i take the spout connector out (thus removing the computer from the loop) i get spark? but i still get no fuel.
is there a chance that spout connector is bad? do they even go bad? it's just a jumper right?
pretty lost here at this point. i feel like I've tried every ignition thing there is with no success.
is there a chance that spout connector is bad? do they even go bad? it's just a jumper right?
pretty lost here at this point. i feel like I've tried every ignition thing there is with no success.
#18
The SPOUT shorting bar jumper has nothing to do with the engine running. The SPOUT circuit is the way the computer adjust the spark timing. But if the computer holds the circuit with power on or to ground you will get no spark. The SPOUT circuit has nothing at all to with fuel delivery.
There is a PIP circuit that goes to the computer & the ICM that will let the computer control the spark and fuel delivery timing.
The PIP sensor in the distributor is the crankshaft position sensor.
There is a PIP circuit that goes to the computer & the ICM that will let the computer control the spark and fuel delivery timing.
The PIP sensor in the distributor is the crankshaft position sensor.
#19
Maybe take a look at this?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-engines.html
Also I replaced my Bosch fuel pump last year (kept the sender apparatus). I tested it with a battery like you did before install and worked fine. I cleaned and enhanced the fuel pump/sender harness plug/recepticale.
All of our plug connections are dirty, dirty, dirty. And some boneheads don't understand that sticking DIElectric grease on the pins and recepticales in the plug/recepticale actually REDUCES electrical connectivity. Especially important to clean and enhance connections on all plugs/recepticales but especially on low voltage computer sensor connector plugs/recepticales. Low voltage sensor connections are especially sensitive to dirty connections. Maybe take a look at this, to cut to the chase, starting at post # 33?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-engines.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-engines.html
Also I replaced my Bosch fuel pump last year (kept the sender apparatus). I tested it with a battery like you did before install and worked fine. I cleaned and enhanced the fuel pump/sender harness plug/recepticale.
All of our plug connections are dirty, dirty, dirty. And some boneheads don't understand that sticking DIElectric grease on the pins and recepticales in the plug/recepticale actually REDUCES electrical connectivity. Especially important to clean and enhance connections on all plugs/recepticales but especially on low voltage computer sensor connector plugs/recepticales. Low voltage sensor connections are especially sensitive to dirty connections. Maybe take a look at this, to cut to the chase, starting at post # 33?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-engines.html
#20
yeah.. i did a lot of research on this forum before posting. I replaced the stator in my original distributor, nothing changed. I also replaced the ICM originally - no change. I then put in a completely new distributor which came with an ICM. no change. I then replaced the old computer with a new cardone computer specifically for this truck - nothing. Originally the truck was running like garbage but it DID have fuel. now, nothing... only spark with Spout out. NO power to fuel pump. I'm sure i have an electrical short somewhere and potentially blew the fuel pump in the meantime. But i am at my wits end trying to figure out where.
my thought is (aside from new fuel pump issue) that there is a short somewhere when the computer is connected. But I have tested for continuity in all the lines which go to the computer harness (following Haynes book procedures) and they all check out! I redid the ground on passenger side of radiator like you originally suggested Subford.
I guess i am assuming the truck would start and run okay with the Spout out, if I could figure out why there is no power to the fuel pump. (although i wouldt run it like that long term) but, is there no power to the fuel pump because there is a short somewhere around the computer? will the power to the fuel pump come back if i find the short? i don't want to buy a new fuel pump if it's not bad. i thought crankshaft position sensor bc if that is faulty, the computer will tell the truck not to start. But then wouldn't I get power to the fuel pump when the Spout connector was out since the computer is out of the "spark" loop, so to say? I know the spout connector has nothing to do with the fuel delivery so... something else is wrong? I just put in a new EEC relay and a new fuel pump relay, just for kicks and giggles. nothing changed.
also, thanks Tim Hodgson - i'll start on reading those posts too.
thanks for your help you guys i feel like i'm going in circles at this point.
my thought is (aside from new fuel pump issue) that there is a short somewhere when the computer is connected. But I have tested for continuity in all the lines which go to the computer harness (following Haynes book procedures) and they all check out! I redid the ground on passenger side of radiator like you originally suggested Subford.
I guess i am assuming the truck would start and run okay with the Spout out, if I could figure out why there is no power to the fuel pump. (although i wouldt run it like that long term) but, is there no power to the fuel pump because there is a short somewhere around the computer? will the power to the fuel pump come back if i find the short? i don't want to buy a new fuel pump if it's not bad. i thought crankshaft position sensor bc if that is faulty, the computer will tell the truck not to start. But then wouldn't I get power to the fuel pump when the Spout connector was out since the computer is out of the "spark" loop, so to say? I know the spout connector has nothing to do with the fuel delivery so... something else is wrong? I just put in a new EEC relay and a new fuel pump relay, just for kicks and giggles. nothing changed.
also, thanks Tim Hodgson - i'll start on reading those posts too.
thanks for your help you guys i feel like i'm going in circles at this point.
#21
rla2000 or maybe even me posted the diagram for the EEC somewhere in this forum or in the Big Bronco forum or the Electrical Wiring forum. (sorry...) I don't know if the EEC controls and sends out the 3 second pump up command signal to the fuel pump relay or not and then keeps the fuel pump running once the engine starts. I can't do it today, but if you can't find the diagram, I will look for it this weekend.
#22
Bill has a ton of diagrams for this model year truck and a host of others. Yes, the computer (PCM) does control the ~1 second fuel pump on time when you cycle the key from Off to Run. If there is no PIP signal from the stator the computer will time out after ~ 1second then drop the fuel pump relay.
The simple fact the fuel pump relay is not energizing or power to the fuel pump itself means there is more basic troubleshooting required. The OP needs to determine if the relay is being told to energize and if not, why. If it is commanded to energize, is it. If it is energizing, then is there power to the supply contacts. If the relay is energizing and the supply voltage is coming and leaving the relay where is it stopping (inertia switch, tank select switch if dual tanks or wiring in between). A test light is highly suggested to troubleshoot.
Regardless if the SPOUT is in or out the computer should energize the fuel pump relay for ~1 second when turning the key from Off to Run.
The simple fact the fuel pump relay is not energizing or power to the fuel pump itself means there is more basic troubleshooting required. The OP needs to determine if the relay is being told to energize and if not, why. If it is commanded to energize, is it. If it is energizing, then is there power to the supply contacts. If the relay is energizing and the supply voltage is coming and leaving the relay where is it stopping (inertia switch, tank select switch if dual tanks or wiring in between). A test light is highly suggested to troubleshoot.
Regardless if the SPOUT is in or out the computer should energize the fuel pump relay for ~1 second when turning the key from Off to Run.
#23
rla2005, here is a diagram of the datalink connector which provides a fuel pump out recepticale. Could the OP use this datalink connector fuel pump out to diagnose his fuel pump?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-pump.html
Edit: OP also see:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-question.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-pump.html
Edit: OP also see:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-question.html
#24
rla2005, here is a diagram of the datalink connector which provides a fuel pump out recepticale. Could the OP use this datalink connector fuel pump out to diagnose his fuel pump?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-pump.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-pump.html
More than one way to troubleshoot an issue. I start at the beginning, some others will jump to the middle or the end of the circuit. As long as you keep focus on the issue and not skip any steps, the result will be the same.
#25
with key on, double yellow leading to what looks like a fusible link into EEC relay has 4V. the red/green wire has 11.76V , the red wire has 4V and the black ground has 0.
the book says the yellow w fusible link should be hot at all times.. the haynes manual shows this leading to/coming from (i suck at reading diagrams) the computer but does not seem to lead anywhere else.
the book says the yellow w fusible link should be hot at all times.. the haynes manual shows this leading to/coming from (i suck at reading diagrams) the computer but does not seem to lead anywhere else.
#26
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