Pistons are now hitting the pistons because of seized valves? Really?
There are many good books you could read about basic engine design.
Once you are up to speed come on back and we can discuss.

 

Spell and grammar check are your friends. Using them would help you get your point across.
And don't preach about pollution when you drive an old 7.3.

 

I'm now am on 17k miles since I got it brand new last August. Not one stutter or whatever. And I used it in temps near 98 this summer to below zero here in Northern NH.
The only complaint I have is wind noise in the front drivers upper area of the door. I put a piece of weather stripping from home depot and it solved it. They tried adjusting it but it didn't work.

 

Not to get off topic, but I had to fix the drivers side wind noise problem on both my 12 and 16 Super Dutys. Only my 15 was perfect. However, I was able to fix it by removing and reinstalling the factory weather strip.

Personally, no problems regenerating on my 16.

 

Just got my truck back and service dpt couldn't re-create "Jackhammer" issue.

Driver's door wind noise. They bent the latch so the door closes tighter which created more noise and opening/closing issues. WTF did I buy?

 

Can always trade the unit on another brand. Sorry about your troubles.

 

Need to know if it it was in the upper front corner area and down about a foot or so from the upper corner area..

How many miles on yours? some say it doesn't happen until 15k or so? not sure but at 17k it hasn't on mine.

 

The wind noise on my '16 was coming from the top of the window, about halfway along the top of the glass before the glass starts to taper down to follow the a-pillar. On the '12, it was back further towards the corner where the door meets the b-pillar. On the '16, you could literally feel a little air coming in where the leak was, and put you hand over it and stop the noise. I peeled the whole stripping off except at the base, and stretched and refitted. I think I had to do this twice to get it right. It sure is nice not to have that little air hiss right next to your left ear.

I'm only at around 5k or so miles on mine, but during the winter the truck is primarily used for commuter duties - the most it will do is haul a few tons of pellets and trailer some snowmobiles - but it will idle a lot. I've probably had 10 regens to date. One thing I find interesting is that the length of regens seems to vary considerably despite most of them occurring on the same interstate highway at the same speed. My last regen was 35 miles - I had to go an extra exit down the highway to allow it to finish. My shortest seem to be about 15 miles. Next dealer visit I'm going to have them enable the exhaust filter screen, which will at least approximate things...

 

Hi K9clark,

I'd recommend taking your tech on a test drive; you may have a better chance of replicating the issue yourself and demonstrating it for them. If you'd like, I can bring this to the attention of your regional customer service manager. Since you're a new member, you may not have access to PMs yet. If that's the case, send your full name, best daytime phone number, VIN, current mileage, and servicing dealership to custserv@ford.com. This email address isn't actively monitored, so put my name ("Crystal") in the subject line and post here once you've sent it. That's how I'll know to go and look for your message.

Crystal

 

Thermal exhaust valve stiction, I correctly diagnosed it, covered how to correctly fix it, keep the truck out, fix is vetted with 10s of thousands of miles on the vehicles I was brought in on, or advised others out if state, at no cost to them for electroc or phone communication and I mean a lot and it's because that's the kind of person I am, ask those who know me.

Tuners, At the onset of this, I clearly stated a tuner might be able to change the thermal dynamics to help prevent the stiction until the guides opened up enough thru wear in, but I'm not in the tuner business and changing emission control devises or strategy can lead to a $10k fine for a professional mechanic. I was going at the root cause issue and doing so legally.
My intent
My intent has always been to inform on the root cause and how it needs to be fixed to keep the truck out and in a legal fashion.
My character
Helping when I can and often not charging in out of state cases.
I PMed one of my detractors in the heat of all of this and said, looks let's be friends even if we disagree. The reply was," no ford engineer is going to twist my mind".
When I started being called a troll, I was floored when I learnedly he definition was, somebody who just posts non sense to upset and incite..... Furthest from the truth.
I have always been in your guy's side. I'm sorry some fail to see this as that has always been my intent.
Hopefully all will be squared away, one way or the other and happiness will settle in.
Nick

 

Hey Nick, if I read your statement correctly, you said you have had your hands on a truck with the problem and corrected the issue? From earlier posts would suggest that the fix is to measure every valve guide clearance to ensure it is at the correct spec. And since then, the truck or trucks you have repaired have 10's of thousands of miles on them after the repair?

Is this correct?

If this is the case were the repairs done at a Ford dealer?

If so how do you go about getting the dealer to do this repair?

I also remember from an earlier post that Ford wont pay for that and they only pay for a head swap. Does that mean that the truck ('s) you fixed the owners paid the extra amount of tech time to measure each guide?

Just trying to get a good understanding here.

My truck has not gone into condition since September.....its either the cold weather or the problem has gone away. I tend to think its the weather. I will see when June rolls around. At that point I will decide to get the flash or look at other options at that point.

Thank you

 

Hi and good morning, Yes I was brought in bu dealer principles who had long time customers caught up in this. I was brought in on a consulting basis. All physical work was performed by the dealer's tech, some work was performed at a machine shop in one dealer's case at my direction. Once head was on bench and the springs were removed. The exhaust valves were physically dragging at room temp. They should slide freely and the clearance spec is .003. Some are showing about .0015. WAY TOO TIGHT..
What I had said about ford not paying for something was the nessasary step of taking the springs off the new head to make sure another head with clearances too tight.
It's been luck of the draw for customers finding a dealer that knows of the issue and or getting ford to put a new head on.
Have you tried talking to Crystal to see if there is a dealer in your area she knows of that has been sucessful in getting ford to put a new head on.
She really tries to help. She is in a "caught in the middle" deal to a degree but has helped many.

 

Thanks Nick,

So as I understand it, its only the driver side head that would get replaced correct? I know Ford has agreed to do a head some in some cases if you push hard enough. Once they got the head in you would have to get all the guides measured correct? Do the heads come bare or loaded? If the guides are too tight I assume the head gets sent to a local machine shop to be reamed out?

Yes Crystal did turn my info in and I spoke to a Ford Rep that was zero help. Basically the same thing everyone else gets.....We cant duplicate it so we can't fix it" The dealer I was at initially said the same thing. Another dealer I went to which is a much larger dealer, I spoke to the service manager. He said he was very familiar with the problem and did have several trucks come through and do a head swap. He said the problem did not go away.

I'm just trying to get things lined up if the problem comes back in the hot weather. If Ford agrees to a head swap I am pretty sure I could work something out with the dealer to inspect the guides prior to assembly.

 

Just the 8 exhaust valves.
I will tell you this though. As former dealership tech who has built many an engine, it will depend on who is measuring your head and what technique they are using. It's not uncommon to get two or three different measurements once you start splitting hairs with fine tolerances.
Furthermore, the head will come with valves installed. The tech is not going to want to pull valves and measure them and not get paid.
And if he does measure them, and finds they are in tolerance, I guarantee he isn't going to say they are never going to cause a problem. I wouldn't.
And finding a machine shop that is willing to alter the tolerances in a new factory head and warranty it is going to be near impossible. The manufacturing process is usually far beyond anything you will come up with locally. I've talked with several machinists about this. They just laughed at the suggestion of working on something like this. And these guys have been doing custom builds for decades.
If you are looking for an ideal clearance at the looser end of spec you are chasing a ghost. Too many variables.
If Ford thinks the cure is in the stem clearance, they will say so. So far they have said nothing.

 

Thanks for the input! I understand that fully and I can imagine a machine shop not wanting to touch something like that let alone warranty it! I just wanna hear as much about this as I can. I think I have decided to purchase an ESP and keep this truck for a few years. So i want to know absolutely every possible finding and option. I agree, Ford has not come out with a solid fix so I am patiently sitting back and waiting. Additionally the truck has been flawless since September so I am not frantic.