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I recently bought a 1995 Ford E-350 passenger bus with a 7.3L motor in it. It was leaking fuel into the coolant.
Today I undertook the task to replace the injector cups to solve the problem. I employed the help of two friends, both diesel mechanics at a local shop.
I ordered the injector cup removal and install kit from RiffRaff diesel, along with new cups and injector o-rings.
Here's where it gets bad.
For some reason due to miscommunication, during the install of the new injector cups, my friend the mechanic only applied the Loctite 620 to the large vertical flange of the injector cup, and no where else. I have the stock photo from Riffraff's instructions showing what I mean. The problem was apparently, in the black and white instructions, it's hard to see the green sealant on the bottom of the injector cup (as is visible in the photo) and thus it was neglected.
How much of a problem is this? I've resigned myself to figuring I'll likely need to order new cups to do this whole damn job again. Will the cups seal properly without the sealant at the bottom?
I really appreciate any responses, even if it's just to tell me how much of a dumba$$ I am. Thanks!
I agree with bill. Also in the second go around I can't stress enough that prep work in the head is absolutely vital to a long lasting instal. Any debris or old sealant can jeopardize the new seal
Before I even woke up this morning to read these replies, I knew I had F'ed up. When I texted my friend the mechanic that photo of the sealant being applied to both parts of the injector cups, he responded,
"I have a new set of cups here at the shop, I already bought them, don't worry about it, we f'ed up"...
I need to return the Riffraff rental tool by Monday this next week, so we'll be working on it this week.
Before I even woke up this morning to read these replies, I knew I had F'ed up. When I texted my friend the mechanic that photo of the sealant being applied to both parts of the injector cups, he responded,
"I have a new set of cups here at the shop, I already bought them, don't worry about it, we f'ed up"...
I need to return the Riffraff rental tool by Monday this next week, so we'll be working on it this week.
That's the way it goes sometimes!
Hey....stuff happens man. Look at the bright side. At least you caught it and it didn't cause you even bigger problems later on.
Hey....stuff happens man. Look at the bright side. At least you caught it and it didn't cause you even bigger problems later on.
exactly. I remember reading a thread on the superduty side of a fella redoing them 3 times. Finally another member swung in to help and the final result was a poor prep job on all the previous tries. Good luck and pay attention to detail
exactly. I remember reading a thread on the superduty side of a fella redoing them 3 times. Finally another member swung in to help and the final result was a poor prep job on all the previous tries. Good luck and pay attention to detail
Yes, I bought a wire brush at Napa today. We're going to tackle them again tomorrow after work. My friend already bought the cups and grabbed a bottle of Loctite 620 from work. It's time for round two!
Can some one tell me, what is the best method of cleaning out these injector cup bores, and how clean do they need to be prior to the installation of the new cups?
Also, can you tell me how much of the Loctite 620 needs to be on these cups to ensure a good seal?
How do you guys go about getting the cup bores nice and dry and free of oil/residue? Getting the residual sealant off the very bottom of the bore (around the injector hole) is a pain in the ***!
Does anyone have any useful tips and tricks? We're installing the new cups tomorrow after work.
Thanks!
These are the injector cups that we removed today. They were first installed on Sunday, but without applying sealant to the bottom vertical flange. There was a lot of residual Loctite 620 that was wet to the touch after over 72 hours... Should it still be wet?!?
About it still being wet, it's what I think they call an anaerobic compound and it only hardens in the absence of oxygen. So, it will never "dry" in the open air. It will harden where it's supposed to, in the area between the two surfaces it's sealing where air doesn't reach it. I learned this years ago when I tried to seal a cracked engine block by coating Loctite over the outside of the crack. It never hardened.
About any tips, I haven't changed out injector cups before so can't offer any advice.
Today will tell whether or not we got it right the second time around. Should be good to go now, and I'll be able to drive the bus (aka, party mobile, aka registered motorhome that you can drink in the back of in Washington state while driving down the road, making it an excellent weekend mobile for friends and family....) without worrying about it!
A 12 gauge barrel brush rigged on a drill works great for cleaning the bore.
Use wd40 for lube and brake clean to clean the bore. After cups have dried suck the cylinders out
There was a write up in the 7.3 SD section about a month ago, it had some nice how to's with lots of pics. As for how much only a light dab should do the trick, I've done a couple of them, and I always tend to put some on the bottom of the cup so far so good (knock on wood)
12-14-2015, 01:26 AM
