Gary, If I lived out by you, I'd be all over this thing.

exc ammco brake arcer - The Ford Barn

 

Cool! We were supposed to drive to Shelton next weekend to help my wife's son move, but now it's the following weekend. I think that takes us through Port Orchard. I just let my used shoes find their way into the drum as I drive. If you want it,I'll pick it up and you can come get it when we have our Western truckfest next summer.

 

Ah, probably have to pass, trying to save all my duckets for more Fords right now. There are so darn many cheap trucks around. I've looked at 3 42-47 fire trucks in the last week and also talked to a guy who has a couple 40s COEs he wants to sell. Then there's that nice straight 47 Federal that's been calling my name, some script TT beds, another jailbar front clip...on and on, and I barely have enough change to go for coffee until next week.

 

Somebody could make a nice extra income on the side arcing shoes for everybody. It's one of the steps that makes a brake job a real brake job. I'm told a little work on the ends of shoes with a rasp file helps in lieu of this.

 

It would be a nice cottage industry to reline shoes, turn drums and arc shoes. Years ago I did a brake job on a 57 F350 that was my daily driver. I had a truck brake shop turn the drums, reline and arc the shoes (with velvet touch linings). The little truck also had a hydro-vac booster. I have never had a vehicle before or since that had as good of brakes as that old truck.

 

I'm a little unclear on the specifics. Thought they sold "oversized" shoes back in the day specifically for drums that had been turned. Maybe more than one size, for more variation. Why weren't "oversize" shoes/linings arc'd already then?

Tried to get around this on the 64 by installing new drums and new shoes. A few strokes with a coarse file or grinder probably wouldn't have hurt. Believe it or not, there is one (1) hill in Iowa big enough to have a runaway truck ramp. Should drive there this weekend to see how the brakes work, ha ha.

 

I've heard of thicker linings (oversized) but am unclear about the availability of them. At any rate, one or the other makes the complete brake job. Even with oversize, you might still need some grinding to get full contact. A drum brake job really isn't complete without this tool. And yes, the closest you will come is just buy new drums Tedster

 

Well, we all think Gary should buy it. Then, he can arc everybody's brake shoes. "Mt. Pickett Wheel & Tire" has certain ring to it, too.

 

I agree Maybe we should take up a pool and buy it for him.

 

Now ya got me thinking Gary

 

If it is not to deep, could you explain to me how the machine works.

 

How the machine works, or why it was done?

 

You basically grind the shoes so they fit the radius of the drum and make contact the full length of the shoe.

 

Does the machine have a device or fixture that 'reads' the inner diameter of the drum, then replicates it on the lining. Sears used to sell a router duplicator that you ran the stylus over the surface of a gunstock or other wood piece and the router followed it's path on your piece of walnut. I'm thinking it must work something like that. I can just see my shop filled with asbestos dust and every time the wind blows it puffs up from the stacks and piles of parts and framing. However, I do like the idea of painting my new logo on the doors of the tonner pickup I'm collecting parts for. I have a bed from a '51 f3 sitting behind the cab. It's not too bad but the front panel is really shot from being packed with pine needles between it and it's cab. Also it has nice bed wood and strips until about a foot from the front. My plan is a diesel transfer tank with hand pump up front and a small hand winch wrecker boom behind that. I have a couple of nice 5 ton hand winches under my bench already. I will patch things up before I put the tank in, but maybe not too beautifully. I'll leave that for the next generation of restorers to pull the tank and find a can of worms. But I digress.......

 

I;ve never seen one at work. I don't know if it's just grind to fit or what. I'm guessing you measure the drum and there is a setting adjustment on the arcing machine with measuring increments on it.
Front bed panel should be pretty easy to make. I made the one in the rpu from the twine box lit off an old baler, e few passes though the bead roller, break the edges....