Sorry to start two threads on the same problem, but the title is incorrect and I wanted it accurate in case someone is searching for this problem years down the road.

First start of the day she fires right up and then shuts down immediately. So turn the key, cranks for maybe two seconds, ignition, runs for MAYBE a second, then dies. Then crank no start two or three times and it's fine the fourth time. Then she runs fine all day long. No codes.

This happened twice over the course of three weeks or so, then yesterday it happened again only this time it didn't want to start up again. I tried cranking it five or six times, went away for half an hour, came back out, fired right up and drove great the rest of the day. Got the fuel filters and oil changed in prep for a trip I'm supposed to be on right now and she ran great.

This morning, get up, same thing. Fires up, shuts off. This time I've cranked it at least 15 times with no start.

KOEO I've got:
IPR: 14.4
ICV: .23
FMP: 48.5
FVP: 12

While cranking:
IPR: 77.6
ICV: .41
FMP: 48.5
FVP: 12-11.5

 

Looks like a HPOP

Test those numbers again at hot idle and again 2500 rpm in park A/C off that
Means make sure the defroster is off to

 

Truck parked on an incline?

 

Ha I'd love to be able to if I could get the darned thing to start! Wouldn't the HPOP problem be more prevalent when hot and not cold?

It IS parked on a slight incline, yeah, but nothing like a San Francisco street.

I should also mention that I've recently had the IPR valve replaced as well as the injector o-rings.

 

Park the truck so it nose down and tail gate high. See if it starts.

 

Ok, I broke out the tractor and pulled the truck in a circle and pointed her nose down... still no start. Out of curiosity, are we trying to put as much oil forward as we can there to build pressure? The ICP flashed to 438 but went back down to the mid 200s. I have a tow truck on the way but it's going to be at least another hour.

 

You would need to get it going so the sump is full. Then park it and wait to see what happens.
My guess is the oil in the sump is leaking out the pump shaft seal. If it works you know you pretty were to look.

 

Gotcha. But that's still an HPOP replacement, no?

 

Correct, the ICP numbers you put up would lead us to think that, as well as the fact parking nose down won't let the sump on the early HPOP leakdown.
Early builds have the seal towards the back of the engine, gear side. If the sump stays full, she'll build pressure easier and might light. Mine would not when it went out but I think it was a swash plate issue.
She won't light unless you can get to the magic 500 psi threshold.

 

Ok, well it's at the shop now. I'm hoping they get around to diagnosing it today and can fix it for me tomorrow am. How long of a procedure is that?

 

I'm sure the master techs would have it done half day? Little longer?

Guy like myself, a LONG day.

 

Under 3 hours, real time. Flate rate a bit more.
The suggest I made was to pretty much identify the root cause. Yes its still a pump.

 

Show off

It took me half that time getting the courage to tear into mine, and I am not afraid to wrench on stuff. Granted, next time would be much easier....with that said I would be fine without a next time but you never know.

 

Sounds like things are well sorted out here.

The only thing I'll add is that when they replace the pump, do it right the first time and get an Adrenaline HPOP. It overcomes the OEM shortcomings and even has the same warranty as Ford: 24 month/unlimited mileage.

http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20046...lpumphpop.aspx

 

Welllll it turns out it's NOT the HPOP. While diagnosing it this morning, the pulled the ICP and IPR and put them back in and vroom... she started right up. The pressure tested at the rail and the pump's fine... working how it's supposed to. They're of the opinion that it's something electrical now and they're digging around looking for chafing or pigtail problems.