Guys, the old truck has been running well. Started it today and was letting it idle and it all of sudden just went dead. It didn't start running rough or give any signs. When The engine died, I actually had a harbor freight multi meter with the induction tach on #1 plug wire. Tried to start it back up and man it didn't want to fire. Finally got it to fire and then it did it again. Fired it up again, drove it out the road about two miles, let it idle for about 5 minutes, purred like a kitten. Does that sound like a fuel delivery issue? A carb clogged issue?

It did it about a month ago at a show but I was thinking I stalled it at the time.

Jonathan

 

My 226 really likes it's choke in this cooler weather. It always fires right up and dies if I don't give it some choke and let it warm up a little before starting off.

 

Yes, it sounds like a fuel delivery issue. I would start with the tank and work toward the carb,

 

I drove it a little just now and it did fine, started cold, warmed up and didn't die at all, weird.....

I have always been suspicious of the carb, it leaks at the gaskets so I don't think it has been touched in a while.

I have a spare 847 rebuilt and ready to put on but I can't figure out how to measure the rpm. The induction tach I picked up at harbor freight is eradic and does not work. I want to set the rpm correctly which is why I haven't swapped them. My tank is in good shape, no rust, and I am running two filters, but they probably need changed.

j burton

 

I recently had my coil die. From cold, if it started (it wouldn't always), it would run just fine for almost exactly a mile, then it would jerk and stutter and die. Cool down, repeat. Feel your coil when it dies, mine was smokin' hot.

 

Do yourself a favor by opening the line and inspecting condition. How did you determine the inside of your tank was rust free? If the filters are collecting crud, it is coming from somewhere - like the tank. Fuel line issues don't follow a consistent script - everyting is fine untill the flow stops.

 

Took this week off so I am driving the truck everyday. Used it hunting this morning and it started fine at 28 degrees. This afternoon I rebuilt the carb. The bowl had very fine rust particles in the bottom. Cleaned everything, new gaskets, new springs, hardware, etc. Runs great and I no longer have the hesitation and slight stumble when I hit the accelerator. I have a new tank and new lines in my near future. If I buy a new tank from DC, will my original fuel sender work with it?

JB

 

Doubtful it was a carb issue causing it to die if it later restarted and didn't re-exhibit regularly. Maybe a fuel delivery problem but they normally (not always though) show up at high engine speeds/loads. When coils go bad they're pretty consistent about run time/each time started. Check the primary wire from the coil to the distributor(the small wire), especially once it enters the distributor. I've seen many of them lose their insulation over the years and sporadically ground-out intermittently. Normally undetected as they pass under the breaker plate.

 

The primary wire, it attaches to a stud correct and doesn't pass through the body correct? I ask because ours has sealing putty at the body, like it passes through all the way to the breaker plate? I have a spare used and NOS Ford distributor and both have the stud. I hate to mess with the distributor because that opens up a whole can of worms, with timing.

 

The original used the stud and separate wires inside/outside the dizzy. Later Ford superseded those wires to a single piece with a rubber grommet where the stud would be. The newer type is not as flexible as the old and could be rubbing on the points plate, and shorting out.

 

I'm having huge problems with my 1951 F1 stalling when it's hot too. I replaced the coil, carburator, fuel pump, fuel filter, drained the tank and inspected it (clean - also no crud in the filter). Removed the gas cap to see if it was an air flow problem in the tank (vapour lock) - still stalled. Put new plugs in - ran great for 6 hours then started to stall again. Spark plugs looked white from singe/burn) It will idle for hours but drive it for 10 minutes and it chugs then stalls. I'm at a total lose...any suggestions?

 

I suggest you start a new thread to ask this question. This thread is older. And I have no suggestions about your problem, but I'm sure others will.

 

I agree, and the way it dies is important. If an engine just shuts off, that's ignition. When something interrupts the flow of fuel, the engine sags for a fair amount of time (10 seconds or more) before dying.