Hmmm, I totally forgot about that since isn't on the outside. I did/do have wires from the back so that might be what it was. Thanks for reminding me, fortunately I haven't used those connectors or the switch since I was repacking my things to get ready for the trip and storage. Hardest part will be putting the bike in storage.

 

Try looking here and see if the wiring diagrams might help
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...clv-tfi-3.html

 

Thanks again! Found the wires and plugged them up, but when I turned the key I still got nothing and it wasn't until I was using the jumper wire that I saw that I had forgotten to plug the original wire back onto the starter relay...d'oh!

It works fine now, but I soon realized that the fuel pump wasn't pumping fuel to the carb. I'm a bit stumped by this one as its mechanical so either it works or it don't. The weird thing is that it was working fine (or at least I thought it was) when I tore the motor apart earlier this year. The only thing I can think of is that I somehow mixed the pumps up when I was tearing down the junkyard motor, but that is highly unlikely since there are two different styles depending on the GVRW of the vehicle. The one on the van is a three port pump and I'm fairly certain that the one on the junkyard motor was a two port since it was only from an 83 F-150. According to AutoZone, the one for my van has three because it is rated for over 8500# GVRW.

I first tried to run it from the tanks since I know that I had put fuel in the forward tank before the motor took a **** on me, but it wouldn't draw anything. So I grabbed my 5gal gas can and dropped a fuel line to it and the pump and nothing, switched ports on the pump and still nothing. By this time I wanted to at least see if it ran so I put the rest of the spark plug wires on, cut the hot wire from the original coil connector and crimped it with a spade so I could plug it into the HEI distributor, pulled a plug and turned the engine over to verify that the distributor was working fine, and then dumped a little fuel through the carb and turned the key. Viola! She runs!!! Granted only for a second, but at least she runs and the timing was set right on the first go!

I went back to AutoZone to order the pump and get everything else I needed to finish this up...hopefully. Came back and sorted a few other issues out at well. Got the vacuum line and new port for the brake booster (since I couldn't find the old one), a 1" carb spacer, a set of air cleaner spacers, a K&N air filter kit, new oil, filter, and ZDDP additive for after the break in period, and other odds and ends.

Finally got the air cleaner to sit properly above the distributor, it took the carb spacer and the 1" and 1/4" rings from the filter spacer kit. Only issue now is that the carb air filter stud is too short. I'm not 100% sure that I want to make it any longer since I really don't want to play origami with the air filter just to put it in or make sure I have even less clearance between the firewall and the filter top, but at least with the filter element in place and the top flipped upside down the carb stud at least registers in the hole of the top. I think I might be able to press it down far enough to at least engage the threads of the stud and tighten it down the rest of the way. The filter base sits right on top of the distributor, but when I tighten the distributor down the rest of the way there will be a gap of about a 1/4" before I start tightening down the filter assembly.







Tomorrow I'll hook up the tach that I'm "borrowing" before I get the pump. I'll have to regap the plugs to make sure they are set the same and right, as well as make sure I've got all my hose clamps on and tight. I'm also going to have to see if I can get a hand in turning the engine over while I listen up front, or just use the jumper wire again. When I was turning the engine over before the key issue was resolved I noticed that I was hearing an odd noise at the front of the engine, not a knocking, not a grinding or scraping, but somehow a cross between all of them up by the fan and I can't hear it when in the drivers seat. The fan does touch the shroud but I didn't think that it was that and I was much more concerned about the valve "lash" being incorrect. So I loosened all the bolts for the rockers just a turn or half turn just to be sure I wasn't hearing any valve to piston contact, but it was still there when I tried it again. I'm not sure what it could be aside from the fan, so I'll root around with that problem a bit too, in hopes of fixing it before I start the engine.

I'm hoping to get the engine running good tomorrow and then start on the little things like setting idle speed and other things like why my headlights don't work. Hardest part will be doing the cam break in at 2k RPM for half an hour.

 

Maybe loosen the hose on the fuel filter on the carb side and see if it will pump fuel into the filter? Perhaps there is a restriction somewhere after the filter.. Maybe the float stuck and the needle valve not opening?
On my 85 I connected a hose directly from the fuel pump and dropped it into a gas can. I still had to pour some gas in the carb to get it to start. Even then if I romp on the gas it wants to cut out.. I had replaced the mechanical pump with one that was in the van when i bought it.. It was new and still in the NAPA box, but i don't know how old it is.. When I dropped the gas tank there was allot of rust in it.. On mine, I suspect that either the new fuel pump diaphragm is dry rotted and not working well, the new fuel filter is clogged, or there is some trash in the carb..

 

You saying that reminded me that I was having that issue with mine before the old engine **** itself. I suppose what I could do is just disconnect the steel fuel line from the pump and see if pumps at all. You could be right about there being a restriction somewhere. Worst case scenario, I'll just fill both bowls with fuel and start the engine now that I have coolant in it. If it still don't pump, then I'll know for sure that it is the pump. As for the filter, I did make sure that it was facing the right way, since it does have a check valve inside it.

 

The filter is right on mine. It is a stock motocraft 2150 carb with the screw in filter.. It can only go on one way.. The day it quit I was about 2 or 3 miles from home and didn't want to pay a tow bill. Having extra parts in the back, I used a radiator overflow tank with the hose on it that just fit in one of the two holes on the air horn. Poured gas in the tank and had a friend keep to gas going to the float bowl while we drove home! That might have ruined the pump, I don't know, but better a $22 pump then a $75 tow bill..

 

One other thing to check is make sure you installed the fuel pump with the pump arm under the fuel pump eccentric. I have seen a couple of guys install the fuel pumps with the arm above the eccentric. They didn't work so well that way.

Also if you have any concern with an issue in the rest of the fuel system I would run some new rubber fuel line from the suction side of the fuel pump to a gas can full of fresh gas. Especially during initial start up and cam break in. That gives you one less thing to worry about having an issue with during cam break in.

Also I would recommend replacing any old rubber fuel lines in the fuel system. They can break down and have been known to collapse under suction.

 

Can't go wrong with having extra parts lol My filter is aftermarket since I no longer have the stock carb on it anymore.

I didn't think to check on that, but when I put it on it was a real PITA to get it on and keep the holes lined up to thread the bolts in so I doubt this could be the issue. However to be "better safe than sorry" I'll try to double check this after I disconnect the steel fuel line today if it still doesn't pump fuel. That is really the only way that I can think of to "prime" the fuel pump, if that doesn't work I'll leave the fuel line connected to the pump and see if I can accuate it by hand (PITA as well) while it is below the fuel level on the gas can sitting on the ground. At least then I'll know for sure that it isn't working.

I would rather run steel fuel line with the stock bends in it (if possible) as a replacement, but with as old as this van is I wouldn't be surprised if that is what the issue is too. I'm going to use the gas can and fuel to run it during break-in, I just hope that it will last the half hour at 2k RPM, like you said...one less thing to worry about

Most of the old fuel lines I've seen are old, stiff, and need to be replaced, but they don't look like they're at risk of collapsing. I will replace everything as soon as I can, but for now I just need this pump to work for the road trip across country for Christmas. I have taken a look at the fuel tanks and it appears as if the forward tank has been replaced. There is almost no grease and no rust on it at all on the outside (unlike everything else around it) and the only rust to speak of is surface rust on only the resistance weld for the seam. I will still have to take a look at the inside of the tank eventually but at least it looks like it will hold fuel well. The rear tank I'm not 100% sure about since it has considerable amount of damage to it, but it still feels quite solid even though it appears to be either painted or covered in really dried grease.

 

You can't run all steel fuel lines. There has to be some flexible lines between the chassis and the engine. This allows the engine to move without cracking the steel lines.

Old hard, stiff fuel hose is just as bad, if not worse then, too soft of fuel hose. Old hose can break down on the inside and plug up the passages. Add to that the chances of it cracking and breaking causing a leak and burning the van to the ground!! You need to replace them before your trip!!!

And if there is a pinhole or a crack in any of the steel line or the hoses your pump won't pump the fuel up to the engine.

 

I know, it be replaced as it is built, steel and rubber.

Fuel pump was bad, took it back out and checked it. It was sucking and blowing out of the inlet port. Put the new one in with not a curse word to spare and she pumped and started on her own. I lost all the patience I had today and had to leave early, the rain was really getting to me, especially once I saw condensation in the oil that was being pumped up from the oil pan. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have a clearer head and finish everything else off. Thanks for the helpful suggestions everyone! Wish I had a beer right now

 

Tried posting this last night but I fell asleep after calling my brother lol


Almost had the van finished today...until the radiator pissed everywhere.





Had the valves lashed last night, and buttoned up the covers today. Had to grind down the side of the OEM coolant port for the heater core so that it could turn the distributor. Reset the distributor, set the gap on the plugs, and cleaned up the wires. Got the clamps on the heater core hoses for the water pump and put in the coolant, that's when I noticed that the radiator had a hole in it. No visible damage from debris or handling, just leaked on the engine side about 3/4 of the way up from the bottom. It looks like one of the fins separated from the core and took part of the core's wall with it. The only other place coolant was leaking was at the water pump. At first I thought I was going to have replace the pump as well, but it looks like it was coming from one of the ports for the heater cores. I'm hoping that just tightening up that clamp up will fix that otherwise I'll have to get another section of heater hose for that as well. Tomorrow I'm going to try to use some solder and fix the big leak and one tiny one I think I saw beneath it. Also managed to get the kick down linkage to fit as well, just straightened out a couple of the bends in it and added a couple others to clear the block and the throttle linkage bracket, only thing that concerns me with it is that the original carb has a far less throw on the throttle arm for the kick down so it either presses into the stop on the trans or holds the throttle open on the new Holley. I have it so that it doesn't hold the throttle open since I'd rather have it pressing into the stop when the carb is at WOT than keeping the idle up when the pedal isn't pressed. Still need to find a switched power wire somewhere that I can use for the choke on the Holley. Thought I had found one until I traced it forward and realized that it was the ignition coil power wire and I can't use it according to Holley's instructions. Come to think of it, the original carb has an electric choke I think, I just need to figure out which wire goes to it so I can use that one. I'll double check the original carb before I start chasing the wire to be sure that it had a power wire for it's choke, since it could be a divorced choke based on intake manifold heat. When I did have the engine running the couple short times it was running great and pulling 20hg so I might see if I can better vacuum (not likely), but then again the distributor clamp bolt was loose and I think it moved a little when I was straightening up the spark plug wires so I'll probably have to reset it anyways.

If anyone wants the interior for the van let me know before I leave for the trip and if you're fairly close to the route that I'm taking then I'll drop off the pieces while on my way. Speaking of the interior, I need to get this van finished since the inside of the van is Turing into a hazard of its own lol

 

let me make sure this is corect.. You have a 86 that had the DSII ignition?
If so maybe this will help with the choke heater..
First though, on the stock carb, the choke runs off the S terminal on the back of the alternator. It does not require full 12 volts and does not get full 12 volts from the S terminal. It only has power when the alternator is turning..
Does your new carb require full 12 volts to the choke heater?

Here is what I came up with when I checked my DSII harness.

#1 Round Connector. C235-----------
White - -------- to red on DSII-------- Run = 12v --- Start = 12v
White/Blk ---- Choke heater---------- Run = 0v ---- Start = 0v
Red/Blu------- to white on DSII------ Run = 0v ---- Start = 12v
Blue----------? emissions-------------- Run = 12v --- Start = 12v

Square connector C226
Red/Grn ------ Ballast resistor and bypass ---- Run = 12v ------------------------- Start = 12v
Red/Wht ----- Water temp sender -------------- Run = bouncing from 2v to 4v-- Start = 0v
White/Red --- Oil pressure sender ------------- Run = 12v ------------------------- Start = 12v
Yellow ------- ? emissions ----------------------- Run = 0v -------------------------- Start =12v


The White/Black stripe is my choke heater and measured 0volts because the engine was not running..

The Blue and the Yellow wire, I don't know what it went to but was in the harness.

Here is the link to my page on the DSII wiring
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...clv-tfi-3.html

Good luck with the radiator.. Several years back i changed the radiator on my moms 78 e100 due to a leak. I am going to take it to a radiator shop and have it checked out and fixed if possible because it fits all 3 vans we have...

 

One more thing.. The kick-down rod,, the throttle arm on the carb (what would you call it?) throttle arm where the kick-down rod attaches, Is there a way to move the pin or little snap on piece, the rod fastens to, down farther on the throttle arm so the kick-down rod would have less travel?

 

Wow! Thanks for the info Anna! To answer your questions though I'm not sure what I had before hand, all I know is that it was OEM and the manual hasn't been too much help in finding out. However, since I did bring it back with me I'll dig through it some more to see if I can figure it out.

As far as the radiator goes, the repair work went unsuccessful. Everytime I managed to plug one hole it seemed like I had created another two, so I went to AutoZone to order a new one. While I was there I also ordered a new fan clutch since I'm not sure this one was working fine even it seemed to be locked with the pulley and always seemed to be turning when the engine was running, but I'll admit that my understanding of its mechanics isn't up to par. Best case scenario, I'll just return it and get the money back. Besides, I'm more concerned about the water pump operating correctly, even though this was the one that came off of the van and not the junkyard motor. I was having over heating issues last time it was running and I'm not sure what the cause was, although if the radiators leaks were there before that would certainly cause it. I'm not sure if someone else replaced the water pump before, and if they did did they replace it with the right one (CW vs CCW rotation). I'll take the thermostat out tomorrow so I get full flow and run the motor to see if I have coolant/water flowing through the top of the radiator.

 

Ok, looked at the manual and from I can tell, I have one of the two Duraspark distributors, still not sure if it is the II or the III yet. However, fortunately for me, there is only one diagram that could fit this vehicle - 86-87 non-Cali 5.8L and 7.5L engines. So it looks like the choke heater wire that you were talking about is the one that I'm going to need. In the diagram it shows it as hot when the engine is running, which is fed by a red/white wire from the choke relay which is powered by a hot at all times wire and only when the alternator is running. I'll try that tomorrow once I get the new radiator in and double check the water pump. Thanks for the help Anna, looks like you've got a very similar setup as mine.