1994 F150 - Cab Leak
#1
1994 F150 - Cab Leak
Recently while working on my truck I noticed that there was rust on the floor pans under the passenger side. After all the rain we had in Houston this weekend I discovered that it seems to be caused by water leaking into the cab.
After the rain, I pulled the flooring up again and the padding on the bottom was soaking wet and I noticed moisture all the way up the passenger floor to the back corner of the firewall. I checked the seals on the rain gutters on the roof and those seem to be good.
I was thinking that maybe the water was leaking in through the box where the heater core sits, but I'm unsure if this is actually possible. I want to try to find it's source and seal it. What are some locations in this area where leaks may form and allow water to get in?
After the rain, I pulled the flooring up again and the padding on the bottom was soaking wet and I noticed moisture all the way up the passenger floor to the back corner of the firewall. I checked the seals on the rain gutters on the roof and those seem to be good.
I was thinking that maybe the water was leaking in through the box where the heater core sits, but I'm unsure if this is actually possible. I want to try to find it's source and seal it. What are some locations in this area where leaks may form and allow water to get in?
#2
Good question, is your problem along the strip that holds down your carpet close to the bottom edge door seals ? I too have the problem on both sides and have cut out sections inward of the rocker panels (donor truck) about a foot on both sides to cover my problems. On the passenger side for myself near the rear lower seat belt mounting pont is my problem. Will watch for other responses as to the cause .....
#3
Good question, is your problem along the strip that holds down your carpet close to the bottom edge door seals ? I too have the problem on both sides and have cut out sections inward of the rocker panels (donor truck) about a foot on both sides to cover my problems. On the passenger side for myself near the rear lower seat belt mounting pont is my problem. Will watch for other responses as to the cause .....
#4
I just fixed this in August.
You either need to reseal the cowl or look under the cab where the mount is boxed in.
(Pull that rubber plug)
Water always runs over and sits against that pinch weld flange the weatherstrip attaches to because of the pitch of the floor.
Leaks into the A-pillar are a big problem if not addressed asap.
You either need to reseal the cowl or look under the cab where the mount is boxed in.
(Pull that rubber plug)
Water always runs over and sits against that pinch weld flange the weatherstrip attaches to because of the pitch of the floor.
Leaks into the A-pillar are a big problem if not addressed asap.
#6
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#8
I also have a leak at the back passenger side somewhere. There was a little splash of water on the upper ledge, sorta behind the passenger's right shoulder on the floor.
#9
Could you provide some further details on this? Now that I'm almost done fixing my rust issues, I thought it might be a good idea to fix the source.
I also have a leak at the back passenger side somewhere. There was a little splash of water on the upper ledge, sorta behind the passenger's right shoulder on the floor.
I also have a leak at the back passenger side somewhere. There was a little splash of water on the upper ledge, sorta behind the passenger's right shoulder on the floor.
Remove the cowl and chisel all the old cracking seam sealant out.
Go to the bottom where the rubber drain is behind the wheel well.
Pull the drains out and use a hose to flush all the muck and chunks of sealant out the bottom.
Take a hook tool and open the seam from the upper windshield corner across the rain gutter and around to the back window.
Use a little wire brush to get back to metal.
Epoxy dtm primer and replace the body caulk.
Buy the better ($20ish) caulk.
It will be cheaper than doing it again.
#10
#11
Remove the wipers and antenna.
Remove the cowl and chisel all the old cracking seam sealant out.
Go to the bottom where the rubber drain is behind the wheel well.
Pull the drains out and use a hose to flush all the muck and chunks of sealant out the bottom.
Take a hook tool and open the seam from the upper windshield corner across the rain gutter and around to the back window.
Use a little wire brush to get back to metal.
Epoxy dtm primer and replace the body caulk.
Buy the better ($20ish) caulk.
It will be cheaper than doing it again.
Remove the cowl and chisel all the old cracking seam sealant out.
Go to the bottom where the rubber drain is behind the wheel well.
Pull the drains out and use a hose to flush all the muck and chunks of sealant out the bottom.
Take a hook tool and open the seam from the upper windshield corner across the rain gutter and around to the back window.
Use a little wire brush to get back to metal.
Epoxy dtm primer and replace the body caulk.
Buy the better ($20ish) caulk.
It will be cheaper than doing it again.
FWIW, I've found Loctite PL S30 Polyurethane Roof and Flashing sealant (Loctite PL S30 Polyurethane Roof & Flashing Sealant from Loctite Adhesives) works very well as a seam sealant on the bottom side and inside the cabin. But I think I'd want something more solid and UV stable on the roof.
#14
Do you happen to remember which Sikaflex? 252 maybe? Did you paint it?