So I followed the advice I have recently received on a previous thread, and have ordered a turbo rebuild kit. I am about to start the process of rebuilding it, but am apprehensive because I've heard a lot of stuff about needing to have it balanced when installing a new wheel. The turbos I rebuild on the equipment at work that is not a concern. Is it really necessary? Has anybody not had one balanced and how was the outcome. Thanks in advance for all the great info

 

A stock 7.3 gtp38 turbo does not require balancing as part of the rebuild.
The compressor wheel (stock or a replacement billet wheel), and the turbine wheel/shaft are independently balanced at the time of.the manufacture.

Now, if something is damaged,such as a bent shaft or chipped/bent blades on a wheel; that could cause an imbalance leading to catastrophic failure. If you find physical damage, then you replace the part.

 

I have rebuilt 4 different stock turbos with new parts, or donor turbo used parts, and none were balanced. All have not suffered any failure to this date. If I had a facility close by that could have done the balancing, I would have considered it. Most were done under time restraints; not making it an option.

 

Thanks you guys made my day its the last piece of the project excited to get my truck back on the road

 

I've read that you're supposed to prelube the bearings before assembly...?

 

Yes. They are just brass so I soaked them overnight in a Tupperware of engine oil.

I recently rebuilt mine and ditched my wheel in favor of a billet 4/4 from Clay at Riffraff. I followed his instructions and have not had any issues:

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conten...structions.pdf

If you haven't read through the instructions make sure that you have a 1/4" drive 12 point 8mm deep socket. There are 4 recessed bolts you have to reach during the process and this socket is the ONLY way you will get them out.

 

I used engine assembly lube when I did mine. Its nice and sticky, so it stays put from the time you assemble it and until it gets pressurized engine oil.

There is only one of the 4 bolts that has restricted access, through a hole that is too small for most sockets to pass thru. I used an 8mm wrench, with another larger wrench on it, as leverage. I also pre-soaked the bolts with Kroil for a day or so, plus I used a plumbing torch with MAPP gas to preheat them just before removal.

 

The idea is to have to oil on the bushings until the engine provides oil on its own. IE no dry spinning of the turbo on the first start up. I used gear lube as its thick and wont drain away as it will be a few days till i get mine started. Plus I had it on the shelf right next to me

 

Careful with that. Many gear lubes contain very high levels of sulfur, and other chemicals, that may attack the soft bronze bushings in the turbo. Also, keep in mind that whatever you put in the turbo will wind up in the motor, including in the injectors. Yes, its a very small amount, so you'll probably get away with it. But, its not a good idea.
Also, "thick" isn't always the magic pill. It may be so "thick" that it blocks the oil passages and prevents engine oil from flowing through the tiny passages, at least initially.

 

I went to Sears and bought the socket. I knew that all the work I was going to be doing was going to be enough of an ordeal without having to engineer tools. I sprayed all my bolts with PB Blaster the evening before I took the turbo apart and everything came out fine. I figured 12 years and 280K miles on top of the engine would have made things more difficult than what it turned out to be.