While I have my gas tank out I want to wire brush any rusty areas under and around the tank area and paint them. I would like to find something locally available and that could be done in one day....

I have been reading mixed reviews on how long rustoleum rust reformer lasts , maybe allot depends on the prep and severity of the rust.

Another product that i can get local is Ospho,
Ospho
It is available at my local Ace hardware
You have to apply it one day and wait till the next day to paint over it, that would be ok as I guess I could work on replacing the metal fuel lines along the frame and install the tank the next day.. It does not require rinsing..

There is a por 15 distributor a few miles away from my house. According to their directions though you have to rinse it off with water that would require waiting longer for everything to dry..

What do you all think?

 

I've used and would heartily highly recommend POR-15's system----not sure I'd spend the money for just part of that though.

Treating your bare metal tank to resist rust won't be a single day or few hour process. In order to get the best adhesion of POR-15's top coat (silver only please!) you need to use their method.

Some have used the Ospho brand as a pre-treatment along with POR-15's top coats but honestly I don't have any experience with mixing the products.

IF you want to use POR-15's whole system after the water wash a hair dryer or variable temperature heat gun could force dry the tank exterior. I'd prefer the hair dryer because they tend to have more CFM's than the heat gun.

Taking the tank to someone local probably would take a lot longer than a few days, not even sure who'd do such a thing in short order.

So that's what I know Annaleigh.........

 

Auto parts stores carry Marhyde One-Step, which requires no rinsing, and you can paint over it when it's completely dry.

Do I correctly understand that you are only treating the outside of the tank? In any case, be very careful of any kind of heat gun or hair drier around gasoline fumes.

(Edit) Re-reading, it looks like you aren't treating the tank at all; never mind, LOL.

 

Annaleigh's tank is new otherwise and naturally I'd not have recommended a heat source applied to the outside---sure pemding disaster there.

 

Welding gas tanks is easy.
You just flush em good, fill it up with water and make sure there is air under where you weld. I've done it many times.

 

Thanks all.. Seattle Smitty,, The parts stores around here dont have the Marhyde One-Step in stock... have to order it..

JWA,, Yes the POR15 would be expensive for just a little area.. I wasn't planing on doing the tank right now... it is galvanized and has a light coating of grease on it... The tank straps are not rusty at all, just the bolts but I am going to chase the threads with a die.

i just want to do the inside of the frame and the cross member in the front and back of the tank.
I think I am going to pick up a $27 dollar gallon of the Ospho, some Rustoilum primer, and some flat black Rustoilum paint...

I think for prep, from many articles i have been reading, wire brush the area and wipe it down with a rag. Maybe try some denatured alcohol on the rag.. let it dry a few minutes and then spray on the Ospho. let it sit a minute or two and then spray again using a scotch brite pad to rub it in good. Let that dry over night and wipe the area down one more time before priming..

The worst rust appears to be only on the cross members. The main frame rails are fairly clean. Some other concerns are the seat and seat belt bolts. Perhaps I might play around cleaning them a little as they are easy to get to.
being a small area and a few bolts, it would give me a chance to see how the Ospho and Rustoilum holds up before going any farther... i am guessing less then $50 bucks for materials.

the cross member at the rear of the tank
<a href="http://s472.photobucket.com/user/Annaleigh_123/media/WP_20151021_17_15_49_Pro.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr88/Annaleigh_123/WP_20151021_17_15_49_Pro.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo WP_20151021_17_15_49_Pro.jpg"/></a>

cross member in front of the tank
<a href="http://s472.photobucket.com/user/Annaleigh_123/media/b67a272c-9fc8-472e-a446-d9703ba264c4.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr88/Annaleigh_123/b67a272c-9fc8-472e-a446-d9703ba264c4.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo b67a272c-9fc8-472e-a446-d9703ba264c4.jpg"/></a>


I think i will also drop the receiver hitch too as it has some rust on it and the fuel sending unit wires go into a harness just in front of the receiver. The wires appear to have a bit of cracked insulation right in that area and i need to address that.. ..

 

The inside bottom of the old gas tank just as bad as the old sending unit! Ill try top get a good flashlight to drop in there and get a pic or two...

 

Vettex, some guys say they have still had excessive dramas in trying to weld tanks after washing and then mostly filling the tank, as you describe. My dodge is, having done all the cleaning and prep, get some dry ice from the grocery and drop it in the water (with which you mostly filled the tank). That fills any remaining air space with CO2. So far, never had any excitement.

 

Dry ice is a good idea !

 

Rust converters

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Eastwood Rust Converter | Rust Converters | Auto Rust Converter




Rust Converter Spray, Extend Rust Neutralizer from Loctite Adhesives

 

Another one that autobody shops used to like is Rust-Mort. And hardware stores probably still sell Naval Jelly, tho' I think you have to wash off the residue and dry it fast, IIRC.