Talking about a 2000 Ford f150 5.4 engine with around 150,000 miles. It won't start, won't even try. It just clicks when you turn the key.
When this started happening I was in the parking lot of the local Walmart. I flagged down a friend who tried to jump it. It didn't go, but he had to.
So I called another friend who turned the key while I crossed the bolts on the solenoid. That worked. Got it home, next day my husband started it up and left for an auction. He stopped at Walmart first. When he came out, it wouldn't start. (Yeah, I thought it was Walmart, too. But it won't start in the driveway, either.)
He replaced battery, it was seven years old, the posts were a little corroded. He cleaned the wires, replaced both worn cable ends. It still wouldn't start. Just clicked.
I inspected ground wires, all appeared secure and without corrosion, (I only found two places where the ground attaches to the frame. Did I miss any?)
I checked every fuse, (that I could find-still haven't found the ignition fuse. Anyone care to share a picture or good description of that?) All checked out OK visually and with multimeter.
I don't know how to check the relays that are in either fuse box. If someone could explain that, I would be able to share the results.
The cables and connections from the battery to the starter appear secure. There's no obvious corrosion and no apparent breaks that might be shorting them out.
He replaced the solenoid on the starter. It started. Twice. (Once again he was sitting in the parking lot at Walmart. Need to stop going there.) Then, all it did was click.
So we replaced the starter relay, or whatever it's called, on the firewall. It started six or seven times. We got it home, where it's been sitting in the drive. And I've been on the internet researching the problem every free moment, since.
I replaced the neutral safety switch, or whatever THAT thing is called, carefully lining up the lines for neutral. Back up lights are working in reverse, seems to be correct. Got the shifter lined up correctly with the corresponding letters for each gear. We were thinking maybe the computer wasn't "seeing" what gear we were in. None worked.
Jumping from the positive side of the battery to the 'S' bolt on the starter relay it will start. It can also be jump-started at that relay.
With the key in starting position, black probe on the negative battery post, red probe on the 'S' bolt there are (approximately), 12 volts.
I pulled fuse #18 in the fuse box under the hood, and checked for voltage, (ignition still in start position). There was none, (Zero voltage), but it did make a fast clicking noise that sounded like it was coming from around the steering column.
I replaced the fuse, tried starting it while jiggling the shifter. It didn't start.
Again with the key in start position, on the solenoid that's connected to the starter, there were 12 volts between the bolt that goes to the starter
and the other large bolt I assume is wired to the starter relay on the firewall.
Between the large bolt on the solenoid, (the one that doesn't go to the starter), and ground there are 12 volts.
I'm lost trying to determine what all this means. I can't find the ignition fuse to check it.
Tomorrow, or I should say later today, I'm going to jump across the starter relay and drive to O'Reilly's in hopes they can test the starter and tell me, accurately, if the starter is bad.
If anyone reading this has any answers or means of proving-or disproving- what the solution to this is, I'd sure appreciate if you would email me! Thank you all ahead of time for your help!
-Janet

 

There are no fuses involved in your issue.
Intermittent starting;
Open battery inter cell connector,
Cable terminals,
cables,
connections,
Start relay,
Starter.
.
At the mileage, you likely have to replace the starter due to worm brushes that hang up in their holders.
At the same time it pays to replace the start relay for it's low cost.
Be sure all connections are clean and tight.
Your coming into winter so make the repairs good.
.
Measuring resting voltage in a starting system means very little because it's not under load conditions.
The vehicle mileage, intermittent failures, and how it acts are the only keys to what's wrong.
Good luck.

 

Thank you for taking the time to respond. Much appreciated!

New battery
New cable terminals
New start relay
New solenoid
Connections seem clean and tight

Today I couldn't get it to start by jumping the start relay. It previously had every try.
Tomorrow I'm pulling off the starter and hauling it to parts store for bench test.

 

When I had this problem it was the metal strap on the starter the ties the main battery cable to the solenoid on the starter that was rusted through. I fixed it the first time and it lasted a few years, when it happened again I replaced the starter and covered the strap with expoxy first.

 

I desperately need this 2000 ford f150 (5.4) to run!

It started with a click sound. I cleaned the cable ends, the battery posts, I couldn't get it to jump. I crossed the solenoid and it started.

We've replaced:

the battery
the cable ends
the starter
the starter relay
the neutral safety switch

We've checked the ground cables, (I found two of them, are there more?), they were tight and appeared clean and secure.

I've checked every fuse in the box under the hood AND inside the cab, visually, and with the multimeter.

Are there more fuses I haven't located?

I don't know how to check the relays.

The OBDII comes up saying there are no codes in this vehicle

I don't know what else to do! Please, someone, give me an idea that I haven't tried yet!!

 

I'm starting to think if this beast ever starts again, we're gonna go visit a CHEVY dealer! (That's frustrated!)
I guess I'll go test the fusible links...Then try to reset the pcm

 

Janet, did you replace the starter?
I don't see where you did.
I already explained that the brushes wear and hang up.
A test may not pick this up because they become temperature and mechanical sensitive and could past a static test and still be faulty.
The computer cannot monitor the start system therefore no codes are possible.

Good luck.

 

Only other thing I can think of that you haven't already done is the electrical switch under the dash that the key operates. But that's just a guess.

 

Lets go over this cranking sequence.
Key in ignition.
Is there an after market remote start system involved?
If yes could it be the issue? If no, tuning to start position moves a rod that operates a switch at the bottom of the steering column.
Is the rod operation faulty, is the start switch faulty?
.
When the switch operates, it provides battery through the digital transmission selector in the park and neutral positions only.
Is the selector in the correct position or faulty?
.
If not, battery is passed to the firewall start solenoid to close a high current path from the battery to the starter. Is that happening?
.
At the starter a small, lead powers a second solenoid inside the starter that also closes heavy contacts and mechanically engages the flywheel to turn the motor.
Is that happening.
.
There is nothing else to the system.
You have to be missing it at some point.
This is why one needs to understand the operation and prove the failure point before replacing parts that end up in frustration when the parts don't fix the issue.
If you feel spending many thousands of $ on another truck rather than fixing a start problem is good economics, then be my guest.
Good luck.

 

Similar situation
Ended up having to have it towed to my mechanic. He replaced the starter and never had an issue after that.

 

Good to hear you have the issue solved.
Sorry to sound a little tough on it.
I've been through this already and replaced the starter and start relay on the firewall and had it over with.
If were the battery or Alternator it would have been a case of slow cranking or a low battery condition.
Thanks for letting everyone know.
Good luck.

 

been there. these late model starters seem to crank good until the brushes hang up. then no start. I just put a new starter on my 2001 F150.....starts now...