1951 F3 marmon herrington
#106
#107
#108
I noted that your pictures show there's real rust in your truck. When you go pick it up I would suggest having four good wheels and tires in hand to mount before trying to move it. The two with tires have been holding snow melt for decades and might have internal rust that you can't see. Here's a pic of one I aired up to move a truck around in the barn. It made a big impression. Stu
#109
That's quite a sight ! I was planning on finding 4 temporary wheels and tires to get it rolling. The PO said that He didn't think any of the local tire shops would touch those old wheels. My original thought was to mount some tires on those wheels, only use a minimum amount of air to roll with, maybe 20lbs or so. That's when he told me "good luck finding somebody who will be willing to mount anything on those old rusty wheels". So the hunt is on for some replacements. I'll have a closer look at the old ones later to see if they are safe enough to be used. Dave
#110
Even the old shop that I've used locally has changed ownership, bought out by a chain, and will no longer work on the wheels having the solid/continuous ring type rims like your Budd 44820s. I think it's because they aren't as easy to service, and they are so seldom seen anymore there's no point in training young techs to do them. You will have an easier time getting the truck rolling if you can find a set of the 19.5s used on the old motor homes. As long as the old tires hold air you'll be able to get it rolling. Stu
#111
Yeah that's the direction i"m working in,looking for motor home wheels. Is it just the front wheels from the motor homes that I'm looking for or are the rear duals also a possibility?
As much as I would like to keep the original wheels a safe and more reliable set has to be found, not only to get it rolling but also to keep it rolling! Btw, where can I find one of those "pork chops" that was mentioned earlier? Dave
As much as I would like to keep the original wheels a safe and more reliable set has to be found, not only to get it rolling but also to keep it rolling! Btw, where can I find one of those "pork chops" that was mentioned earlier? Dave
#112
You should be good with just a 1&1/2" socket with big breaker bar and i would suggest about a 6 foot pipe. For the singles. Unless of course your going to be removing some 19.5"s wheels from the donor RV yourself.
The porkchop isnt always 100% neccesary. As long as you get the outer nut 1.5" nut off without the inner cone nut turning or loosening up.
Ive on occasion had to retighten the whole cone and nut assembly to just get the outer nut off by itself without having to use the porkchop.
I ordered mine from Sun tools i think? Or picked it up a local specialty tool store.
The porkchop isnt always 100% neccesary. As long as you get the outer nut 1.5" nut off without the inner cone nut turning or loosening up.
Ive on occasion had to retighten the whole cone and nut assembly to just get the outer nut off by itself without having to use the porkchop.
I ordered mine from Sun tools i think? Or picked it up a local specialty tool store.
#113
Rear wheels are the same as fronts, just turned backwards. Pulling rear duals is harder with the pork chop because there isn't much room to swing the BFH inside the concave dish. Use of a torque multiplier or long 4' pipe on the end of your socket wrench would do a better job. The best job is done by having the local OTR road service truck come out and use their 1" drive Chicago Pneumatic on the nuts. I love mine. I bought my pork chop at the local farm and home store. Stu
Edit - don't be fooled by a motor home with five lug nuts on the front and ten on the rear. It's a Chevy that uses 10 lug X 7.25" pattern wheels. Only five are used on the front axle with a blanking plate covering the five unused lug holes. Ford and Dodge based Class A motor homes all have 5 lug x 8" pattern. Avoid the Class C motor homes having van based cabs. Stu
Edit - don't be fooled by a motor home with five lug nuts on the front and ten on the rear. It's a Chevy that uses 10 lug X 7.25" pattern wheels. Only five are used on the front axle with a blanking plate covering the five unused lug holes. Ford and Dodge based Class A motor homes all have 5 lug x 8" pattern. Avoid the Class C motor homes having van based cabs. Stu
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#115
Ive seen complete RVs for free or really cheap. But ive always avoided getting that deep into it just for some wheels. Someone once told me the free ones come with holding tanks that are full!
Plenty of old rvs still around here if you cant find any locally or close by let me know. Les schwab does free shipping if your getting the wheels sandblasted and powder coated.
My wheels were 35 each to have done.
Plenty of old rvs still around here if you cant find any locally or close by let me know. Les schwab does free shipping if your getting the wheels sandblasted and powder coated.
My wheels were 35 each to have done.
#116
Ive seen complete RVs for free or really cheap. But ive always avoided getting that deep into it just for some wheels. Someone once told me the free ones come with holding tanks that are full!
Plenty of old rvs still around here if you cant find any locally or close by let me know. Les schwab does free shipping if your getting the wheels sandblasted and powder coated.
My wheels were 35 each to have done.
Plenty of old rvs still around here if you cant find any locally or close by let me know. Les schwab does free shipping if your getting the wheels sandblasted and powder coated.
My wheels were 35 each to have done.
#119