Ok, now that our 5er is just over a year old, I'm finally going through it and fixing the very few shortcomings - shelves, coat hooks, towel racks --- and a very slow draining black tank.

That black tank - even so full that I can see the glop floating in the angled pipe from the toilet, flows out the drain way slower then any previous trailer we have owned. My guess is that those great craftsmen from the Elkhart area left some or all of the plumbing cutouts to cover at least partially that drain line or valve. I'm considering cutting an access hole in the top of the tank to take a look and make whatever corrections are needed. Not a fun job to slop around in the muck but the 'enjoyment' of doing a tank flush every couple of dumps using the flexible wand I made up is starting to wear thin.

Is there any sort of glue that is known to work on these tanks? If so, my after repair tank closing will be to reinforce the patch with some pop riveted tabs, glue the patch back then fill in the seam with something that will stick to anything like Dicor

 

What I would do first is after dumping.....put water in the tank....a few gallons would work and add just a little Riddex. Let it sit for a couple of days for the stuff to work then drain and flush If it was just kinda clogged with anything other than a cut-out or something......Riddex will have taken care of it.

 

If it was a poo pyramid, that would be my 'fix' but this tank has been slow since the very first dump last August and we did buy the 5er new.

Good suggestion though and it will get some for the 100 mile trip back home in a couple weeks so at least I can start my project with a clean(er) tank

 

I know you said since new but I still suspect a Poo pyramid, TP, a couple of feminine products and a grandkids toy or two. I don't envy you.

 

They dropped the cut-out in the tank or left something else in there, would be my call. It would be a bad news bear, but if you cut an access panel through the belly, you could them cut the 3" right after the tank outlet (I use a sawsall and fine tooth), check inside (tank empty of course) and then push whatever is blocking the outlet out of the way and to where you could reach it through the closet ring. Use a flexible coupling to reconnect. I don't like the idea of cutting the tank.

Just a thought,

Steve

 

Army - no fem products (that 'age' factor) nor GC toys as none live close enough nor have been in this 5er while being used. There may be a small pyramid, but the tank has been cleaned pretty diligently with a homemade 'gadget' along with pretty high water pressure.

Steve - I can access the tank from the basement if I pull the inner panels out - which needs to be done as well for install of the surge protector. My hole saw selection goes to over 4" so, not a problem with opening things up. I really don't want to cut the bottom open unless absolutely needed. After I posted this thread, used some different internet search terms and came up with a 'glue' or patch kit that looks usable. Have you used it or have any knowledge of it? Plasti-Mend Black
They have a video as well showing how to use it.

Oh, and I did find your company blog while wandering the 'net a couple days ago - very nicely done.

 

Have you tried to "back flush".

 

Dave,

I wouldn't cut the bottom of the tank regardless, just the three ABS connecting to the outlet, but if you are going to use a hole saw, by report the adhesives made for repair work well. I have never used them as I always try to make repairs so when I am done no one can tell I worked on it.

Historically you use good judgment so I leave it to you as what will work best in your case. You have the ball on this one.

The blog, thanks. I just do that for my personally enjoyment, but it got crazy with phone calls after a while so you will see I got really direct saying email me with questions, do not call.

 

You might use an inspection camera to take a look in the tank via the toilet drain. Removing the toilet might also improve access. An inspection camera going up the drain might also work. At just over a year it sounds like you are out of warranty.
I'm also of the opinion that it's construction debris left behind or something dropped into the toilet while it sat on the dealer's lot.

 

Yep, that was my first attempts to see what's happened in there but most of those cameras, especially low end, including mine, and even pulling the toilet (unstick/repair the ball valve) really don't have enough light even with 6 LEDs to penetrate the gloom or are easily manipulated with two +/- 30* turns going to the tank as I've already gone that exercise with two different versions.

 

You were rather 'forceful' in saying to email rather then phone. To me that's a better way as it gives you a chance to think about knotty questions as well as saving your billable time.

To any of the other folks here, you will have to look for and at Steve's blog. It is very informative and well worth your time

 

I know my demand for email rather than phone calls on my blog borders on obnoxious, but saying please just didn't work. I got calls at midnight, 9:00 on Sunday nights, 5:00 in the morning, from Alaska, and one caller wanted me to walk his technician how to repair his refrigerator. It was just completely nuts.

Right now I am behind as I want to blog about the over-temperature switch on the big Norcold cooling coils and a couple of other things. The fun part is I am not trying to sell anything or even get customers. I always enjoyed writing, but doing for the industry wass really tough as you are never allowed to say the kind of things that get said in private. Now I say whatever I want and just try not to get sued.

Steve

 

Did you try running the camera up through the drain itself, rather then down the toilet?
You might get the perspective you were looking for?

 

Neither camera has that long a lead - plus I'm not brave enough to look from that 'end'

 

It might be better calling plumber with a photo snake to determine that, rather then a big knife. Cheaper too?