I tend to be suspicious of mechanical "fuel problems" when the system is so entirely dependent on electrical components with known service issues, but it's easy to test and get hard facts on to rule out.

Even crank though, and started pretty smooth, which makes me think even more it's a sensor/electrical issue. ICP on an '03 is a PITA to get to, but maybe that's a starting point.

If it really is fuel drain back, I'd expect some kind of jackhammering from passing air through the injectors, no way he cranks that much with air in the secondary filter without at least some getting down into the fuel rails. When they run dry on fuel, they can still hiccup after several miles of driving, takes time to clear all the air.

Check the points and rotor people, basic tune ups every 10k

 

Well, he is a friend of mine and a business owner here. He is not a mechanic for sure. I didn't even catch it, but I knew what he was talking about.

 

I'd also like to know why the radiator hose is double clamped? Is it old and needs replaced? Is there too much pressure in the system? You also need to get the oil temp reading warm it up to temp drive it for 15-20 miles flat ground and get the coolant and oil temps under those conditions.

 

It is double clamped because those constant tension clamps can leak. Rather than drain the coolant and remove the clamp you can easily add a worm clamp and leave the old one on there. No big deal.

 

Seats can be repaired without spending too much
Auto Upholstery | Leather Seat Covers | Foam Cushions | Home page

 

Yup.

Usually an upholstery shop can fix a few panels for reasonable prices as well. It cost me around 125 to have my drivers seat repaired. Granted I have cloth seats but I dropped off the seat one day and in a few hours they had replaced 2 panels of the bottom cover and reassembled it.

 

I firmly disagree with the whole "bad aftermarket cap" ordeal. For example, NAPAs WIX filter is a larger unit, which requires the larger cap. It is imprinted with "non-reusable cap" right on it to save people from using it with a filter that is too short, resulting in a no-filtration condition. That being said, I have found trucks (came to me with problems) with motorcraft filters in the taller cap (easy to spot with felt seal) where the non-filtration condition resulted in a clogged IPR screen/no-start.

I think people just got it in their heads to not use the aftermarket stuff because it saves them from remembering that they have an aftermarket filter/cap combo installed.

That aside, this truck likely has a dusted turbo and I'll bet that he's reused the aftermarket cap with a motorcraft filter. From the looks of everything else, it's likely the hard start could be from dirty fuel filters.

.....and, my god, look at the coolant in that bottle. Yikes.

If you pause the video at 0.08, you can see thick grease on the engine block. I have money on the fan clutch just spinning freely.

Once it's running, will it boost to 20?

 

Another reason to use the Motorcraft filter.

 

I don't understand what you mean here.

 

Thanks Rusty Axlerod for the great video. If I buy the truck, I will definitely replace that.

 

seat bottoms $215, did mine last weekend and about 2 hours with a video on-line to help. Arm rests $70.

Degas looks to be completely full, probably why its wiped off as well.
Anybody from the forum near you with experience, maybe they could help with a knowledgeable eye?

Cold start issues could be stiction or FICM and/or glow plugs as mentioned before.
Trucks not hard to work on, just time consuming because of the extra stuff to remove getting to what you want.

Get your Torque straightened out.. did you load the PIDS for ford 6.0. probably why you couldn't see them.

Most every truck you see has at some time been neglected by an UN-knowledgeable owner. Come here, get the truck straight, why we all are here, our trucks were probably in this category to begin with and like you, seeking a fix.

Be prepared to do some maintenance right away. Good Luck with your decision!

 

I have no idea. I wish I was near one of you for the assistance.
Is there anyway to check the FICM? Not sure what the PIDS is.

 

yes... get your Torque Pro set to read custom PIDS (gauges) and the FICM will come up, as will oil temps. Do a search here or google it and how to set it to use Ford 6.0 gauges.

Post another thread asking if anyone is near your city for help.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html

 

I figured out some other settings on my Torque Pro. Is it FICM main power or FICM Logic Power?
I know I need to see Coolant temp, EOT, but what other guages should I monitor?