Short Bed to Replace Long Bed
#1
Short Bed to Replace Long Bed
Greetings All, I am new to the forum and look forward to participating.
I have a '53 F-1, flathead 6, long bed, I am getting ready to get it going again, has sat for at least 15 years. I may want to swap a Ford v-8 in sometime but for now it would be great to get the FH 6 fired up. I like the look of short beds and am wondering if it is possible to to a straight swap from long to short bed on this frame, or are the frames specific to the model?
Thanks for your anticipated assistance, I love to see our vintage trucks/cars on the road!
(Just got my '49 Buick Super Conv. on the road, great fun)
I have a '53 F-1, flathead 6, long bed, I am getting ready to get it going again, has sat for at least 15 years. I may want to swap a Ford v-8 in sometime but for now it would be great to get the FH 6 fired up. I like the look of short beds and am wondering if it is possible to to a straight swap from long to short bed on this frame, or are the frames specific to the model?
Thanks for your anticipated assistance, I love to see our vintage trucks/cars on the road!
(Just got my '49 Buick Super Conv. on the road, great fun)
#2
#4
Yes, F1 is 48-52, for 53-56 designation changed to F100. The F1 frame was 114" WB with 6 1/2' bed. I'm not sure there was an 8' bed option on the F1. The F100 with 6 1/2' bed was 110". The F100 with the 8' bed option (called the express bed) was 118" WB. So you can determine what frame you are working with by measuring the WB. Also the F1 frame narrows to 32" outside to outside in front of the cab, F100 frames were parallel 34" end to end.
#5
Short Bed to Replace Long Bed
Gentlemen, thank you for your welcome and prompt replies.
I'll double check vin and chassis numbers, I was sure docs say 53, but it is a FH-6 and has F-I emblems.
The bed has rust at drivers side corner which caused me to think about the swap out, but if I can't weld repair perhaps a new bed could be purchased.
I do like keeping things stock if possible, don't think I'll be building a show truck but would like to get her going as I truly enjoy seeing these on the road and sharing them with others. I appreciate the advice, I'm certain to have more questions nice to know you are so helpful sharing your wisdom and experience.
I'll double check vin and chassis numbers, I was sure docs say 53, but it is a FH-6 and has F-I emblems.
The bed has rust at drivers side corner which caused me to think about the swap out, but if I can't weld repair perhaps a new bed could be purchased.
I do like keeping things stock if possible, don't think I'll be building a show truck but would like to get her going as I truly enjoy seeing these on the road and sharing them with others. I appreciate the advice, I'm certain to have more questions nice to know you are so helpful sharing your wisdom and experience.
#6
Two quick measurements will tell you a lot: WB (center of front wheel to center of rear wheel) will be 110", 114" or 118" (or possibly longer). Measure front frame width, outside to outside just behind front bumper, should be 32" or 34". There is enough difference in the measurements that there will be no doubt which it is.
Also F1 cab will have door handles you turn to open, the F100 doors have closed loop handles with pushbuttons to open.
It's possible someone backdated the FH-6 into a later chassis, but Ford stopped offering the FH 6 in the F1 after 51. The larger FH6 was used only in the F6 Big jobs thru 53.
You really need to get your paperwork and stamped serial# on the frame to match if you plan to ever get plates for it, especially in CA. Don't put any money into it (or even purchase it if you haven't already) until you have a current title in your name.
Also F1 cab will have door handles you turn to open, the F100 doors have closed loop handles with pushbuttons to open.
It's possible someone backdated the FH-6 into a later chassis, but Ford stopped offering the FH 6 in the F1 after 51. The larger FH6 was used only in the F6 Big jobs thru 53.
You really need to get your paperwork and stamped serial# on the frame to match if you plan to ever get plates for it, especially in CA. Don't put any money into it (or even purchase it if you haven't already) until you have a current title in your name.
#7
F-1's, built from 48-52, were never offered in long bed form. It sounds like someone may have put a bunch of pieces together to make a truck, and hopefully they had some correct papers for it, and not sold you a total bill of goods. Long beds are not reproduced, so if you stay with the 8' bed, you'll have to fix the one you have if you can't find a better one, which are tough to find.
Another way to tell what you have it to count your lug nuts. 5 lug on the F-1, 8 lugs on F 2&3 long bed trucks.
Another way to tell what you have it to count your lug nuts. 5 lug on the F-1, 8 lugs on F 2&3 long bed trucks.
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#8
Gentlemen, thank you for your welcome and prompt replies.
I'll double check vin and chassis numbers, I was sure docs say 53, but it is a FH-6 and has F-I emblems.
The bed has rust at drivers side corner which caused me to think about the swap out, but if I can't weld repair perhaps a new bed could be purchased.
I do like keeping things stock if possible, don't think I'll be building a show truck but would like to get her going as I truly enjoy seeing these on the road and sharing them with others. I appreciate the advice, I'm certain to have more questions nice to know you are so helpful sharing your wisdom and experience.
I'll double check vin and chassis numbers, I was sure docs say 53, but it is a FH-6 and has F-I emblems.
The bed has rust at drivers side corner which caused me to think about the swap out, but if I can't weld repair perhaps a new bed could be purchased.
I do like keeping things stock if possible, don't think I'll be building a show truck but would like to get her going as I truly enjoy seeing these on the road and sharing them with others. I appreciate the advice, I'm certain to have more questions nice to know you are so helpful sharing your wisdom and experience.
There are 3 locations where the serial number (they didn't have 'vins' back then) The passenger side frame rail which is the only number for legal purposes
48-52 near the motor mount
53-56 between the axle and the firewall Looking from the R/F (between headlight and radiator, toward the firewall. The little flashlight on the frame is shining on the serial number
. Patent plate pass side firewall
The rating plate located on the inside of the glovebox
1948-early 51
Late 1951-1952
1953- this was later moved to the drivers door post (A pillar)
#9
Rating plate wasn't moved from glove box door to door post until 56. It's nice if the # on the rating plate matches the frame stamping, but only the frame stamping is the legal identifier. If the rating place is gone and you get a title for the frame #, the aftermarket suppliers like Classic Haulers (for the 48-52) or Mid Fifty (for 53-56) can have made a new repro rating plate with the correct stampings for your truck. Before you get any ideas, they will not sell a replacement stamped rating plate without a copy of your current valid title. CA is especially strict about this.
#10
#11
#12
ahha! Clues starting to fall into place. Note the F1,2,3 all used the same cab, hood, inner fenders. The F3 had wider fenders with much larger wheel openings for the larger wheels used on the F3. Now check # stamped on frame (rating plate in 51 was attached to inside of glove box door.)
As said the 8' bed is not reproduced, it is longer and wider than the F1 6.5' bed. The F3 frame could be cut to take 6' bed, but you would also need F1 front and rear fenders. Rear fenders are repro in steel, but $$$, front fenders are not repro except in fiberglass.
After you discover more details about what you have, and get paperwork straight it will be time to develop a build plan. A good build plan is important as it will save you a lot of time and money. Most just jump into the middle of the build, tearing things apart and making changes without any real thoughts about what the truck is going to be "when it grows up" or why they are changing things except it seems like that's what you're supposed to do. In this topic I posted my suggestion on how to develop a build plan: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...1955-f250.html
Since it looks like you have a 51 (affectionately referred to as a "monkey face" for its horizontal grill bars and headlights) I'd suggest you give Classic Haulers www.classichaulers.com a toll free call and request one of their free print catalogs. It contains a lot of really useful info as well as all the parts available. The gals there are very knowledgeable, helpful and really understand the concept of customer service. Highly recommended!
As said the 8' bed is not reproduced, it is longer and wider than the F1 6.5' bed. The F3 frame could be cut to take 6' bed, but you would also need F1 front and rear fenders. Rear fenders are repro in steel, but $$$, front fenders are not repro except in fiberglass.
After you discover more details about what you have, and get paperwork straight it will be time to develop a build plan. A good build plan is important as it will save you a lot of time and money. Most just jump into the middle of the build, tearing things apart and making changes without any real thoughts about what the truck is going to be "when it grows up" or why they are changing things except it seems like that's what you're supposed to do. In this topic I posted my suggestion on how to develop a build plan: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...1955-f250.html
Since it looks like you have a 51 (affectionately referred to as a "monkey face" for its horizontal grill bars and headlights) I'd suggest you give Classic Haulers www.classichaulers.com a toll free call and request one of their free print catalogs. It contains a lot of really useful info as well as all the parts available. The gals there are very knowledgeable, helpful and really understand the concept of customer service. Highly recommended!
#13
I think AX stayed up too late last night.
The '51/'52 are affectionately known as 'Bucktooth' or 'Manure Spreader' and the '48-'50 are the Monkey Face models.
Each has a following here - but we all share parts, help, advice and stories.
Now how about some pictures of your truck.
Tom
#14
Ooops! yep, I blame it on a lack of sleep and/or working on Gary's F1 too much for mixing my years. His is a compilation of various year's parts by the PO. It's registered as a 52 (I believe) but has a monkey face front end on it.
Let me try to redeem myself by including this drawing of the F series frame:
Note the pinching of the rails forwards of the firewall, and the 2 curved motormount extensions between the rails and front crossmember not found on the F100 frame. The extensions are frequently removed for room during an engine swap.
Let me try to redeem myself by including this drawing of the F series frame:
Note the pinching of the rails forwards of the firewall, and the 2 curved motormount extensions between the rails and front crossmember not found on the F100 frame. The extensions are frequently removed for room during an engine swap.