Since acquiring my new headache 6.0hhh and getting it running, I'm in the process of assembling needed parts list and budget for future bulletproofing.

I know my engine has the ICP sensor on the valve cover, has a 2004 sticker on valve cover and has the wavy oil supply rail. Build date is 12/03.

I am unsure if my engine has the failure prone STC fitting or not. From what I know the 03-04 round aluminum pumps have a good fitting but the pumps go bad and these usually have the log style oil rail. The 05-07 cast iron pumps hardly ever fails, but the fitting does and these have the wavy rail.

I tried looking around for exact info but I'm still unsure. Are the late 04s the ******* child that has the wavy oil rail and old pump? Or does every engine with the wavy rail have the cast iron pump?

If its the aluminum pump, can and should it be swapped out with the cast iron one along with the updated STC fitting and the right cover or just leave it alone?

My next actions will be to do a cooling system flush and clean procedure. Before installing new coolant and bypass filtration I plan on welding up the EGR cooler and replacing the oil cooler. My turbo is also shot and since all that area will be exposed I want to address HPOP issues while in there.

My head gaskets are still holding (degas pressure holds around 8PSI and cap is good) so I'd like to skip pulling the heads, but I want an opinion. If I'm going this far should I replace gaskets and install studs or just pray? I won't be towing or hauling excessively heavy loads (4wheel pop up camper fully loaded is about 1300 lbs) and planning on using a SCT tuner for fuel economy

I already have the blue spring update and BPD FICM. This is my list So far. What am I missing and what is the consensus on items followed by "?" Anything I'm leaving out?

Oil cooler
Weld up EGR cooler Exhaust ports
Turbo
Turbo updated drain
Updated standpipes and dummy plugs
Reseal injector cups
STC fitting
Cast Iron HPOP if I have Al one (If possible)
Glow plug harnesses
Both engine wire harnesses
SCT tuner livewire ts+
Bypass coolant filter
'08 trans pan and filter
steel trans valve body plugs
crank case vent relocation mod

Head Gaskets and ARP studs and crack test heads maybe?
Water pump?
Thermostat?
all Injectors?

Thanks for your input.

 

LOL--yes you have a "transition" engine between the early and current motor. Your engine has the 03/04 pump, not the 05 and up pump. To change to the later pump is a pretty good job (including pulling the engine) and you'd be better off to change to an upgraded HPOP.

 

Does this year model have the failure prone dummy plugs?

 

The plug failures didn't really start until the 05 motors, but yes, they use the same dummy plugs and stand pipes.

 

Riding on Timbo's recommendation....

If you plan on pulling the injectors to reseal them, it'd be worth going to the newer style dummy plugs and standpipes. Depending on the condition, you may be able to reuse them, but without the newer backup nylon ring, it's not worth the risk.

Here's what I would do:

-Unless you're finding fuel in coolant or vice-versa, leave the injector cups alone. On a 7.3 they're more prone to cracking, but not so much on the 6.0s.

-Since you're going to be that deep into the engine, replacing the HPOP with a Dieselsite HPOP would be best. The Dieselsite pump is made of a stronger material and has upgraded internals that overcome the issues in the stock pump.

-Reseal the injectors top to bottom, alliant makes a kit that includes what the Ford kit doesn't. Riffraff Diesel sells it: Alliant 6.0L Injector O-rings 03-07 - Riffraff Diesel Performance

-It's a wise decision to replace the engine harness as the newer harness is less prone to chaffing. Since you'll have the harness off the engine, remove the intake manifold, soak it in some degreaser, and pressure wash it until clean. I did this on an '05 Super Duty I helped do an oil cooler job on and it was amazing how much gunk was stuck in there.

-You could weld the EGR exhaust port in the up pipe, but you could also completely eliminate it with the up pipe that comes with most kits. If you live in a state that doesn't require testing on trucks like these, then delete the EGR. In Texas, it's not required.

-Do you plan on replacing the turbo or cleaning it? 9 times out of 10, the turbo is cleanable and rebuildable. GPOP shop sells a kit to rebuild it with an upgraded 360 degree thrust washer. Riffraff also makes a good single plane billet wheel that improves the throttle response. I've been running it for some time now and love how well it works with my tunes. Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel 05-07 - Riffraff Diesel Performance

-If you can swing the BPD or Dieselsite Billet Waterpump, I'd definitely do it while the engine was torn down.

 

I could be wrong (like many times before), but thought the STC fitting wasn't an issue until the 05 MY.

 

I think that what they're all saying here -- it would be a pita to try and put in the '05+ HPOP, this engine has some later parts and some early, with the early being the old style HPOP, so no STC on that...

 

I don't plan on yanking engine so I'll be sticking with the Al pump. Is the Dieselite pump Toreador_Diesel mentioned the upgraded pump you're talking about or are you saying to pull motor and go cast iron?

In one of early vs late changes threads I saw a mention of the late 04 pumps having increased pressure, possibly to accommodate the new oil rail. Does the dieselite pump have the correct pressure?

As far as injectors are concerned, I got my terminology wrong. I meant to say reseal the oil rail ball cups, not the injector cups.

Good point on cleaning intake.

Being in Commiefornia, I need to keep egr cooler for visual inspection. I plan on welding both ends in case there's a crack in it coolant won't leak into intake

Are the billet waterpumps worth the coin over stock? I'm not really aware of issues with stock pumps, just a preventive deal since I'll be in there.

The turbo has several chipped compressor wheel vanes, the compressor out let is covered in a 1/8" layer of oily crud and there's plenty of radial and axial play. I don't think it actually touched the housing yet, but it's damn close. I don't mind rebuilding it if it's salvageable and some upgraded component are available. Does the billet compressor wheel whistle like the 03? I don't really want that. Right now it maxed out at 22 psi, verified by gauge and map sensor. My friends 03 will get up to 30. Does mine have sticking vanes or is the loose shaft and bad compressor wheel also responsible for low output

And who is GPOP?

Thanks

 

Cool, no STC fitting needed on any 04 model.

Thanks

 

I'm in the sameish boat except my gaskets are leaking, I also have the transition 2004 engine I'll be watching this post for good info. Going to pull my cab next month and send the heads out for service and inspection.
I didn't even think of cleaning the intake manifold. I am grateful for this site, up until I joined I thought only sinister diesel was the shopping place and had no clue about re-routing the PCV hoses.
I am interested on hearing who GPOP is and more about the water pump because I will be right there. Also interested in the 7.3 fan clutch swap, really worth it?

 

The Dieselsite pump is the upgraded pump you'd want to go with. AFA increased pressure, I'm not really aware of that and the IPR controls pressure anyway. The Dieselsite pump may have more volume and is the pump I'd go with over OEM.