1991 F-150 xlt lariat, lifter clatter, AC conversion questions
#1
1991 F-150 xlt lariat, lifter clatter, AC conversion questions
Hello all,
I've still got some slight lifter clatter on cold startup, lasts a second or less. Tried MMO and seafoam but it still does it. Should I let it get a few more miles before I try something else?
I have a u joint with some play, the parts are cheap enough, but I'm not sure I understand the procedure much less the difficulty.
Lastly I have done the r134a conversion as it was discharged. All new seals, orifice tube and dryer. Cleaned lines, vac down and recharged. Not sure how much I put in, but I've adjusted the pressure up and down to get the best pressure and coolest temps. In 98* ambient I'm getting 45-55 low and 280-300 high with 50-45 vent temp in the center vents, 60-55 in the outer vents. I think I can get colder, I understand the blue orifice tube may not be the best choice for r134a conversion. I have the serpentine condenser, what looks like a new evaporator and a compressor that is labeled ford remanufactured.
Ideas about any of my issues?
Thanks again this website has been invaluable!
I've still got some slight lifter clatter on cold startup, lasts a second or less. Tried MMO and seafoam but it still does it. Should I let it get a few more miles before I try something else?
I have a u joint with some play, the parts are cheap enough, but I'm not sure I understand the procedure much less the difficulty.
Lastly I have done the r134a conversion as it was discharged. All new seals, orifice tube and dryer. Cleaned lines, vac down and recharged. Not sure how much I put in, but I've adjusted the pressure up and down to get the best pressure and coolest temps. In 98* ambient I'm getting 45-55 low and 280-300 high with 50-45 vent temp in the center vents, 60-55 in the outer vents. I think I can get colder, I understand the blue orifice tube may not be the best choice for r134a conversion. I have the serpentine condenser, what looks like a new evaporator and a compressor that is labeled ford remanufactured.
Ideas about any of my issues?
Thanks again this website has been invaluable!
Last edited by mtrosclair; 07-28-2015 at 09:57 PM. Reason: Type
#2
What engine with the lifter clatter? If the 4.9, that is normal.
Run a good dino oil in it or quality Synthetic blend 5w-30 and let it go. Adding crap only disturbs the additive package. MMO or quality oil, period!
R134a for your system should be near #36 ounces, no more than 38 ounces and no less than 34. You should use the RED orifice tube, not the blue one. What you get for temps is about the best. I have read where users have used the Motorcraft ORANGE orifice tube and it helps with vent temps, but also creates higher HIGH side PSI. Also, when the AC is on, and the blower is set to MAX AC, and on the highest setting, your HIGH side PSI is gonna be way high. But, it shouldn't be any higher than 300psi as that indicates an overcharge or restriction in the system.
Run a good dino oil in it or quality Synthetic blend 5w-30 and let it go. Adding crap only disturbs the additive package. MMO or quality oil, period!
R134a for your system should be near #36 ounces, no more than 38 ounces and no less than 34. You should use the RED orifice tube, not the blue one. What you get for temps is about the best. I have read where users have used the Motorcraft ORANGE orifice tube and it helps with vent temps, but also creates higher HIGH side PSI. Also, when the AC is on, and the blower is set to MAX AC, and on the highest setting, your HIGH side PSI is gonna be way high. But, it shouldn't be any higher than 300psi as that indicates an overcharge or restriction in the system.
#3
I have the 4.9, im running mobil dino 10w-30 and a motorcraft filter.
So I need a red or possibly orange motorcraft orifice tube, does it matter the brand, the blue tube I'm using now is four seasons branded.
I do notice that it works better while moving and above idle engine speeds, while idling in traffic my coolant temp starts to move up and the vent temp goes down. I wonder if my fan clutch is bad?
So I need a red or possibly orange motorcraft orifice tube, does it matter the brand, the blue tube I'm using now is four seasons branded.
I do notice that it works better while moving and above idle engine speeds, while idling in traffic my coolant temp starts to move up and the vent temp goes down. I wonder if my fan clutch is bad?
#4
#5
#6
#7
Got the joint changed, used a c clamp, went very easy.
I pulled the system down to change the blue orifice tube to red, and found black goop. Cleaned everything, new dryer and compressor. Pulled it back down and recharged getting about the same vent temps but lower pressures. Fan clutch is bad, so I'm going to change that before I mess with it anymore.
I pulled the system down to change the blue orifice tube to red, and found black goop. Cleaned everything, new dryer and compressor. Pulled it back down and recharged getting about the same vent temps but lower pressures. Fan clutch is bad, so I'm going to change that before I mess with it anymore.
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