Anyone know what circuit I can tap into that's dimmable? Preferably near the insturment cluster....

I have a switch that's dimmer capable, wondering where I can tap that power feed from.... similar to powering a dimmable gauge I assume.

 

Can you be more specific?

There is a plug right under the rear door on the frame rail that has power and it can be controlled by the dimmer switch/dome light toggle. If there is a light wired to it, it comes on and dims right along with the dome light when you lock/unlock/open a door.

 

OK, so I guess any of the instrument/door plugs should be able to be tapped into?

I have a couple of auxiliary switches I want to install for low current items (2.5-5A) and don't want to tie up my factory auxiliary switches...but the indicator LEDs are bright as hell....they're also dimmer capable.

 

Do you have the upfiitter switches?

If you're looking for a power feed just for the indicator lights for the new Aux switches, there is a Violet with a grey stripe (VT-GY) wire from the dimming circuit to the indicating lights on the upfitter switches.

 

The plan is to use the 10 or 15A upfitter as a "master" switch for these smaller circuits...rear seat dvd players (2.5a), radar detector (2.5a), cell phone amp(4-5a)...and have them switched separately.

 

I don't think the lights on the up fitter switches dim with the dimmer rocker? But that's a good wire to know about, thanks for that info mpd.

So, you're setting up a slave circuit panel and it has power from up fitter, then, the lights on the switches themselves will be powered by a tap from a dome light? I get it now. I can't think of anywhere inside the cab where I would steal power from for those switch lights. Too bad there's not a light in the door or in the footwell.

 

Right....I ordered the airbag switch panel to replace the little "pocket" near the drivers knee, and that's where the switches will go. I already put my subwoofer level control there, and have plenty of space for other switches.

 

I might be a little confused in my old age, activation, illumination or both? LOL.


From the 2013 wiring diagram the VT-GY wire from F12 and controlled by a FET in the BCM is for to light up the labels on the upfitter switches and the lights on the end of the upfitter switches are power from the load side of the switch you have turned on and don’t dim.


I used this wired to light up the cupholder slash ashtray with strip lighting in my 2008 (I have no console).


I guess it depends if the switches he has can be wired with the light having separate wire connections, he did say his can dim. For example a DPSTswitch where one set of contacts in the switch are to turn on the light? They are available.


Sorry if I'm still not getting it.

 

You got it. The little lights on the switches are powered independent, no connection with the load on his load side of the switch. Two separate circuits.

 

hmmmm.....

 

Both, I'd like for it to turn on when the auxiliary item is powered on, and dim when the vehicle dims.

 

You need switches that have Dependent/Independent illumination/activation to your configuration.


Dependent: Turn the switch On and its pilot light comes on. Turn the switch Off and its pilot light goes off.

Independent: The pilot light onthe switch is independent of the On-Off status of its switch, and is controlled by a separate switch that you will need to purchase. Typically the separate switch controls the illumination of a bank of switches that have independent illumination. This can be a useful feature when you need to indicate the location of a bank of switches in a dimly-lit cab.


I’ve had them on my boats and I believe that they are called Carling Style Rocker switches for boats/Auto.We use them all the time at work, I will look when I get back from vacation.

 

I can do that with these....

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...tch/1201/2837/