First Diesel Questions
#31
07-28-2015, 04:52 PM
#33
07-28-2015, 05:21 PM
Posting Guru
The spyder should veer off before hitting the fuel filter bowl. I could be wrong but Im pretty sure itll fit, Ill be putting mine on this week ill let u know. All the other IC spyders should have been engineered to clear the fuel bowl as well. I havent done e fuel yet, but it supposedly does help.
#35
07-28-2015, 06:53 PM
Posting Guru
Then start with the 3 pod gauges for the Pyrometer/Boost/tranny temp gauges. Keep your exhaust gas temps/egts (pyrometer temps) under 1220 degrees. And your tranny temps under 220. The trick is the save money wherever you can. Its the little $30-50 here and there that add up and get u in the long run. Also look into the exhaust back pressure valve delete. EBPV delete. Its basicly free, and gets ride of alot of future EGT issues if it sticks, or the sensor glitches. If your pulling/descending alot of really long steep hills/mountains with heavy loads then u may wanna keep it as an exhaust brake.
#36
07-28-2015, 09:02 PM
#37
07-29-2015, 07:01 AM
Well, I had a 14 hour drive yesterday which gave me plenty of time to ponder things and remembered something... I completely forgot to tell y'all about the blue smoke that comes out on warm-up too. There's a little white smoke for sure but blue follows. The duration of smoke seems to be proportional to how long it's been sitting.. Like now that it's my daily, it never smokes blue. But when it would sit for a week between drives, it chugged blue until it was warm and then stopped. Could this be a symptom of a bad motor?
#38
07-29-2015, 08:18 AM
Well, I had a 14 hour drive yesterday which gave me plenty of time to ponder things and remembered something... I completely forgot to tell y'all about the blue smoke that comes out on warm-up too. There's a little white smoke for sure but blue follows. The duration of smoke seems to be proportional to how long it's been sitting.. Like now that it's my daily, it never smokes blue. But when it would sit for a week between drives, it chugged blue until it was warm and then stopped. Could this be a symptom of a bad motor?
More likely valve seals or injectors that need re-torqued...
#39
07-29-2015, 08:28 AM
Postmaster
#41
07-29-2015, 08:32 AM
Postmaster
#42
07-29-2015, 09:37 AM
#43
08-02-2015, 03:29 PM
#44
08-03-2015, 11:40 AM
What Im finding out with one of these trucks is its important to find things to do that are fun, so you dont burn yourself out only doing things that are frustrating.
I JUST had my bellowed up pipes down last week. Honestly if you can find a shop thatll do it for 3-400, I think its worth it. Those things are a PAIN in the C$%k. So much anger and cursing will come from that project. Also depending on how badly corroded the bolts are in your collector(Y pipe) you may end up having to get a new Y pipe. $125 unless you can luckly find one near you.
Do gauges after that. I went with glowshift.. But wouldnt recomend them unless your trying to save money.
For exhaust, I would do the dymond Eye 2 piece 3" down pipe, don't get anything bigger then 3" it wont fit. Bigger isnt better in this case. Part #122004
Amazon.com: Diamond Eye 3 inch Aluminized Downpipe Kit - 122004: Automotive
When you get those in take the resonator off, and have a shop make your a 3 to 4" piece using the bracket that connects the resonator to the Down pipe. Then do a 4" x 84" piece of straight exahust flared on one side, cut to length as needed on the none flare side.(you may need a little more length with your crew cab though) Then a 4" 90 flared on both sides, then a 4"x24" straight flared on one side. Should be about $120. Itll all make sense once you get the pieces. Youll come out right before your tire and youll come down inbetween the front of your shackle mount and some weird thing sticking down below the frame.
For intake, this is the setup I went with. Its still a "6637" its just a different part number because its FRAM instead of napa its $20 cheaper.
Amazon.com: FRAM CA6818 Air Filter: Automotive
Also get this with it, itll make light alot easier. Your local muffler shops will charge your $53 for one of these and it wont be aluminum. This will save you another $33.
Amazon.com: Spectre Performance 9749 45° Aluminum Intake Tube: Automotive
After you do all that, then get one of these. Everyone says just go with the 6.0 tranny cooler but I went with this one and its working great. My tranny never gets above 140 degrees and I pull some SERIOUS hill. 20% grade.
Amazon.com: Dorman 918-216 Transmission Oil Cooler: Automotive
With this. Your auto parts store probably wont have it, and mine charged me $60Amazon.com: Hayden Automotive 112 Engine Oil Cooler Hose: Automotive
And two of these MettleAir 129-8-6-1 PK 1/2" ID x 3/8" ID Reducer Barb Mender/Splicer/Joiner/Union Fitting Brass Tubing Hose Adapter/Coupler: Industrial Products: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Then look into an intercooler setup. You can piece one together but honestly after all the pieces I just did. You might as well buy this one, use its piping and just use a 6.0 or a 7.3 SD intercooler and sell the intercooler that comes with it. Or just install the CX kit completely and be done, your choice. Hypermax and banks make a great kit but youll pay for it theyre 14-1600.
Cxracing Intercooler Kit for 94 97 Ford F250 F350 Super Duty Diesel 7 3L Blue | eBay
Once youve got all that, you should be pretty protected. Then get the chip.
I just went through all this the last 4 months, what Ive posted is pretty much the easiest route. Its not the route I chose, I would have loved to have been smart enough to do the route I just posted. But it is what it is.
I JUST had my bellowed up pipes down last week. Honestly if you can find a shop thatll do it for 3-400, I think its worth it. Those things are a PAIN in the C$%k. So much anger and cursing will come from that project. Also depending on how badly corroded the bolts are in your collector(Y pipe) you may end up having to get a new Y pipe. $125 unless you can luckly find one near you.
Do gauges after that. I went with glowshift.. But wouldnt recomend them unless your trying to save money.
For exhaust, I would do the dymond Eye 2 piece 3" down pipe, don't get anything bigger then 3" it wont fit. Bigger isnt better in this case. Part #122004
Amazon.com: Diamond Eye 3 inch Aluminized Downpipe Kit - 122004: Automotive
When you get those in take the resonator off, and have a shop make your a 3 to 4" piece using the bracket that connects the resonator to the Down pipe. Then do a 4" x 84" piece of straight exahust flared on one side, cut to length as needed on the none flare side.(you may need a little more length with your crew cab though) Then a 4" 90 flared on both sides, then a 4"x24" straight flared on one side. Should be about $120. Itll all make sense once you get the pieces. Youll come out right before your tire and youll come down inbetween the front of your shackle mount and some weird thing sticking down below the frame.
For intake, this is the setup I went with. Its still a "6637" its just a different part number because its FRAM instead of napa its $20 cheaper.
Amazon.com: FRAM CA6818 Air Filter: Automotive
Also get this with it, itll make light alot easier. Your local muffler shops will charge your $53 for one of these and it wont be aluminum. This will save you another $33.
Amazon.com: Spectre Performance 9749 45° Aluminum Intake Tube: Automotive
After you do all that, then get one of these. Everyone says just go with the 6.0 tranny cooler but I went with this one and its working great. My tranny never gets above 140 degrees and I pull some SERIOUS hill. 20% grade.
Amazon.com: Dorman 918-216 Transmission Oil Cooler: Automotive
With this. Your auto parts store probably wont have it, and mine charged me $60Amazon.com: Hayden Automotive 112 Engine Oil Cooler Hose: Automotive
And two of these MettleAir 129-8-6-1 PK 1/2" ID x 3/8" ID Reducer Barb Mender/Splicer/Joiner/Union Fitting Brass Tubing Hose Adapter/Coupler: Industrial Products: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Then look into an intercooler setup. You can piece one together but honestly after all the pieces I just did. You might as well buy this one, use its piping and just use a 6.0 or a 7.3 SD intercooler and sell the intercooler that comes with it. Or just install the CX kit completely and be done, your choice. Hypermax and banks make a great kit but youll pay for it theyre 14-1600.
Cxracing Intercooler Kit for 94 97 Ford F250 F350 Super Duty Diesel 7 3L Blue | eBay
Once youve got all that, you should be pretty protected. Then get the chip.
I just went through all this the last 4 months, what Ive posted is pretty much the easiest route. Its not the route I chose, I would have loved to have been smart enough to do the route I just posted. But it is what it is.
Keep an eye on the Doorman cooler, after a few searches you may reconsider.
If you do an IC a 6.0 IC is much cheaper and of higher quality than these chinese made ricer crap that is all over ebay now....
JUST MY .02
#45
08-18-2015, 01:12 PM
Well.. I got the 6637 installed and sent my injectors out to rosewood to be rebuilt. Now, I am thinking about getting the exhaust side of things worked out.
I already have my eye on a diamond eye 5" with a 3" dp, but don't know which up pipe to use. Is there a better/preferred brand out there?
I just saw on riffraff, they have a set at half the cost of the international version... What's the difference? Worth the cost?
I already have my eye on a diamond eye 5" with a 3" dp, but don't know which up pipe to use. Is there a better/preferred brand out there?
I just saw on riffraff, they have a set at half the cost of the international version... What's the difference? Worth the cost?