Is copper OK for a hutch mod?
#1
Is copper OK for a hutch mod?
OK, I've searched around and come to a conclusion. SS tubing is hard to find off the shelf, every time I go into a hardware store they ask me if I can use copper. Based on the recommendations on Guzzles page I am guessing not? Can anyone tell me if it really makes a difference? I'd like to get this done with on my truck so I can move on to other things (not that I can't do that now). Thanks.
#2
No copper or galvanized stainless steel. Diesel fuel will react to both of them and cause problems in the fuel system.
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Specializing in Viton® o-rings and leak repair kits for the 7.3L and 6.0L diesels
(970) 368-4455 aka guzzleguzzle's Mods & Maintenance website
Specializing in Viton® o-rings and leak repair kits for the 7.3L and 6.0L diesels
(970) 368-4455 aka guzzle
#4
I've heard over and over that copper shouldn't be used with diesel fuel, but I've never heard of an actual, fuel related failure of a copper line. My boat was plumbed with copper supply, return and transfer lines to both engines. Never a problem with the original, 30 year old lines. I see copper used on backhoes and all sorts of other equipment like gensets, oil fired furnaces, and the like. The only problem I saw with one of those was a compression fitting allowing air to be sucked in. Not a problem caused by the copper, per se. Cut it out and put in a flare union, problem solved.
On the other hand, galvanized tubing and fittings shouldn't be used with diesel. The sulphur in the fuel reacts with the zinc to form zinc sulfate, which will become a gelatinous, filter clogging mess. With the reduction of sulphur in diesel, it's less of a problem, but not a complete non issue.
On the other hand, galvanized tubing and fittings shouldn't be used with diesel. The sulphur in the fuel reacts with the zinc to form zinc sulfate, which will become a gelatinous, filter clogging mess. With the reduction of sulphur in diesel, it's less of a problem, but not a complete non issue.
#5
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#7
Agreed on the galvanize/Zinc issue. Zinc is a pretty chemically active element. I think some people confuse copper and brass. Copper is a fairly stable element whereas brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. The zinc can be attacked and leave you with copper "lace".
As for smaller stainless tubing, brake line comes to mind. Maybe LMC truck or the like. Also you need to use compression fittings specially designed for stainless, regular ones typically will not work well.
As for smaller stainless tubing, brake line comes to mind. Maybe LMC truck or the like. Also you need to use compression fittings specially designed for stainless, regular ones typically will not work well.
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#8
If you use copper, use the one hole straps that have a rubber piece to isolate the strap from the metal. Copper over time will become work hardened or crystallized if it vibrates too much, so strap it frequently. If copper is contacting a ferrous metal or aluminum and is exposed to salty water such as road slush in winter, corrosion can set in over a period of time. Paint can prevent this though.
Larry
Larry
#9
Is anyone willing to sell me the pieces of stainless steel tubeing i need? 4" of 3/8" and 3' of 5/16"?
Someone has to have that laying around.... i dont see buying an entire roll for such small pieces.... Can brake lines be used? I have all the other pieces to do the project....
And sorry OP... not to hijack this thread, but the prefiler lift pump guzzle uses (Carter P4070)(*having 5 - 6 psi, 72GPH*)... does anyone have any other brands parts numbers that cross reference with his? Preferibly one that Advance Auto sells because i have a GREAT discount there.... thanks
Someone has to have that laying around.... i dont see buying an entire roll for such small pieces.... Can brake lines be used? I have all the other pieces to do the project....
And sorry OP... not to hijack this thread, but the prefiler lift pump guzzle uses (Carter P4070)(*having 5 - 6 psi, 72GPH*)... does anyone have any other brands parts numbers that cross reference with his? Preferibly one that Advance Auto sells because i have a GREAT discount there.... thanks
#11
I'm leery of copper in a high-vibration environment. Looking at the factory fuel line from the tank, stainless is use on the frame, but hose is used when reaching to the tank - an item that can vibrate in relationship to the frame. The passenger-side tubing in the valley is from a fixed point to a fixed point, and even then - it has a clamp. Vibration is not our friend here, so take that into account on your design.
I was able to get straight pieces of brake line tubing from the Irish.
I was able to get straight pieces of brake line tubing from the Irish.
#13
there is a video from diesel tech ron, youtube, and he was saying they have been using soft copper lines for years in the shop and on his personal truck as well with no issues and that was done some 8 years ago i believe.
I don't see that as being a big deal inside the fuel tank as they use plastic parts on the OEM stuff and that is more brittle than copper it would seem to me.
I don't see that as being a big deal inside the fuel tank as they use plastic parts on the OEM stuff and that is more brittle than copper it would seem to me.
#14
You can use the SS 5/16 fuel line you remove from fuel pump inlet to the fuel tank, while the tank is out it`s probably 5' L. Just pull it from plastic clamps along the inside the frame rail and use it on the return inside the tank all that`s left is a 4" piece 3/8" SS tube for the inlet umbrella inside the tank and a 5/16" compression coupling and 10' of 3/8" diesel rated hose.