Converting From A NP208 To A BW1356
#76
07-16-2015, 11:59 AM
Logistics Pro
For fourwheeling they also offer the advantage of driving either axle alone in low range, which helps steering in certain circumstances, but for me the biggest benefit is the easier shifting. Having said that, I have no intention of spending the money to twin-stick my F-250.
#77
07-16-2015, 03:32 PM
Bob - Thanks, but I'll be happy with a good t-case and single shift lever. The single lever and the lock-out hubs already confuse my offspring, so we'd better keep it simple. 
All - I've worked a deal with James and will be taking him the t-case soon. (And intake, Bruno.) He agrees with me that the best approach is build it with yokes front and rear so I can use the "new" drive shafts he built, so that's the approach. He'll tear it down and tell me if it is usable and, if so, what needs to be ordered to put it back in excellent condition. Then I'll order that stuff from Midwest, as well as the yokes, shaft, and housing from Harmon's.
Thanks for all the help in working through the details. I think we have a plan!
All - I've worked a deal with James and will be taking him the t-case soon. (And intake, Bruno.) He agrees with me that the best approach is build it with yokes front and rear so I can use the "new" drive shafts he built, so that's the approach. He'll tear it down and tell me if it is usable and, if so, what needs to be ordered to put it back in excellent condition. Then I'll order that stuff from Midwest, as well as the yokes, shaft, and housing from Harmon's.
Thanks for all the help in working through the details. I think we have a plan!
#78
07-16-2015, 05:47 PM
Also, for documentation purposes, here's what I learned when I talked to Aaron at Midwest today about their kits for rebuilding the BW1356:
- Bearing Rebuild Kit: $87.97 Includes bearings, seals, and gaskets.
- Small Parts Kit: $29.99 Inc's snap rings, pads for shift forks, etc
- Gasket & Seal Kit: $15.25 Inc's the gaskets and seals in the bearing rebuild kit, in case that's all you need.
- Oil Pump Kit: $54.94 Used to repair the oil pump, but not needed if your pump is working.
- Case Saver Kit, Shifter Shaft Spacers (Fixes Neutral Condition): $11.95 Aaron didn't really know what all is in this.
#79
07-16-2015, 07:17 PM
Logistics Pro
I'm familiar with the scenario. Although my sons can both drive a stick, neither one can figure out the manual choke and hand throttle I use for a high idle on my Bronco. I'd let them take one of the coolest vehicles in town on dates, but they're afraid to get stuck somewhere not being able to get it started!
#80
07-16-2015, 09:08 PM
#81
07-17-2015, 05:55 PM
Took the BW1356 to James today. He is going to tear it down to see what it needs, and then I'll order those bits from Midwest, and the yokes, shaft, and housing from Harmon's. 
And, I delivered an Edelbrock Performer 400. James has an '80 F250 flatbed w/a 400 that's gonna get an Eddy upgrade, including a 1405.
And, I delivered an Edelbrock Performer 400. James has an '80 F250 flatbed w/a 400 that's gonna get an Eddy upgrade, including a 1405.
#82
07-19-2015, 08:31 PM
I just dropped off the Eddy 7821 adjustable timing set for James' truck "Pickles". All he lacks is a gasket set now. He hasn't torn down the 1356 yet. We still have a couple days left on his Mama/Grandma's porch and mobility chair ramp. They were suffering from a collapsed stairway with the rest of the porch on it's way to falling apart as well.So once we get them safely entering and exiting the house he will be back to the gear work.
Unless he decides to give Pickles a hotrod makeover real quick .........
Unless he decides to give Pickles a hotrod makeover real quick .........
#83
07-19-2015, 10:18 PM
I understand why it is called Pickles. It is an … "unusual" shade of green. Even the Swinging 60's didn't produce a vehicle that color. However, with a straight-up cam, good compression, and an Eddy intake and that 1405 of his it'll run.
As for the t-case, I told both James and Stacey that I'm not in a hurry. I just wanted to get the ball rolling and infuse a little cash into the discussion.
As for the t-case, I told both James and Stacey that I'm not in a hurry. I just wanted to get the ball rolling and infuse a little cash into the discussion.
#84
07-20-2015, 11:58 AM
Logistics Pro
I know it's late in the process, but yesterday dixie460 started this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...se-design.html on the '87 - '96 forum complaining about yet another 13-56 transfer case going bad on him. Sounds like the oil pump locked up and then things went worse from there. Don't know how much this should impact your decision (or any one else's following along), but I thought I'd mention it.
#85
07-20-2015, 12:24 PM
#86
07-20-2015, 04:42 PM
Logistics Pro
In that thread, dixie460 says he rebuilt his 13-56 3.5 years ago, making at least some improvements to known issues. But I don't know enough specifically about the oil pump problem or what he did with the oil pump in his rebuild to really compare.
#87
07-20-2015, 05:23 PM
The problem with the pump is that the stamped locating arm wears its way through the webbing of the case allowing the pump to rotate with the output shaft.
When it comes free it can get into the gears or chain and cause worse damage than just a lack of lubrication.
The simple fix is to weld a small piece of rod across the sharp end. This keeps it in place and stops it from fretting through the web.
When it comes free it can get into the gears or chain and cause worse damage than just a lack of lubrication.
The simple fix is to weld a small piece of rod across the sharp end. This keeps it in place and stops it from fretting through the web.
#88
07-20-2015, 05:58 PM
#89
07-20-2015, 06:51 PM
Logistics Pro
The problem with the pump is that the stamped locating arm wears its way through the webbing of the case allowing the pump to rotate with the output shaft.
When it comes free it can get into the gears or chain and cause worse damage than just a lack of lubrication.
The simple fix is to weld a small piece of rod across the sharp end. This keeps it in place and stops it from fretting through the web.
When it comes free it can get into the gears or chain and cause worse damage than just a lack of lubrication.
The simple fix is to weld a small piece of rod across the sharp end. This keeps it in place and stops it from fretting through the web.
... Got back home and tore it down to find that the oil pump retainer broke again. I rebuilt this thing about 3 1/2 years ago and had welded a bolt to the retainer when I put it all back together. So I find the cheap worthless stamped sheet metal retainer torn in half behind where I had welded the bolt to it. Weld was intact, bolt was intact, just the sheet metal had torn in half. Seems like the pump locked up, that would be the only thing I can think of that would cause that kind of damage. I was able to turn the pump without much effort but it did have a rough spot. It had also started wearing a new low spot in the case where the bolt head was. So between the new wear in the case, the damaged pump, shreds and shavings all over the place, range fork busted, planetaries were blue from overheating... this case was done and nothing in my box of 1356 parts was gonna fix all that damage.
.... when I get a used case I'll do the pump retainer fix but this time I'm gonna use something that's wide enough to where it doesn't bang back and forth when the shaft changes direction. I might even just make my own. I understand there should not be a lot of force there, and I'm not sure what caused it to lock up in the first place, but I don't like the retainer rocking back and forth either.
.... when I get a used case I'll do the pump retainer fix but this time I'm gonna use something that's wide enough to where it doesn't bang back and forth when the shaft changes direction. I might even just make my own. I understand there should not be a lot of force there, and I'm not sure what caused it to lock up in the first place, but I don't like the retainer rocking back and forth either.
#90
07-20-2015, 07:04 PM