I just got finished putting on arp head studs and gasket, new bulletproof oil cooler and egr delete. Put it back together the way it came apart but it doesnt start. just turns over but wont start??????? 2005
F350

 

What is ICP and IPR look like during cranking? It does take a good bit of cranking to get the air purged out of the high pressure oil system after it's been apart and drained. Well over a minute of cranking time isn't uncommon. Of course let the starter cool between attempts and keep the batteries charged.

 

I assume he cranked long enough if he did all that work

2 min tops crank if it still don't start no amount of crank will fix

I'm with rusty check into Ipr get some numbers see what's missing

 

The IPC goes to around 1200 psi

 

The IPC volts. When we crank it doesnt crank smooth it sounds like it might not have compression on a cylinder or 2. we did have the heads flattend is there valve adjustment that should happen?

 

No valve adjust needed but I would bet you bent a pushrod or two. Did you position the crankshaft correctly before you put the rocker fulcrums back on?


Do you have sync ?

 

What is sync

 

We just put the rocker arms back in the way they came out without turning anything.

 

Explain this to me? You pulled the heads and did not line up the timing marks before or after?

 

The locating dowel on the crank shaft needs to be in the 6 O'clock position before you start tightening the bolts and a common practice is to rotate the engine by hand in between each step in the torque sequence. So you may have bent some push rods. I would scan it for codes and make sure all 3 FICM connectors are fully seated as evidenced by an audible click when the connector snaps in to place, also make sure you got the FICM ground reattached on the drivers side rear intake manifold stud.

 

Sync is the crankshaft position sensor indicating that it is working and correctly indicating the position of the crankshaft. You need a scan device to read sync ( 1 or 0) and the other sensor readouts. Start by pulling the valve covers off and measure the rocker arm movement while cranking the engine. They should all move exactly the same distance ( about 1/2 inch). If not, pull the ones that don't go as far. Don't forget to position the crankshaft before putting the fulcrum back on or you might bend another pushrod. The reason you are getting an uneven crank is that you are not getting compression in at least one cylinder. Most likely due to the bent pushrod or poss bent valve.

 

Thanks for your imput. With all the research i did no one told me that i have to put the crankshaft in the correct place to keep from bending rods. So today before i go all the way to the lifter rods i was doing some other checking. I tested the oil pressure on the fuel rail and i had at least 2000 psi while cranking. I also checked to make sure i have fuel coming to the rail. Nothing worked. I checked the codes and this i what i came up with P0335, P0676, P1000, and P2614. with the P0335 is there a chance that the crankshaft sensor or the camshaft sensor is bad? I tested the "CMP and CKP are in sync" using AE while cranking and it was always a 0. I also did a "Camshaft position sensor level" and it was always 0. So im thinking maybe something with the camshaft and crankshaft sensor or bent lifter rods. ?????

 

Check to make sure that the plugs is on the CMP and seated. Also go back over all your connections. You had a lot of connectors off to do that work.

I had a CMP go bad when it was hot giving me a no synch. Drove me nuts!

 

I checked the wire harness and it seemed to be good so i changed the crankshaft sensor and now it works. thanks for your help.

 

Glad to see you got it going and thank you for the update.