EGR & Oil Cooler
#1
EGR & Oil Cooler
I am new to posting, but not to reading all the great information from this forum. I have changed everything myself that went bad in my 2006 F250 and now find myself with a problem. I broke down over the weekend with my truck overheating. I pulled over and filled up the reservoir, but it still did not move and died when put into Drive or Reverse. I am in the Sierra Mountains, so I had it towed to my uncles home where it sits now. I am not currently at the truck, but will have it towed soon to my home. I put a new EGR Valve in it yesterday, but still pulled up the code P0404 and had a lot of steam/white smoke. When I pulled the EGR Valve it looked ok and was not clogged, but wet. I called a few local truck repair shops and then the Ford Dealership and getting prices of 3k to 5k to change the EGR and Oil Cooler. I have seen how involved it is to change this and although I have changed smaller parts like the FICM, I wanted to check here first if someone has advice for me to check something else before having it towed here to my home and then getting started on the EGR & Oil Cooler. I also am worried about getting the Turbo out.
I have 102k miles on it
2006 F250 Lariat
Turbo Diesel
4 X 4
Thanks ahead of time and if I left out some information I will be glad to add it. Thanks to all.
Scott
I have 102k miles on it
2006 F250 Lariat
Turbo Diesel
4 X 4
Thanks ahead of time and if I left out some information I will be glad to add it. Thanks to all.
Scott
#2
Definitely sound like your on the right track...
Before you get too far into the job make sure you check the head gaskets too. First pull the glow plugs and see of any of the cylinders have Coolant in them. After you pull one side use a remote starter if you can and see if anything blow out. then do the other side. If nothing then continue on with the job. After job is complete make sure you check for blown head gasket again by checking pressure at Degas bottle. Possible coolant was too low with 1st check, dont want to destroy the engine if head gasket are blown.
Turbo can be a pain sometimes you get lucky sometimes not. at least on the first few attempts gets easier after a couple of tries. overall the EGR and oil cooler are fairly easy jobs just time consuming. Post up here as you go along or get stuck great forum with lots of helpful folks
Before you get too far into the job make sure you check the head gaskets too. First pull the glow plugs and see of any of the cylinders have Coolant in them. After you pull one side use a remote starter if you can and see if anything blow out. then do the other side. If nothing then continue on with the job. After job is complete make sure you check for blown head gasket again by checking pressure at Degas bottle. Possible coolant was too low with 1st check, dont want to destroy the engine if head gasket are blown.
Turbo can be a pain sometimes you get lucky sometimes not. at least on the first few attempts gets easier after a couple of tries. overall the EGR and oil cooler are fairly easy jobs just time consuming. Post up here as you go along or get stuck great forum with lots of helpful folks
#3
#6
#7
Anytime!
Your profile says your in CA, where abouts? Big place possible one of us might be close and be able to help out.
Also being in Smog test happy CA Go with the BulletProof EGR cooler. Alot of ectra cash but one more protection point for those head gaskets and engine overall. Or if your so inclined go for a "Stealth" Delete. Just my 2c, I fully understand that sometimes the cash-flow just isn't there to get the upgrade when you need it.
Your profile says your in CA, where abouts? Big place possible one of us might be close and be able to help out.
Also being in Smog test happy CA Go with the BulletProof EGR cooler. Alot of ectra cash but one more protection point for those head gaskets and engine overall. Or if your so inclined go for a "Stealth" Delete. Just my 2c, I fully understand that sometimes the cash-flow just isn't there to get the upgrade when you need it.
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#8
Hi and thanks for all the replies. I just wanted to update my post and ask a question. I changed out the EGR Cooler and Oil cooler, changed the IPR Screen and 0 ring, but the screen did not look bad at all neither did the screen when I changed the oil cooler. I also changed the EGR and the thermostat. I took apart the turbo and cleaned the unison ring and vanes. I went to start the truck and it starts up fine and actually sounds good with no white smoke, but now I am getting a code of P2285. I went ahead and purchased an ICP valve and put it in, but still getting the same code. The truck starts without it being plugged in also. Not sure what direction I should go. I have inspected the pigtail to the ICP, cleaned it with brake cleaner and blew it out and it visually looks ok. I don't have any expensive code readers as the one I have was 50$ and I have no way to check much of anything else. I have gone through and made sure everything was connected and made sure the FICM was connected, I replaced that about 2 years ago. This truck is a 2006 6.0L with about 120k miles on it. Thanks for any help.
#9
#10
Thanks for that LivingLarge I will look into getting that. I live in the Sierra mountains, so everything I get is usually from the internet. I just drove it as the engine light had gone off and I stopped getting the P2285 code reading. I was driving and now it is Idling bad when coasting and high idle when I am parked and is now giving me a P2284 code. I did change the IPR screen and when I changed it the old one was still in good shape, no breaks or tears. I hope it's not the HPOP, I don't know why I was not getting this code from the very beginning of dealing with the EGR and OIL cooler, but now I am getting it. I am really having a hard time and need this truck for my job. Thanks to all for you help.
#11
I am updating this as of yesterday I was having the above issues. later on last night I went back out to the truck and pretty much did nothing, but pull the ICP connection again and just stare at it, I think I was looking to see if there was oil on it, but it was clean like before. I started it and the engine light was off and I had not codes any longer. I went out this morning and took it for a test drive, it does not have the symptoms of high idle and the engine light is not on. I really got on it on the hills and it seemed to work great. I am not getting any codes now at all, the last code I had was the P2284 and now it shows nothing. It makes me a little nervous as most of the driving I have is in the Sierra mountains with no cell service and I would hate to get stuck somewhere with my son. I am not sure if I had air in the system as I had it open for a few days. I need to smog it since I am in California so I am thinking maybe they might find something when they hook it up to do that. Any advice would be helpful as it seems like it is working well, but I am not sure I trust it yet since I was getting the P2284 code and idling strange yesterday and now I get nothing and it runs good. Thanks. Scott.
#12
#13
Where abouts in the Sierras are you? If you are Southern Sierras, there is an excellent shop in the area Brown's Diesel in Riverdale.
https://brownsdiesel.com/about-us
Labor for EGR & Oil Cooler on my 05 was only $980, I bought the coolers myself.
https://brownsdiesel.com/about-us
Labor for EGR & Oil Cooler on my 05 was only $980, I bought the coolers myself.
#14
I spoke too soon
Thanks again for all of your remarks here and I am actually up in the Nevada City area of the Sierras which is surrounded by forest fires at the moment. The last remarks I made was that the P2284 code had disappeared and that it was running good. Well I spoke too soon as I went to try and get it smogged here and it did not pass as I had not done the drive cycle for it. On the way home it started to surge when coasting and the idle was up and down and running bad again. I got home and then had the p2284 code again. When I had changed the ICP I did not change the pigtail, so I ordered it and just put it on now, still getting the P2284 code. Like I said before, I had changed the screen in the IPR, but it was in good condition and have changed the EGR, EGR cooler and the oil cooler. The screen in the oil cooler was good and I also changed the FICM about 2 years ago. I am about to give up and take it to the Dealership which is about an hour away and have them do a diagnostic on it. I am thinking that it's the HPOP or the IPR, but I am tired of throwing parts at it and just wanted to come here to see what all of you might do in this situation. Of course I will change the HPOP or IPR myself, but really dreading it as I had already had it torn down to that area once before. I will wait to hear any suggestions before calling the Stealership to set up a diagnostic.
#15
The p2284 & 2285 are pointing squarely at the High Pressure Oil System. Given your kinda remote location, I'd try driving it a bit with the ICP sensor unplugged. This will put the ICP number in the PCM to default. You will continue to get the code. If it clears up the erratic idle/surging issue the new ICP is suspect (has happened before). You haven't mentioned any starting issues, a real HPO leak will often cause hot no-start issue. The Symptom of running ok one day and messing up the next day is odd also. If it doesn't run any better with the ICP sensor unplugged it's time for an air test and further diag in search of an actual leak.