1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Do I need a new radiator or...?

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  #121  
Old 07-23-2015, 06:53 AM
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Quick update:

I should be updating you with good news by now, but alas. The radiator that was ordered was a 24" - though it was all metal and correct in that department. Then the second radiator was the right size, but someone put a plastic and aluminum radiator in the box that should have had an all metal one.

Then I had to go out of town, which brings us to now. Now she sits waiting for my return and I wait for the phone call saying they got the correct size and correct type of radiator in so I can pick it up when I'm back.
 
  #122  
Old 07-23-2015, 09:31 AM
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you sure the radiator shop can't rebuild yours with a copper core for less. your tanks are probably fine.

when he told you that you could get a new one cheaper, I bet he meant that you could get a plastic/aluminum one cheaper.
 
  #123  
Old 07-23-2015, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by qman
you sure the radiator shop can't rebuild yours with a copper core for less. your tanks are probably fine.

when he told you that you could get a new one cheaper, I bet he meant that you could get a plastic/aluminum one cheaper.
Yeah, I asked. They said it would be more expensive to do that. I'm guessing because of labor, pretty certain she said it would be $300+ and she knew I wanted an all metal radiator.

I'm getting a brand new all metal one for $290 which includes tax. Doesn't seem to shabby for the area I'm in.
 
  #124  
Old 07-23-2015, 08:47 PM
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Oh, I must have mis-read an earlier post. I thought you said something about $400.
 
  #125  
Old 07-26-2015, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by qman
Oh, I must have mis-read an earlier post. I thought you said something about $400.
Ohh! I did. That's after buying the new radiator, all the fluids, hoses, clamps, thermostat, water outlet etc. I want to say I've spent total on those things about $450.

I got the call that the radiator is in, however I am not. Home next week and I can't wait. I've been itching to get back in the water. (:
 
  #126  
Old 07-26-2015, 09:57 PM
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don't forget the pics
 
  #127  
Old 07-31-2015, 05:42 PM
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Update:

I got the new radiator in and wanted to run distilled water through. All went well! Typically after about 20-30 minutes of running it would get hot, but it hasn't yet.

The only bummer part is that there is still rust colored water coming out. Even after flushing and back flushing.

I've flushed it again 3x with distilled water, but I think I'm going to have to do it a lot more times.

Is it harmful to use hose water while I do this? I wanted to try and avoid it, but I have a feeling I'm going to need about 12 more gallons of distilled water just to flush it, or more.
 
  #128  
Old 07-31-2015, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by miihere24
Update:

I got the new radiator in and wanted to run distilled water through. All went well! Typically after about 20-30 minutes of running it would get hot, but it hasn't yet.

The only bummer part is that there is still rust colored water coming out. Even after flushing and back flushing.

I've flushed it again 3x with distilled water, but I think I'm going to have to do it a lot more times.

Is it harmful to use hose water while I do this? I wanted to try and avoid it, but I have a feeling I'm going to need about 12 more gallons of distilled water just to flush it, or more.
Depends on your local water. But I would assume it would be OK to flush it a couple times with hose water. One final time with distilled. Then 50/50. Did you remove those block drain plugs L/R side lower of the block by the oil pan?
 
  #129  
Old 07-31-2015, 06:45 PM
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Do I need a new radiator or...?

I've used hose water everytime I've ever flushed anything.

What you can do if you haven't already, is remove the thermostat, replace the water neck and upper hose, and run the hose into the lower hose and run the engine while it flows out of the top hose. Go until it's clean.
 
  #130  
Old 07-31-2015, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
Depends on your local water. But I would assume it would be OK to flush it a couple times with hose water. One final time with distilled. Then 50/50. Did you remove those block drain plugs L/R side lower of the block by the oil pan?
I did not replace those. I tried to Google it and the only time I saw them being replaced was when the engine was out out of the truck. I'm not entirely sure how to remove them without dropping them down inside, or how to put the new ones without the same results...

I'm going to look into that more now.
 
  #131  
Old 07-31-2015, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
I've used hose water everytime I've ever flushed anything.

What you can do if you haven't already, is remove the thermostat, replace the water neck and upper hose, and run the hose into the lower hose and run the engine while it flows out of the top hose. Go until it's clean.
3rd times a charm with that pesky thermostat.

Does it matter if I leave the lower hose attached or not? I guess if I left it attached on the engine side I wouldn't have water everywhere.

Back to the ol' fun in the sun with the hose routine. (while googling about freeze plugs)
 
  #132  
Old 07-31-2015, 11:37 PM
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Do I need a new radiator or...?

You want to disconnect the lower hose from the radiator and shove the garden hose in it and either seal it up with duct tape or clamp your hands around it so water goes into the engine and not all over everywhere else.
 
  #133  
Old 08-01-2015, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by miihere24
I did not replace those. I tried to Google it and the only time I saw them being replaced was when the engine was out out of the truck. I'm not entirely sure how to remove them without dropping them down inside, or how to put the new ones without the same results...

I'm going to look into that more now.
I meant the drain plugs approx. center of the block down by the oil pan, just above it. You unscrew those and all the rust and sediment in the bottom of the block's cooling jackets will come out. You might have to keep poking something in those holes to keep them from getting plugged up from the sediment passing through them.
The freeze plugs you mentioned here can easily be replaced if they look like they are rusting out from the inside. Poke 'em with something metal like a punch. Not with a hammer but not a love tap either. If the punch breaks through they are rusting away on the inside and would soon create a hole and leak. Let us know if you want to change 'em. One of us will explain how.
 
  #134  
Old 08-01-2015, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
I meant the drain plugs approx. center of the block down by the oil pan, just above it. You unscrew those and all the rust and sediment in the bottom of the block's cooling jackets will come out. You might have to keep poking something in those holes to keep them from getting plugged up from the sediment passing through them.
The freeze plugs you mentioned here can easily be replaced if they look like they are rusting out from the inside. Poke 'em with something metal like a punch. Not with a hammer but not a love tap either. If the punch breaks through they are rusting away on the inside and would soon create a hole and leak. Let us know if you want to change 'em. One of us will explain how.
OHH. Okay. Hmm...I just saw this message and it's dark out now so I'll have a look tomorrow. I may attach a photo to make sure I've got the right location. I didn't have time to do any more flushing today. I'll give it all a try!!
 
  #135  
Old 08-02-2015, 10:01 AM
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Distilled is the water of choice because it has no minerals in it. Minerals build up over time is all. Where I live our hose water was snow only hours ago so about the only minerals we have (which is nearly none) are what wash off the rocks as the snow melts and the water runs down the mountains. The tap water here is so soft that the chem labs use it as distilled water. Now if you're pumping it out of a well and it's loaded with heavy minerals like iron, etc. then you'll want to get distilled water in there eventually. But don't waste it flushing trash out of your engine block.

A cooling system is nothing more than a bunch of passageways that coolant (water/antifreeze) flow through to take heat from the engine. It's not a precision system like the oil where you can't afford to have hunks of stuff floating around in it. You won't hurt anything long term using tap water.

Your system doesn't need to be spotless. It would be nice but it just doesn't matter. What matters is that it doesn't over heat. I just drained my system to put new manifold gaskets in it. I've owned this truck 17 years and every time I have to drain the coolant it comes out with a tad bit of rust. When I pour the old coolant back in I just don't put in the last few ounces that are loaded up with rust dust.
 


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