All of the 90s codes indicate electrical failures on the solenoids. Either you burned out all the solenoids at one (It could happen, but I've never seen it) or you have a wiring harness issue. I lean towards the wiring harness.

It could have lost the power feed to the solenoids. Those are the two red wires in the trans connector. They are pins 37 and 57 on the computer connector. Check them for +12 volts.

 

Where is that located? Kick panel on driver's side?

 

I had power at 37 when I hit the brake. That normal? I didn't see a 57. Highest I saw was like 54, I think?

 

Are you looking at the PCM connector? That's a 60 pin, and there is a 57.
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Geez. I was totally looking at the wrong thing. I found it. What's the best way to test the pins? Pull it all out, computer and all? Pins 37 and 57 are on the bottom, and I wasn't sure I could get in there with the tester (got dark, so I'll have to try it later).

In the meantime, I sprayed some contact cleaner all in there, ran codes again, and 91 and 92 went away.

 

I think I've found my problem. I dropped the pan to do a fluid change. The connections for the solenoid pack look like this:





I took it apart, cleaned it and put it back together for pics so I could compare with what a new one looks like. Some of the pins don't touch at all, where other probably juuuust barely make connection.

Also, there's an O-ring missing off one of the solenoids and the the little plastic thing that covers the board was all loose. I imagine previous owner was in here doing something and goofed it up.

I might try soldering it, but my soldering never turns out great. I might try it anyway and see if I can test it before putting it all back together. And I don't know what the deal is with that one pin sticking way out.

 

That one pin sticking out looks like it broke off of the wiring harness end.

 

I looked there. I was pulled/pushed down.

I didn't bother soldering it. Just ordered another one.

 

To wrap things up: I received the replacement solenoid pack and put it in today. There's definitely a 1-2 shift that wasn't there before. I also did the torque converter lock up test and that passed. So everything seems good. Yay.

I need to go for a little test tow to make sure my fancy new tranny cooler does, but I think it'll be ok. Here's to hoping.

 

Good luck and thanks for the update.

 

Excellent! Those E40d can be intimidating and you nipped this one!

Thanks for the update. Nice to see how stuff ends.

 

Great to see you got it going!

 

In case someone reading this can benefit, my trans temp in my 96' F150 5.8L/E4OD 3.55:1 gearsets and 33x10.5r15 tires with 231k on it and factory super cool never exceeded 166°F on I-80 eastbound from Laramie WY (5% grade for 6 miles or so) running 70mph. Cruising around town or less demanding driving is around 155°F. This is all empty, ambient air temp of 80°F. To monitor the temps I'm using the OBDII readout from the PCM with the Torque Pro app on my android phone and an Elm327 bluetooth adapter (those with OBDII equipped trucks, I recommend this setup!). Point is that not everyone needs a huge cooler. I am interested to watch my temps while towing and while 4 wheeling though.

 

Well, I went for my test tow today. Put the horse in the trailer and everything. Truck did just fine, but I noticed a drip under the bell housing when I got back. Ugh. Guess the front seal will need to be replaced as well.

This poor truck. There is evidence of jury rigging all over the place.

A side note: When I initially refilled the tranny fluid, I overfilled it. To take some back out, I pulled a hose off a line and started the truck. I did this a couple of times. But the last time, it seemed like the fluid was coming out real slowly. Note quite a trickle, but not much better.

When I had the pan out, I blew out the lines w/ and air compressor until barely any fluid came out, so I don't think it's clogged anywhere.

I wonder if my pump is going out?

I also wonder if I should just retire this thing from towing and get a different tow rig.

 

There is a flow rate spec somewhere around here, you can test the pump output that way. You could always swap to a manual transmission as well. I plan on doing that eventually when stuff quits breaking... started with a bad brake booster, then rear driveshaft u-joints, then transfer case, now front driveshaft u-joints and also has started leaking coolant AGAIN from God-knows-where that pools up on top of the water pump. I told her if she doesn't quit breaking stuff soon that I'm gonna blow her up and use the leftovers as yard art.

The funny thing is she hasn't really been off-road or mudding much lately. Just proves my theory that Fords only break if you baby them, they NEED to be worked hard to stay in shape!