OK.... So I'm following along and there was mention of a Turbonetics turbo. Then... the OP posts the picture of a turbo and before reading the text, I'm thinking "That's not a turbonetics. That's a Garrett GTP38R, I have one just like thhaaa.... Wait a minute. That's mine in the picture, before I replaced the intake plenums. Maybe I'd better read the text."

Good job finding the boost leak.

 

That's funny Tugly

I searched on the site to see what was missing and your picture came up. Thank you for posting!

Yes, the old man's truck does have a turbonetics turbo.

So here is where I am at:

• Found the O-ring was missing, huge boost leak
• found one intercooler boot leaking
• found heavy white smoke on start up
• thought it was oil in intake system so i removed and cleaned the intercooler, pipes, and all the boots. Ordered new intake pentium boots from riff raff (cracked)
• realized, thanks to this site, i should ask about burning oil (injectors)
• old man says the truck burns 1-3 qts every couple hundred miles! Why didn't he tell me this....
• Pulled injectors, went to xtreme diesel and got new orings
• install injectors with new orings on driver side (ran out of time for pass side)
• realize i messed up sucking the oil/fuel out of cylinders, will have to tear back into it
• Noticed the the turbo pedestal had some oil on it. Decided to remove turbo and pedestal and just replace orings (on order from riff raff) i think i may have over torqued the turbo bolts last summer when i gutted the pedestal
  

I ordered the parts from riff raff to fix the boost gauge leak. I also got a turbo install kit, fuel filter, turbo o-ring, and i got a IAH delete from xtreme diesel.

I am in FL until sunday and will update when back in jersey and start wrenching again.

also, Xtreme diesel sold me some special oil stuff "Rev X" and said to put it in the pump. Anyone use this stuff? it was EXPENSIVE

 

Sounds like you are well on your way!


If you have fuel/oil/coolant in the cylinders, leave the engine off and (no Cat, right?) use a BIG ratchet to turn the crank by hand. It will throw all the stuff out the exhaust, WITHOUT hydrolocking the motor.


Yes, it will smoke and smell like the dickens for the first 10-15 mins, but your motor will thank you


The orings are cheap from RRD and easy to replace.


Have you rebuilt your fuel bowl yet? Now would be a good time with all the other stuff out. Make sure you get new Parker sleeves for the fuel lines while you're at it.



When you are rebuilding the bowl, you may want to add a 90* elbow for a fuel pressure gauge to the bottom threaded hole in your bowl. I had to have the drain assembly off to add the 90* fitting, but glad I did. Gasoila is the sealant of choice here.



"Oh yeah, it does use oil, too" LOL! I know that feeling EXACTLY!

 

and no need of REV-X..6.oh guys use that...

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^What Tim says....ditch the rev-x^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

Rev-X is to treat "Stiction" in a 6.oL HEUI injector. While the 7.3L HEUI is related, it doesn't have the red hair and propensity for getting into trouble. The 7.3L HEUI injector just looks at you with consternation, and says "Uh... thanks for the Rev-X... I guess. All I wanted was good clean oil and good clean fuel with a lube/Cetane bump."

 

Okay moving forward.

Just got back from FL on Sunday Morn and messed with the truck. Installed the O-rings on the pass side injectors.

Is there a gasket between the turbo and the up-pipes?

 

There is no gasket between the collector and turbine inlet. There is a compression donut on each up pipe where they fit into the collector.

 

Thank you

hoping to fire her up tonight

 

HELP

i messed up...

I hydrolocked it....

I thought I sucked all the crap out of the cylinders but I guess not.
Anyway to unlock it without tearing the whole damn truck back apart?!

I can rotate the crank almost all the way around but gets stuck.

I have not tried the starter in fear of damage.

If i work the crack back and forth will it eventually clear out?

 

Give it a try, it should work. I know a guy that used the starter but I don't recommend it. Other wise you pull the back glow plugs if that's the ones you started with. If not all the glow plugs and turn it over by hand till it clears. Good luck,

 

ugh i hate doing things twice. I just got it all back together...

going to try moving it back and forth tomorrow. If not, ill have to tear back into it.

 

Important addition: Do NOT have your head or anything over the cylinder when turning the crank. I suggest covering with a towel, paper, something.

Oil/fuel/coolant WILL shoot across the garage or off the hood. This happens when cranked by HAND (can't imagine with the starter )

Ask me how I know, LOL!

 

Okay going to pull the glow plugs on the driver side and hand crack it today after work

Good news is that I re-pressure tested the system and I am leak free!
I removed the whole system
Washed the oil out of the intercooler
cleaned all the pipes
cleaned all the boots
replaced the boots going into the intake of the motor
replaced some clamps
installed a oring after the turbo
installed and wired a AIH delete
plugged the old boost fitting
installed new boost fitting at the new AIH plug
installed new injector orings

 

Important tip here: After you've verified all the oil/fuel is cleared from the cylinders, bump the starter several times with the glow plugs out (rags over the holes)and the 42-pin connector still disconnected. This will get the last remnants of oil out of there.

Install the glow plugs and make all your connections, but do not install the valve cover. Hook up your 42-pin connector and secure anything and everything that can either touch a moving part or get sucked into the turbo. This means putting your rags/paper towels, shirt sleeve, or family pet at least 20 feet away from the truck.

This may sound crazy, but start the truck - it will not shoot oil out. it will be a stubborn beast on the first start, so don't panic. Run your starter no more than 4 or 5 seconds at a single blast. The reason for this is not to protect the starter, but to prevent the Injector Pressure Regulator from going runaway. This would not be the end of the world, but a runaway IPR puts some pretty high Injector Control Pressure on your injectors with air in the oil, and it's not ideal. 4 or 5 seconds cranking, break for a few seconds, repeat as necessary.

Once started, leave the engine running. Watch the pretty bouncy thingies and shoot some video, pictures, or just stare at them. Look and listen for anything different between the cylinders. Big air bubbles from a glow plug hole? Pushrods look straight while in motion? No "clacking" from a rocker arm? No oil oozing out at the base of the injector? Oil spurts out the injector spouts?

Once bored with staring at blurry rocker arms, clean up some of your tools, grab a beverage, pet the dog, do whatever it takes to stall for time and allow the engine to really warm up. After the engine is good and toasty, shut it off and re-torque the injector bolts. You'll likely get another 1/4 to 1/2 turn out of the bolts.