77 F150XLT Rebuild
#1
77 F150XLT Rebuild
Hello FTE,
I'm Mike from NW New Jersey. I'm a motorcycle mechanic. I usually work on air cooled, carbureted, inline-4, mid 80's Japanese motorcycles. Very simple machines to work on so this will be a step up.
I just bought a project truck
I had been looking for a good truck for about 8 months. Looked at 4 before getting this. The PO was a good guy and had owned it since 2004. I think we were both ok with the price. He used it for what it was made for but kept it out of the elements. I was happy to own an american truck again but when I decoded the vin.....yup, built in Canada. Gotta love that.
Interesting 45 mile ride home. 16 year old tires, Power steering fluid pissing everywhere. Rode like a wagon with an angry horse. Bucking and dodging in random directions. Top speed was around 50 before it made too much singing for comfort. It didn't really like making a right turn and when the PS fluid ran out it was on then off every other second. Not to mention being able to turn the wheel 4 inches in either direction before it did anything but I saw a thread for that.
Solid frame, manageable surface rust but needs a ton of work. This thread will not be much about cosmetics because I don't really care about how it looks. I think it looks good as it sits. Maybe some bigger rims and I need to stop the rust but my only concerns right now are mechanical. I'll start with all fluids and filters changed. Everything made of rubber needs to be replaced, especially in the suspension. I always go in with the assumption that everything is as old as the machine. This is a really good forum and the search function is excellent. I already got some great help when I was thinking about buying the truck. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-c6-issue.html
The speedometer is off but I saw a thread for that. I'm still confused on the stock tire sizes but thats a little down the road. 1st on deck is a carb rebuild because it's leaking fuel and I can rebuild a motorcycle carb in my sleep. This is not a motorcycle carb.
Doesn't look too bad for 37 years old. All the linkage has me a little nervous about reassembly but I took at least 100 pictures so it should be ok. Either way its all going in the ultra sonic filled with Pine-Sol. Replace all rubber, clean all metal. What I could use help with is identifying parts. For example, whats this?
A loop that went inside the manifold connecting some part of the choke to the carb. The hard line is now soft. I'm hoping thats something I can replace because fabricating this would be difficult. Especially since I don't know why its there.
And whats this?
I'm guessing its part of the choke and some kind of solenoid but I don't know how to test it. If its a $5 part I'll just replace it but I don't know what its called or what it does.
Thats a good introduction for now. You may of noticed I'm trying to figuring out the right pic sizing for this forum and I should probably flip the cardboard over on my work bench.
Oh 1 last thing. If anyone sees the passenger side friend of this
Its the only thing stopping me from getting historic plates so I can have free registration and no inspection for life. I know I could buy a new one but I'd rather it had some patina.
Other than the power steering pump rebuild, figuring out why they disconnected the rear tank, which is probably why the fuel gauge doesn't work. Rebuilding the entire brake system will also happen along with new tires before it sees the road again. I'm hoping I can get the bulk done before winter. Oh and that C6 issue.
I'm Mike from NW New Jersey. I'm a motorcycle mechanic. I usually work on air cooled, carbureted, inline-4, mid 80's Japanese motorcycles. Very simple machines to work on so this will be a step up.
I just bought a project truck
I had been looking for a good truck for about 8 months. Looked at 4 before getting this. The PO was a good guy and had owned it since 2004. I think we were both ok with the price. He used it for what it was made for but kept it out of the elements. I was happy to own an american truck again but when I decoded the vin.....yup, built in Canada. Gotta love that.
Interesting 45 mile ride home. 16 year old tires, Power steering fluid pissing everywhere. Rode like a wagon with an angry horse. Bucking and dodging in random directions. Top speed was around 50 before it made too much singing for comfort. It didn't really like making a right turn and when the PS fluid ran out it was on then off every other second. Not to mention being able to turn the wheel 4 inches in either direction before it did anything but I saw a thread for that.
Solid frame, manageable surface rust but needs a ton of work. This thread will not be much about cosmetics because I don't really care about how it looks. I think it looks good as it sits. Maybe some bigger rims and I need to stop the rust but my only concerns right now are mechanical. I'll start with all fluids and filters changed. Everything made of rubber needs to be replaced, especially in the suspension. I always go in with the assumption that everything is as old as the machine. This is a really good forum and the search function is excellent. I already got some great help when I was thinking about buying the truck. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-c6-issue.html
The speedometer is off but I saw a thread for that. I'm still confused on the stock tire sizes but thats a little down the road. 1st on deck is a carb rebuild because it's leaking fuel and I can rebuild a motorcycle carb in my sleep. This is not a motorcycle carb.
Doesn't look too bad for 37 years old. All the linkage has me a little nervous about reassembly but I took at least 100 pictures so it should be ok. Either way its all going in the ultra sonic filled with Pine-Sol. Replace all rubber, clean all metal. What I could use help with is identifying parts. For example, whats this?
A loop that went inside the manifold connecting some part of the choke to the carb. The hard line is now soft. I'm hoping thats something I can replace because fabricating this would be difficult. Especially since I don't know why its there.
And whats this?
I'm guessing its part of the choke and some kind of solenoid but I don't know how to test it. If its a $5 part I'll just replace it but I don't know what its called or what it does.
Thats a good introduction for now. You may of noticed I'm trying to figuring out the right pic sizing for this forum and I should probably flip the cardboard over on my work bench.
Oh 1 last thing. If anyone sees the passenger side friend of this
Its the only thing stopping me from getting historic plates so I can have free registration and no inspection for life. I know I could buy a new one but I'd rather it had some patina.
Other than the power steering pump rebuild, figuring out why they disconnected the rear tank, which is probably why the fuel gauge doesn't work. Rebuilding the entire brake system will also happen along with new tires before it sees the road again. I'm hoping I can get the bulk done before winter. Oh and that C6 issue.
#3
Good looking pickup you got there!
The old motorcraft is a very simple carburetor and very user friendly to work on.. The pine sol is an excellent cleaner
The first picture of the carb part is the stoveplate assembly, it heats the Carb in the winter
Your second Carb pic is the throttle position solenoid.. It is likely not hurt, just put some pine sol on a hard bristled tooth brush and it'll turn new
a link to my latest pine sol cleaning
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pine-sol.html
The old motorcraft is a very simple carburetor and very user friendly to work on.. The pine sol is an excellent cleaner
The first picture of the carb part is the stoveplate assembly, it heats the Carb in the winter
Your second Carb pic is the throttle position solenoid.. It is likely not hurt, just put some pine sol on a hard bristled tooth brush and it'll turn new
a link to my latest pine sol cleaning
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pine-sol.html
#4
#5
Wow this forum is awesome. 20min later and I already got answers.
Jdeshler is the stoveplate assembly replaceable? Its not something I'm finding on rockauto. Part# might be asking a little much but would be awesome.
2nd pic. I thought it was a solenoid which doesn't test well without current. I can clean it up a little but I'm not sure what a throttle position sensor is without a computer.
The inside of the carb doesn't scare me. It all looks the same just in different places. The outside linkage is what is new to me. On a motorcycle I got a choke cable, a pull throttle cable and a push throttle cable. Thats it.
Jdeshler is the stoveplate assembly replaceable? Its not something I'm finding on rockauto. Part# might be asking a little much but would be awesome.
2nd pic. I thought it was a solenoid which doesn't test well without current. I can clean it up a little but I'm not sure what a throttle position sensor is without a computer.
The inside of the carb doesn't scare me. It all looks the same just in different places. The outside linkage is what is new to me. On a motorcycle I got a choke cable, a pull throttle cable and a push throttle cable. Thats it.
#6
Thanks march. The C6 issue is down the line because it wasn't the worst part about the ride home. I'm always making a mess on my bench so the empty beer cases are easily disposable. I learned a while ago not to over indulge while working on a machine. A few bouts with the bolt extractor will teach you.
#7
I guess I have to add to keep the interest that their will be some engine modifications. Its a 351M which with the replacement of the crank and pistons becomes a 400. At the very least I will shed as much cast iron as I can. Considering the intake manifold weighs about 80lbs and is heavily rusted. If I'm only getting 10mpg I should at least be able to melt the tires.
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#8
So I've been researching this stovepipe issue. This thread explained it well. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...etup-help.html
So its something I need and is a good design. Seems the easiest fix is to just replace the side that broke off. It doesn't appear that anyone sells this separately so fabrication is the only option.
So its something I need and is a good design. Seems the easiest fix is to just replace the side that broke off. It doesn't appear that anyone sells this separately so fabrication is the only option.
#10
I have these mirrors on three of my trucks and noticed two of them are different. Once I have the mirror in hand I will shoot you a PM with a pic. You cover cost of shipping and it's yours.
#11
#12
I'm with you Jdeshler on the Pine-Sol. I use a 50/50 with water in my ultra sonic and it works great. The smell does get to my head eventually and I should probably where gloves because it really dries out the skin. Works as good as kerosene but its not flammable and when it turns black just dump it down the drain. Not to mention that its cheap. Ultra sonic for a few rounds then soap and water, air compressor, then brake cleaner through every hole and passage then more air compressor. Here's a before
I forgot to take an after but will before I put it back together. The main didn't quiet fit.
Just had to spin it a few times. The smaller parts fit a lot better.
Since the ultra sonic does most of the work for me I decided to start on the interior.
Took the seat and the carpet out and it looks beautiful. Floor pans look just as good on the other side. The worst part after some light sanding with the orbital and discovering I'm out of rust converter.
Also discovered that since it has a fuel tank in the cab the seat doesn't fold down? The tank in the cab will be removed anyways. I am looking into putting a larger bed tank in. Might need a stronger fuel pump. Either put a latch on the current seat or it looks like a junk yard seat runs about $100. Longer rails would be nice so I could sit a little further back but that looks like a lot more work.
I forgot to take an after but will before I put it back together. The main didn't quiet fit.
Just had to spin it a few times. The smaller parts fit a lot better.
Since the ultra sonic does most of the work for me I decided to start on the interior.
Took the seat and the carpet out and it looks beautiful. Floor pans look just as good on the other side. The worst part after some light sanding with the orbital and discovering I'm out of rust converter.
Also discovered that since it has a fuel tank in the cab the seat doesn't fold down? The tank in the cab will be removed anyways. I am looking into putting a larger bed tank in. Might need a stronger fuel pump. Either put a latch on the current seat or it looks like a junk yard seat runs about $100. Longer rails would be nice so I could sit a little further back but that looks like a lot more work.
#13
I do have what appears to be an oil leak into the cab. Now that I have the cab cleaned out it should be a little easier.
I know this is a terrible pic but just to the passenger side of the trans tunnel it appears to be brake fluid dripping from somewhere on the firewall. I know its not brake fluid because I opened the brake MC and it looks like a chocolate milkshake in there. I'm not sure what it could be but its a steady stream.
I know this is a terrible pic but just to the passenger side of the trans tunnel it appears to be brake fluid dripping from somewhere on the firewall. I know its not brake fluid because I opened the brake MC and it looks like a chocolate milkshake in there. I'm not sure what it could be but its a steady stream.
#14
I don't think its an oil leak. Probably just brown water but I can't tell where its coming from. Its been raining everyday lately and there's always a small puddle on the floor. The cowl seal is missing so I just put gaff tape over the gap while I wait for the seal to get here. I can't find any parts locally. I have to order everything. I'm trying to figure out how to take the heating duct out but the manual is telling me to take out bolts that aren't there. Its looking like I'm going to have to take the whole dash apart which sucks but I can't have water leaking into the cab. Either way the carb rebuild kit still isn't here and I don't want to take the powers steering apart until I get the carb back together. If anyone has any ideas where water could be coming in from I'm all ears.