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HELP - I need to replace my 7.3 Turbo Diesel engine in my 99!

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Old 06-01-2015, 02:59 PM
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HELP - I need to replace my 7.3 Turbo Diesel engine in my 99!

I'm new to the forum... and in a tight spot, as I need to replace the engine in my 1999 7.3 Turbo Diesel. I've been looking at an engine with Black Water Engines, and it seems like a square deal, my problem is that I also need to replace the injectors and cups. I'm seeing injector prices all over the board, and I have no idea which ones are good enough. I'm running out of budget as well between the cost of the engine and the injectors. Not sure what all I need or who to turn to for info - hoping someone can give me some direction here! I'm in over my head, and I don't understand the process, but I do have someone reliable to put everything in for me. I know all of the injectors are buzzing, but weak (whatever that means). I also know my engine isn't toast, but with almost 300k miles, we decided that it makes more sense to replace it now rather than patch it back together and wait for the next thing to go.... Any help would be appreciated!
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 03:06 PM
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Contact Clay at RiffRaff Diesel. (RIFFRAFF FORD DIESEL PERFORMANCE PARTS)
He would be my first stop for parts without breaking the bank and his wealth of knowledge... Well he prolly forgot more than I know.

As for the rest of the info for your learning pleasure... Grab some coffee, have a seat and just start reading. There is a TON of great information on this site. Look up Injector Buzz. And check out some of the "sticky" threads on here. You will be speaking in a foreign tongue and acronyms like an alien in no time.
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 04:46 PM
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For the record, 300k miles is not a scary number for these engines. We have members with 400k and 500k rolling around. Plus these are expensive engines.

Tell us about what's wrong with the truck and maybe we can save you $6000 or so. Let's start with what month the truck was built so we know if it an "early" or "Late" 99 model.
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 05:35 PM
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I agree with AAWL above, (or all of the above).


Quarter million on my 99 and still going strong.


What is the main reason or reasons your looking to scrub the plant??


Your a new user her. Are you new to diesels and strokers in particular.


Is it smoking, losing power, painted pink? Why are you looking at replacement at this stage.


Welcome to FTE. If you want to jum out and replace the heart just because you want to. And yours is still running, I'll take a video of it running and offer you a price and I'll pay shipping.


On the other end. If it's a runner and your having symptoms that you would like to see if you can resolve. Grab a cold one and tell these people what is going on.


9 times out of 10, it's repaired for very little or an appreciably cost efficient number.


Take the time to tell us a FULL story. It's fun for us, and monetarily biased toward you.


Glad to have you in here.


Denny
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 06:43 PM
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The REST of the story!

Okay - you asked for it, so here it comes!! I am a woman - there, I came out with it! I'm relatively handy, change my own oil and fuel filters, and that's about the extent of it! My husband is a diesel mechanic - who engineers on a salmon tender boat for 2 months at a time.... my truck quit just a few days before he had no choice but to leave, and I cannot be without it - I need it to water my livestock, just for starters! He ran what diagnostics he could before he left, and here's what we know:

It has been burning oil for about 6 months off and on. Took a trip fully loaded all the way to CA and back from Montana (2000 miles) and didn't use any oil.... but here around home, it's been using quite a bit. We've developed a whining - it's weird - he thinks it's one of the rods spinning - hasn't thrown a rod yet, but it's coming. When the engine quit last week, I was driving down the highway with a trailer on. All of the sudden lost power and it shuttered just a bit before it died. Not a violent death, but definitely a shudder. He thought we blew a rod. He thought the air intake was plugged. He thought it could be a fuel issue.... $600 later (my insurance doesn't pay to tow a trailer with livestock in it and we were stranded in the middle of the highway), we got it home and he was shocked to find that it started! Ran okay even at an idle for a bit before starting to shudder and die. He ran sea foam through the engine - hoping it was simply the injectors. No improvement. He buzz tested all of the injectors: they all buzz, but they're all weak (I don't know what that means). Engine failed the compression test (I don't know what that means). I know that the engine could be remanned - but honestly, with him gone, I just need it fixed and reliable. I cannot be without it. He did not get to do all of the testing he needed/wanted to do, but he knows it needs all new injectors/cups, new valve head covers and a full ring job - just for starters. When I price parts, I came up with about $2500..... If I can get a new engine for $4000, our thought was to just replace the engine now rather than trying to piece it back together with him out of the picture. The Blackwater engine is $3400 - I'd pay for the better ARP studs - that's another $650 - so I'm looking at $4050..... I can do that. But I also need to buy all new injectors/cups - and there is such a wide array and the pricing is all over the board. I don't know what I need. All I know is that I need to get it back on the road! My truck will start right up and run for about 5 minutes at an idle before it dies - maybe my engine is worth more than just the $1500 core? I don't think I can post photos or video with a free account, but I do have video of it running just a couple of days ago. It sounded so good at first that I thought the sea foam fixed the whole problem.... but it didn't! Thanks - sorry I wrote a book!!
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 06:47 PM
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I will say one other thing: right up until it died - that mother ran like a stripped arsed ape! I LOVE the truck!
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 06:59 PM
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Hi again,


Using and burning oil are two separate things. You stated you tripped and didn't use any/much, but around the home you lose/burn a lot.


Have you checked to see that you are not dropping oil when it's parked.


These rigs will not start/run long if the level is low period. They shut themselves down.


If you don't have a huge plume of blue smoke. Your problem could be very simple.


Check your oil level and top it off. Start the truck and do an inspection below. If it runs like a raped ape and then shuts down, we can help.


Check your level and do the inspecto and repost. All ears here?!
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:01 PM
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OK...You GOTTA post up where you live. City and State. Just do it. Likely someone here lives close by and can come help you. There is this thing we call the "FTE Brotherhood," and that means people help others out of the kindness of their heart, not for money or anything else.

What is your fuel tank level? If it is below 1/4 of a tank, odds are it's a "free fix" in that your intake funnel/umbrella broke, and it's sucking air. Just fill it up past 1/4 tank, cycle the key a few times, etc. and see if she'll start. Or, it could be a clogged screen in the tank, which just needs compressed air blown from the fuel pump back towards the tank in short bursts (make sure gas cap is removed).

There are a lot of "small problems" that seem like big ones...like your oil level is too low. Make sure it's not super low, if it is, the engine will shut off to protect itself (thanks to the computer onboard). It could be your CPS, or a sticky IPR. Your IPR nut could be loose or missing. Your fuel filter if it hasn't been changed every 10k can be very clogged with crap in the bottom of the fuel bowl. Again, none of these fixes is more than $25 and a few minutes of time...its the diagnosis that takes time. Based on it idling for a few minutes then dying, I bet it's either oil or fuel pressure related. Both likely easy fixes.

Seriously, likely someone from the Brotherhood will come help you diagnose. May save you a BOATLOAD of money.

OH, and as far as being a woman...we have "FTE Sisters" on here too! It's a big family. Welcome.
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:06 PM
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BTW, what's your oil pressure gauge read. 1/4 1/2 or just at the top of the oil can symbol. ANNNND does it change with rpm?


Good pressure on our gauges should be sitting in the oil can steady.
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:16 PM
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Another thing before I retire, Since you witnessed the shutdown on your trip. Where did ALL the gauges sit (if you can recall), that may help. Every detail helps.


Not what you had for lunch, not what you had for breakfast etc....tell it like you experienced it.


Did you notice a puddle under the truck while waiting for a tow. After it died did it try to start. Did anything look obviously out of place, like gauges bouncing or surging power? Spill it. It helps.


Some people sit and watch TV. This crew is chomping at the bit to do the CSI thing on your diesel. No ****.


Bust it open and don't worry about the book. You write and we'll read.


Denny
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:22 PM
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I've read too many horror stories about Blackwater to even consider using one of their engines.
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:29 PM
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Okay - I'm in Twin Bridges, MT. I'm going to the barn right now to check a few things out.... I know the fuel level is low - I was headed to the gas station (don't worry, I meant DIESEL!) right before it died. I will put some fuel in it and bleed the filter before trying to start it, and I'll video it. It doesn't leak oil at all. Never a puddle or even a drop - so it is using it. It's not a big smoker either though. When it initially died, my husband messed with the air filter and had me try to start it, and it sounded UGLY. Would not start. Would not, and sounded very knocky. That's when he thought that a rod had decided to go, as we had been hearing that whining.... but it didn't die violently enough to really hold that theory. I'm serious, there was a shudder, but not a rod knocking through the engine kind of hate. That's why he was so shocked when we finally got it home that it fired right up and actually sounded pretty darn normal at first. That's when he decided it was the injectors.... something about maybe they went out while we were driving and were hot or something? I don't know, can't remember what he said - as you can see, I'm in over my head. While it was sitting (we waited an hour for the tow truck) it did not leak any fluids of any kind. There is one other thing I just remembered. My husband did the sea foam thing and then he tried something else, I don't know what, and it sounded so good that he took it out.... made it about 4 miles before I had to come and pull him home with a chain. I'm tempted to try to drive it home, but I had better not - it's only a 1/4 of a mile, but I have no one to help me if it quits me on the road. I'll run recon at the barn. Fuel/fuel filter, level of gauges, double check for any puddles and I'll get the actual manufacture date. I'll be back in a bit! Thank you all for your help - tis a tough spot I'm in and of course my husband is beside himself not being able to diagnose and assist. No internet or cell service on the boat!!
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:48 PM
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1. Check your dipstick oil level just to be sure.
2. Fill with fuel above 1/4 tank. Cycle key on for about 15 seconds, three or four times before cranking.
3. Before starting, look to see if you have the IPR nut on the IPR, and feel that it's tight. The picture you see is as if you were standing on the passenger side of the engine. To find the IPR from the top front of the engine, look below your fuel bowl on the right side (driver's side). Make sure that nut is on there. Hand tight without a wrench is good enough to test it. Oh, and the IPR and nut are NOT purple...the nut will be gold colored. The purple is just for whatever they were doing to take this photo...


 
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Old 06-01-2015, 11:37 PM
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Following, hope it's just low fuel and broken pick up.
 
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:43 AM
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Sounds to me like ya just need to beg, borrow or steal another truck for a while, then fix this one. Even going with a reman engine will take time.

But if we're going to try repairs... you mention some scanner testing was done and also a failed compression test. Was that compression test done with the scanner, or with actual hoses and gauges under the hood? I ask since failing a hose n gauge compression test is bad juju. Scanner can't do that, really.

If you want to turn some wrenches, pull off the rubber air intake and look into the turbo. The wheel should not move much except to spin and the fins on the wheel should not be damaged. I'm thinking the turbo bearings are dying and the wheel was scrubbing around causing the whine sound.

And it's great that you can write so much about the symptoms, helps a lot.
 


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