It's time for replacement, can you tell me what tools are needed for the job, sockets, wrenches, what sizes, etc etc..
From start to finish including radiator if need be..
1992 with 351 windsor.

 

I did that job not too long ago but I can't remember what size sockets and wrenches are involved. Definitely a basic set will do but I don't even remember if the bolt heads take metric or standard tools. About the funkiest tool I used was slip joint pliers to twist the heater hoses loose on the fittings.

Sixto
93 E150 Chateau 5.8 191K miles

 

You'll need a decent set of socket, regular and deep and a set of open end wrenches to do the water pump on a 351W.

Me, I like using reversible ratchet wrenches on most repairs.

Most all the bolts for the water pump are 5/16", which means you'll need a 1/2" socket. You'll also need a 5/8" socket for the 3 bolts that hold the AC/power steering pump bracket on, and the alternator/air pump bracket on.

If your lucky, and the bolts don't snap off, then it's an easy job, if the bolts do snap off, then your in for a real challenge. What tool then, a mig welder to weld 3/8" nuts on the stubs of bolt to get then out of the block.

When you do install the new pump, you should get the pump stud kit and use new bolts, and use thread seal on the top 4 bolts, as they go threw the water jacket in the engine block, this keeps the water from getting into the bolt passage, and causing the steel bolt from corroding to the cast aluminum pump body, which causes the bolts to snap off in the first place.

A search here should bring up some woes on the water pump replacement for the 351W in the mid 90's era.

 

Hi gman,
I just changed my waterpump 3 weeks ago, so I can give you fresh info. Sockets and/or wrenches needed: 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", flat and phillips screwdrivers, rtv silicone sealer. The radiator can stay in place, the fan shroud and fan come off along with the belts, power steering pump and alternator, which you can pretty much slide out of your way leaving one hinged mounting bolt on each. If you have A/C, that can also be moved aside without upsetting the refrigerant. The lower heater core hose comes off and the 2 radiator hoses (upper and lower).Then the obvious stuff like draining the antifreeze (FIRST!). While all that is apart, I usually also replace the thermostat and gasket and bypass hose going from the waterpump to the thermostat housing. I have never had any kind of issues with frozen or rusted bolts and try to avoid any problems like that by using anti seize compound on the waterpump bolt threads that run through the water jacket/timing cover, which consists of 6 of these particular bolts. Hope this helps.

 

To avoid snapping those 4 long water pump bolts that are at the 12 & 6 o'clock positions on either side of the block (above and below the coolant ports in the block), you'll need something to heat the timing cover where those bolts pass through it to break the corrosion. Ford in the later years quit sealing the threads on these bolts allowing the coolant to seep past the threads and into the aluminum bores the bolts pass through. Remove all the bolts except these 4, then gently try to unscrew them. If they feel like they're twisting, then heat the timing cover (I used an electric heat gun to do this) then once the metal is hot, gently try again to unscrew those bolts, keep using heat and a gentle application of torque til the bolts unscrew. May take awhile, but it's far better to do it this way than to fight with broken bolts in the block in that tight space. When you put it back together, use thread sealer on those bolts and antisieze on the shanks where they pass though the timing cover.

 

^^^That's great advice----I'd add to gently try tightening and loosening those bolts after heat is applied and allowed to soak through the length. This "rocking" action has been known to dislodge that heavy corrosion collected around the bolts where they pass through the water pump housing.