Had the head gaskets replaced, new oil cooler installed, ect...got it back, rinsed and flushed the coolant, over time I'd get oil in the degas bottle, so I would flush every 5k miles when I got the oil changed, coolant temp was always in the normal range, oil temp always ran a little high, driving to the beach this last weekend, in 100 degree weather the oil temp soared to 245, causing the fan to blow like crazy, needless to say it back in the shop..

 

Oil in the degas bottle bad. Yes the 6.0 had a bad design on the oil cooler, but they made the upgrade and opened the passages so they would not plug up like the original, were did you get the oil cooler dealer I hope. They only sell the upgraded one, oil in the coolant scares me as in head gasket. Coolant and oil should only be 10-15 degrees apart, something is very wrong with your cooler. You might want to pressure test the cooling system first before you pull anything apart. then go from there, oil coolers are 2 orings and it's done. I would only use a Ford part with that as they know the upgrades that needed to be done, a plugged oil cooler wont let oil into the degas bottle.

 

What they did with the new design was to add one layer of coolant passage, going from 10 to 11. The passageways are still the same dimensions and pathway. That 10% may help taking heat out of the oil when new and clean, but doesn't really do much if they all have silicate getting deposited on the surfaces at the same rate. If you got 100k miles out of the original design, then the best hope for a production line clean cooling system (not likely) would be 110k miles with the new design if your coolant and maintenence is the same.

 

In my opinion If the coolant flush was not done well [long enough or hot enough] even the updated coolers can get clogged.
In the fleet we developed a method of flushing with heated coolant of 215 deg. for as many hours as we can [at least a whole shift]. With a water presure of 32 psi. Useing a non-vented cap and a seperate water pump.
I see too many post of people saying they only flushed for an hour sometimes even less.
Granted most people will not have that ability. The silica mixed with sand can harden like concrete. It takes a good while to dissolve even with strong chemicals.
The thing is after adopting that practice we never had a repeat cooler plugging failure. Over 100 different flushes.

 

I've done it for up to 6 hours in normal flow direction, pressure and at 190F with the Fleetguard Restore products without resolution. Could you describe your method with more details? Chemicals, direction of flow, etc. any reference to equipment?

 

Bear in mind this is for a shop environment may not be practical for home use.
The system I developed years ago for flushing the oil out of a 225 ft. vessel with a 150 ft. of keel cooler, needed a lot of water/chemicals flushed thru it for long time. It was set up to use 3 55gal drums.

I adapted for flushing radiators/cooling systems.
1 25 gal. drum with a 110v water heater element and thermostat assy.
1 2" Jabsco pump to circulate the mix thru the heater hose connections. We used vc9 mixed with a slightly stronger flushing chemical we used on our big trucks. A box of old time water softener [optional].
We also filtered while flushing with a full flow filter replaceable cartridge in a plastic houseing, hence the 215 deg. limit. Filter was temporaryly installed in line between radiator inlet and engine outlet[thermostat houseing thermo removed]. The filter and houseing are no longer available here.
To bad too cause the whole filter rig w/2 filters was under $20.

Not shure it will help but there it is.

 

Having spent a fair amount of time in Pecos running vehicle tests, you Texas guys get creative.

 

LOL sometimes ya just gotta to get the job done.
By the way I am actually a Cajun from Louisiana. Came over here about 25 years ago never left.

 

Spent a lot of time in Baton Rouge testing busses, too.

 

Well, that sure explains a lot. Lol

 

Hey now I resemble that remark LMAO

 

So I got the new Ford oil cooler put in, drove about a hour and half back home, Temps were never farther than 5 to 6 degrees difference, 192 coolant temp and 197 oil temp...I get home to wash the truck and I look in the degas bottle and I still have oil residue, I got with the mechanic that installed the new cooler and he said he didn't flush it after he installed the new cooler, and that I need to have it flushed...smh...smh...

 

simple green and lots of clean water after.

 

My question is, if you don't rupture the oil cooler or the EGR or blow a head gasket do you still have to do the Extreme flush you described? That is if you have high EOT and do an oil cooler replace before things get ugly can you do something less Extreme?

 

Does ford have a procedure to fix the residual oil? Does their flush do the job?