Help please
#1
Help please
New distributor
New coil
New distributor cap
New plug wires
New plugs
Runs great then all the sudden every plug begins to misfire hot or cold no pattern. Just does it at random times. When this is happening if you give it any gas it tries to die. It sounds like it's trying to run out of fuel at times but with a timing light all the plugs are missing. The pattern of misfire does seem to be consistent with each plug. If I keep it running and stay with it it will eventually pick up and go again and run fine till the next episode.
To describe the way it sounds and runs when this is happening it acts just like your driving and almost out of gas so you start to rock the truck back and forth to get the pump to pick up a little gas except in this case it may get 5 miles down the road or just 20 yards.
Also new fuel pump
New filters
New carb
And rebuilt engine
Any wiring diagrams would be helpful. By the way it's a 1971 with a 300 6 cylinder.
None of these problems existed until I rebuilt everything. I think I liked it better when it had no oil pressure or power but it ran. Lol.
Thanks in advance.
New coil
New distributor cap
New plug wires
New plugs
Runs great then all the sudden every plug begins to misfire hot or cold no pattern. Just does it at random times. When this is happening if you give it any gas it tries to die. It sounds like it's trying to run out of fuel at times but with a timing light all the plugs are missing. The pattern of misfire does seem to be consistent with each plug. If I keep it running and stay with it it will eventually pick up and go again and run fine till the next episode.
To describe the way it sounds and runs when this is happening it acts just like your driving and almost out of gas so you start to rock the truck back and forth to get the pump to pick up a little gas except in this case it may get 5 miles down the road or just 20 yards.
Also new fuel pump
New filters
New carb
And rebuilt engine
Any wiring diagrams would be helpful. By the way it's a 1971 with a 300 6 cylinder.
None of these problems existed until I rebuilt everything. I think I liked it better when it had no oil pressure or power but it ran. Lol.
Thanks in advance.
#3
#5
#6
Bad electronics exhibit weird symptoms when heated up and then return to "normal" when cooled down.
I'd refrain from parts swapping, especially large assemblies, because it starts to get real expensive unless they're under warranty.
Sometimes stepping away from the problem to get a clearer head works wonders. And desperation is not a substitute for troubleshooting.
I'd refrain from parts swapping, especially large assemblies, because it starts to get real expensive unless they're under warranty.
Sometimes stepping away from the problem to get a clearer head works wonders. And desperation is not a substitute for troubleshooting.
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I agree with dumping the points for an electronic unit, like an MSD unilite or something like that, but they used points from the first model A till 1975, 70 years of points and now your having this problem. I would look at your fuel. first unplug the vacuum advance on the distributor and leave it capped and drive it. see if it makes any difference. No, you need to check the carb. did you pop the top on it before you bolted it on. Most guy's like to check the internals, I have seen it all on reman. and brand new ones. Just takes one monkey behind the counter to drop it on the floor and everything is out of whack, I found vent tubes fell out and just laying in the float bowl, the needle hook on the float dislodged and would stick, running out of fuel till it hit a bump and then the needle would open, UPS could have tossed it around and a check ball gets out from the well. would have packing material in the bowl that covers the main jet once in a while. Been there and seen it, I always take the top off a new carb, clean it and readjust the float drop and level. I have a feeling that is were you will find something, than kick yourself in the *** later. doesnt take much to plug a jet, and an engine running lean will cause the timing light missfires you are seeing. Don't doubt Palea did some soccer with the carb. box, before it got to you. I found a dead fly drive a customer insane till he brought it in and said it started doing this after I put the new carb on., set your points and they should be good for 10,000 miles. Are you going for the third set? My 69 olds 442 had them and i changed them once a year, and I beat that car, yea I was a kid at the time, but never had a problem with them, switched it to HEI and didn't notice anything. Except the yearly change out. Just a tip. good luck and 1 good backfire will kill the powervalve, just a thought .
#11
Thanks guys. Went back to O'reily to get a new condenser and they had a new distributor so I took it because it was warantied. Put it on and runs fine. Dont know how long it will last lol and yes I do want to go to the pertronix but I had to buy a new distributor because the one on the truck was cracked around the flange that holds it in place. It did run but oil leaked due to crack in base. Money, hard headedness and the fact that it should work the way it originally was set up are all in not buying a pertronix at this point. I will say if this one takes a dump I'll be buying the .petronex.
Any suggestions where to get one and which one for a 6cyl
Any suggestions where to get one and which one for a 6cyl
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