just put on a van turbo with ww2 on. my boost is about 2 psi lower at 55mp then with stock turbo is this normal i have checked and no leaks, it sings loud and will go to 20psi fast driving have not towed so dont know what it will do. i know its bigger and takes longer to light and its a lot deferent in the way it behaves. should tow soon will be fun to see what she can do as i was surging bad before in the hills.

 

Sounds like expected results to me. I have been running mine with the original WW, but I would think the WW2 is a better option. Don't worry about total boost #'s, it's more about air flow than pressure. The rpm operating range for the van turbo is higher than your previous stock turbo.

Towing is were she really shines.

 

Yep, surge will be a thing of the past and your EGT's should also drop. I don't know if WW2 adds any 'lag' - but I thought the van turbo with SD wheel spooled like stock - even towing the 12.5k lb Toy Hauler at altitude. Good tunes probably contribute to that as well.

 

I had the van turbo and WW2....hated it.

 

That's not very informative Dan...

Stock injectors? What tuning? Exactly what did you hate about it?

Mike has 238/100's with WW2 and 1.0 exhaust housing (in between stock .84 and van 1.15) and that thing runs GOOD - even if he needs more air to get all the power those sticks can make and his BP's are probably scary when he's pounding on it...

 

I ran it with the 160/30's listed, DP Tunes. Started with the Ford AIS, small improvement in smoke when the S&B went on, not much though.

It ran really strong in an rpm band that I wasn't ever going to use...like it lit at 2400 rpm. Before it reached that point it was laggy and smokey. Now maybe some revisions to the tunes would have improved it, but I was done with DP for other reasons. I constructed the turbo in my sig...which was a lot better. Then Cleatus got me tuned up....and life has been pretty sweet since.

 

I can't see your sig on my phone, but clearly you had a tuning problem... 2400rpm's???

I didn't mean to call you out. Thanks for the added information!

Anxious to hear more as you get to drive it more Matt!

 

160/30's...Diesel Site D66 compressor wheel, 1.0 ex housing.... kinda a journal bearing 38R.

 

Yep. Good combo!!

 

So, I will assume that you guys recommend this over the 38r. If so, why, besides the bearing?

 

Both the 1.0 and 1.15 AR housings will yield cooler EGT's after adding a chip and when towing. The smaller the AR housing the quicker the spool up at lower RPM's but higher back pressures at higher RPM's. It's all a bit of give & take depending on your setup and driving habits.

 

So, can I assume that the 1.0 is a good compromise/happy medium between the two?

 

Correct, but a lot has to do with altitude as well.

 

OK. Air density?

I live at 2600' and tow from sea level up to about 5500's with the majority at around 1800'. Which would be best for my application?

Or is it not that simple?

 

The modded D66 is basically a 38r that you can rebuild later. You just throw a 38r away when it wears out. This option flows about the same amount of air with comparable spool times.

The van turbo plus WW2 can move similar amounts of air with lower BP's. And costs 1/2 as much even rebuilt with 360 thrust bearing and new outlet adapter. The WW2 is probably not a good choice with stock injectors due to slower spool.

I had no issues and highly recommend the van turbo and SD (stock) wheel with stock injectors and good tuning. Even towing the Toy Hauler in sig with the HAMMER DOWN 'cause my right foot is not connected to my wallet thanks to the high cholesterol fuel I burn.