Something is binding. You absolutely should not have any movement in the shift linkage by turning the steering wheel.

The partner in crime is a good way to work, if not and if you have a good level place like a garage and can get the rear wheels off the ground and resting on good jack stands, you should be able to start the truck and at a min. idle check the issues.


John

 

I strongly believe it is something internally in the transmission since I cant engage park manually with the linkage disconnected from the steering column. In the meantime I decided to tear apart the column to see why it binds and shifts gears when I turn the steering wheel. I removed the horn by pressing and turning counter clockwise. I removed the nut holding on the steering wheel. I pulled the wheel (requires 8mm bolts for those who may read this post in the future). Oh yeah there are two springs aswell that I removed. Now im at the signal switch. I unscrewed the lever and removed the 3 Phillips screws holding the switch down. The switch does move but there is something else providing resistance. I do not want to break the switch since it is plastic. Is there something im missing?

 

The wires for the switch run down through the column. At the very least, you'll need to pull/push the wires up through to get some slack to the switch. Best bet is to unplug the switch at the base of the column (the wires are color coded for reassembly) and push the harness up while gently pulling at the top.

~Steve

 

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I think it would be helpful to isolate the parking gear problem away from the steering column.

If you could follow these steps and report back, it may get us going somewhere. It will really help to have someone on the brakes inside the truck while you do this, by the way.

1. Disconnect the threaded shift rod (under the hood) from the steering column shift lever.
2. Push down on the shift rod to pass the transmission through at least some of the gear positions. You should be able to feel the detents.
3. Pull up on the shift rod, all the way up to put the transmission into Park. You might have to yank on it if there is internal damage, as mentioned earlier.
4. Now you need to test the Park position. I would test it with the engine off first, then move to tests with it running.

If you can get the transmission to easily and properly move into Park, so that it holds the truck by hand, then your problem is not with the transmission, but the adjustments.

Steering Column - Simply turning the steering wheel moves the transmission in or out of Park, then there are more issues to be evaluated.
Possible causes are:

1. Rotted (rusted out) cab mount
2. Something isn't bolted down properly
3. Misaligned steering column to the steering gear box
4. Torn or missing "rag joint"
5. Improperly mounted components
6. Internal binding in the steering column - low probability

Hope this helps.

 

Hi Banjo


Thanks for the advice. I have removed the threaded shift rod and manually shifted the transmission through all gears except park. Park is the only one I cant get which has lead me to confidently believe it is the parking pawl that is gone. It runs and shifts with no issues except with park. Another question I throw at you is can the parking pawl be replaced without dropping the transmission? My research indicates no.


To clarify, it only jumps from reverse to drive when I back up and turn the wheel. I started taking the column apart and all seems solid there. It is in amazing shape. The rag joint looks like new. One comment that really surprised me is the rusted cab mounts. The underside is rusted badly in some spots and the front body mounts are looking pretty bad. im shocked that that would be the cause to my gear jumping when I turn the wheel. Very surprised but I believe you. I think that would definitely be the problem in my case. The bodywork for that resolution is out of my time commitment and budget right now so I guess I have to put up with holding the gear shift in place for the 2 seconds while I reverse. it never jumps when driving forward......just reverse.

 

Rotted and collapsed body mounts are a frequent cause of problems with these trucks. Fortunately, reproduction parts are relatively cheap and available to be welded back on. It can be done without disassembling the truck, by the way.

Of course, the truck's transmission needs to be addressed. One option you might want to consider is to replace the COM with a C6. The higher cost of a COM rebuild might justify the costs in converting to a C6.

I know little about the COM, but I understand it is an expensive transmission to have rebuilt. The advantage is that it is an easy R&R job. Before you go any further, though, I would definitely get a transmission shop to drop the pan and evaluate the problem - it might be a simple as a failed retainer clip or something.

The C6 is a more robust transmission, but it will involve changes under the truck. You will need a complete setup, so I recommend a donor truck for the transmission.
Important: You will need a C6 from an FE engine, because the case must match the engine - and yours is an FE. This includes the 352, but most commonly will come from a 390 or a 360.

I would look for a donor truck 1973 - 1976, with an FE and C6, power disc brakes and power steering. You can harvest all the parts for a C6 upgrade and when you have the resources, upgrade to power disc and power steering options as well.

There are advantages to changes from a COM to a C6, but they may not present themselves as suitable in this situation.

Best of luck, and post back what you decide to do.

 

C6 was not used with 352's in any cars or trucks.

C6 introduced: In 1966 Passenger Cars initially with 428's, installed with 390's beginning in 1968. 1968(76) F100/350's with 360/390's.

1965/67 F100/350 352 came with MX Cruise-O-Matic. MX was once known as the BIG Cruise-O because there was also the FX that was known as the SMALL Cruise-O.