2006 4x4 CC w/118600 miles.


I think one of my rear calipers is sticking. I just noticed this morning. My truck was slowing quicker than normal when coasting. When I got to work and parked, I could smell something like a burnt smell almost.


What is the best way to diagnose this? I bought the truck 1-1/2 years ago with 98K. I don't know the history on the brakes.


If it is my caliper sticking, should I rebuild or replace the entire caliper?
I've never rebuilt or replaced calipers, so based on your recommendation, also include whether or not it's a DIY job for a first timer or if I should take it into my mechanic. Just trying to save some money if I can safely do it myself over the weekend.


Thanks in advance,
Mike

 

Replace the caliper. They're too cheap to worry with rebuilding IF you can even get the rebuild parts. Get some Russell speed bleeders and put in while you have the system open. They make flushing and bleeding VERY quick and easy.

AFA the job level, I think even a novice should to be able to proficiently accomplish this job in under 2 hours.

 

Thanks Partsman!

 

If your doing one caliper, I'd replace both on the same axle along with a set of new pads. If you smelled it they got pretty toasty. If the rotor is blue or creviced it should be turned or replaced depending on the run out. Min specs should be stamped on the rotor. Not trying to scare you but if they got that hot you need to inspect everything and flush the brake fluid. Don't forget to clean and lube the slide pins. It's not that bad of a job. Take your time and make it a fun project.

 

Agree 100%.
I did one side and them a couple of months later had to do the other. Would have been easier doing both of them at the same time.

 

Could be the caliper bracket if the sliding pin is stuck. They run about $60 each. Use TRT30 for a coupon code from Advanced Auto, buy on line and then pick-up in store, saves 30% or $50. Keep the cart to $150 or less to receive the highest discount, then just check out several times. Save's a bunch of money!

 

Funny guy....LOL

 

Did I make a joke?

 

you made him sniff his truck.. that's funny!

 

The fronts from advanced come with the brackets and pins. You get the whole lot minus pads And rotors. I also changed the rubber lines when u did my rear calipers. It is not a bad job to do At all just mske sure everything is tight and the lines are bled.

 

Thanks for the tips all. I drove home after work and everything felt normal. Parked in my garage and didn't have that smell from this morning. Not sure what to make of it yet but I will take things apart this weekend to get a better look. If I do it, I will definitely do both sides.

 

OP, would suggest you do not push brake pedal all the way to the floor to bleed brakes, if you have a lot of miles on your truck. Master cylinders have a tendency to build a wear spot for the pedal piston travel. After that point it is normally rusty since brake fluid has an affinity for water. If you have ever rebuilt a brake caliper, you know what I mean. If you depress the pedal all the way to the floor, you risk damaging the piston seal and you will have little or no pedal. Ask me how I know this.

Ed

 

When you buy you're caliper (if at a local parts store) get the loaded caliper. It will come with the everything except pads. Its a pain to realize that the the slide pins are bad than the boots than the mounting bracket being worn from a stuck caliper. Also since its on the rear if you need to change the rotor and if your from the north think about the ebrakes. If you live where the roads are salted they are probably stuck and you backing plate is rotted. This seems to be a fairly common problem with causing an apparent stuck calper in the rear since they just kind of fall apart and rub.

 

I was under the impression that a loaded caliper included pads.

it is possible that the OP's problem is a sticky caliper slide pin, an about $.02 of grease would fix it.
do both sides- so maybe four cents.....and of course atworse case- and with super high temps he could be looking at caliper, pads, pins, Rotor, heck Even wheel bearings can be wiped out....

 

Absolutely correct just wanted to say if you need to do them be prepared because running back and forth to the store, especially if its your only vehicle sucks. Better to have and not need than to need and not have. I'm just speaking from my experience since i bought a rust pile. The exterior looks used but underneath everything is rusting away. Everytime i touch something its seized or unusable.