1969 F250 7.3l swap
#47
#48
#49
Drill a hole 2 11/16" down from the pivot on the clutch pedal, weld in a 1/2" hardened hitch pin, and put the stock 80s master cylinder straight ahead of that. Quick and easy. The 80s pedal setup will put the master about where the left cylinder head wants to be, without relocating the brake booster.
The other option is to use the completely stock 60s pedal setup with a Wilwood or similar master mounted vertically inside the cab where the clutch rod used to go. Since this was a pushrod setup, you can just make a new pushrod to connect the actuator arm on the clutch pedal shaft to the new master cylinder.
As far as frame flex, my new build is centered around an 85 chassis. The rails are about twice as tall and thicker metal, but the real weakness is the narrow rear springs. You really need some sort of traction arm to prevent wheel hop. The springs flex way too easily, my original ones were bent backwards from the 360 that I built previously. Having 1500lbs in the bed and 9k on a trailer didn't help, but with the diesel it was even worse.
The other option is to use the completely stock 60s pedal setup with a Wilwood or similar master mounted vertically inside the cab where the clutch rod used to go. Since this was a pushrod setup, you can just make a new pushrod to connect the actuator arm on the clutch pedal shaft to the new master cylinder.
As far as frame flex, my new build is centered around an 85 chassis. The rails are about twice as tall and thicker metal, but the real weakness is the narrow rear springs. You really need some sort of traction arm to prevent wheel hop. The springs flex way too easily, my original ones were bent backwards from the 360 that I built previously. Having 1500lbs in the bed and 9k on a trailer didn't help, but with the diesel it was even worse.
#51
She is finally gonna be coming home this weekend. The field has finally dried out enough to get it out, it wasn't wet were the truck was but the hill up to it has been nonstop mud with all the rain we have been getting. Does anyone know if the sender in the tank will work with diesel or will I have to rig something because I want the factory gauge to work?
#53
#54
#56
Got to working on it today before work and the passenger side floor was soaking with some sort of rubbing compound the po had in a bottle that over heated and was leaking. Removed the new carpet and insulation and was out the cab i guess the lesson every one should learn from this is rubbing compound will remove paint if it stays on it long enough. And since It was in a field there were a lot of ants and other bugs in it so got it all cleaned up. I will have to redo all the electrical I turned the key with a new battery in it and got nothing to anything, he said it was running so looks like that field had them damn gremlins in it. After that I remover the radiator and ran out of time had to come to work.
#57