1969 F250 7.3l swap
#31
Just send the injectors off to R&D, he's pretty good at them.
The major issue with this engine in the pre-80 trucks is that the oil pan and steering linkage want to be in the same place. With the linkage and pan being much more friendly than I like, the alternator bracket rubs the underside of the hood.
My current build is on an 85 frame, both for a stouter frame and better layout.
The major issue with this engine in the pre-80 trucks is that the oil pan and steering linkage want to be in the same place. With the linkage and pan being much more friendly than I like, the alternator bracket rubs the underside of the hood.
My current build is on an 85 frame, both for a stouter frame and better layout.
#32
Just send the injectors off to R&D, he's pretty good at them.
The major issue with this engine in the pre-80 trucks is that the oil pan and steering linkage want to be in the same place. With the linkage and pan being much more friendly than I like, the alternator bracket rubs the underside of the hood.
My current build is on an 85 frame, both for a stouter frame and better layout.
The major issue with this engine in the pre-80 trucks is that the oil pan and steering linkage want to be in the same place. With the linkage and pan being much more friendly than I like, the alternator bracket rubs the underside of the hood.
My current build is on an 85 frame, both for a stouter frame and better layout.
#39
i have done many of custom projects,
the one thing i would have done is:
mocked everything up before you make it look good.
youre going to need some custom engine pads and do some drilling on the front cross member.
the engine looks good, but youll be cussing yourself out later when you install and pull the engine a number of times to get everything exactly the way you want it.
any chance you got another core?
the one thing i would have done is:
mocked everything up before you make it look good.
youre going to need some custom engine pads and do some drilling on the front cross member.
the engine looks good, but youll be cussing yourself out later when you install and pull the engine a number of times to get everything exactly the way you want it.
any chance you got another core?
#40
i have done many of custom projects,
the one thing i would have done is:
mocked everything up before you make it look good.
youre going to need some custom engine pads and do some drilling on the front cross member.
the engine looks good, but youll be cussing yourself out later when you install and pull the engine a number of times to get everything exactly the way you want it.
any chance you got another core?
the one thing i would have done is:
mocked everything up before you make it look good.
youre going to need some custom engine pads and do some drilling on the front cross member.
the engine looks good, but youll be cussing yourself out later when you install and pull the engine a number of times to get everything exactly the way you want it.
any chance you got another core?
#41
if you have the means, grab it!!!
you will thank yourself later, trust me!
nothing will **** you off more than taking that engine you just spent alot of time on, making it look nice, and scratching it with a chain, cross member, or other stuff!
and if you have to do any welding with the engine in, you dont want that jewel in there!
sure, it can be done, but if you can spend 50 extra bucks or so, its worth the preventive maintenance!
im on the verge of a custom IDI build myself! M-37 twin turbo and a ZF5, 2WD DRW.
i have a mock up block that i picked up for 50 bucks with cracked heads.
perfect for doing chassis fab with. and firewall mods!i picked up a mock up block (bare) for next to nothing.
IMO, i would re-shape the firewall before i did a body lift...
you have a very cool project
i just wish i could do something like this with my 71.
but shes been in my family since 1980.
and she runs great.
its gonna stay stock.
would you finish this already, im eager to see it
you will thank yourself later, trust me!
nothing will **** you off more than taking that engine you just spent alot of time on, making it look nice, and scratching it with a chain, cross member, or other stuff!
and if you have to do any welding with the engine in, you dont want that jewel in there!
sure, it can be done, but if you can spend 50 extra bucks or so, its worth the preventive maintenance!
im on the verge of a custom IDI build myself! M-37 twin turbo and a ZF5, 2WD DRW.
i have a mock up block that i picked up for 50 bucks with cracked heads.
perfect for doing chassis fab with. and firewall mods!i picked up a mock up block (bare) for next to nothing.
IMO, i would re-shape the firewall before i did a body lift...
you have a very cool project
i just wish i could do something like this with my 71.
but shes been in my family since 1980.
and she runs great.
its gonna stay stock.
would you finish this already, im eager to see it
#42
#43
you will want to mount the engine before you pull the cab.
and get the transmission at the right height.
IMO the frame does not really need to be boxed.
a stock IDI will put out almost the same numbers as my worked over 390.
that is alot of work. if this is what you want to do,
let me give you a few pointers.
1) use 1" x 1/2" steel tubes inbetween the frame and your boxing plate for things like steering box. i would also do the tranny cross member this way, so that you can slip it inbetween the boxed rails.
you do not want to go without, when you tighten it up, it will actually crush the boxed frame.
2) before you weld any plates in, run 1" or larger electrical conduit inside the frame rails for things like fuel lines, rear electrical, and brake lines.
IMO running these things on the outside of a boxed frame is ugly.
using the conduit, protects the lines, hides everything, and gives your truck that WOW factor.
3) its obvious that youre set on doing some custom work.
to me, this part of the project is the fun-est.
i would also gut all the stock cross members out and run 1.75 x .093 DOM roll cage tubing, welded to the inside of the frame rails before you box it.
it will make your project look a little slicker. again this is just my personal preference.
do as you wish, its your project. just trying to spread some knowledge ive learned in the 25 years of building some insanely custom cars...
are you done yet?
and get the transmission at the right height.
IMO the frame does not really need to be boxed.
a stock IDI will put out almost the same numbers as my worked over 390.
that is alot of work. if this is what you want to do,
let me give you a few pointers.
1) use 1" x 1/2" steel tubes inbetween the frame and your boxing plate for things like steering box. i would also do the tranny cross member this way, so that you can slip it inbetween the boxed rails.
you do not want to go without, when you tighten it up, it will actually crush the boxed frame.
2) before you weld any plates in, run 1" or larger electrical conduit inside the frame rails for things like fuel lines, rear electrical, and brake lines.
IMO running these things on the outside of a boxed frame is ugly.
using the conduit, protects the lines, hides everything, and gives your truck that WOW factor.
3) its obvious that youre set on doing some custom work.
to me, this part of the project is the fun-est.
i would also gut all the stock cross members out and run 1.75 x .093 DOM roll cage tubing, welded to the inside of the frame rails before you box it.
it will make your project look a little slicker. again this is just my personal preference.
do as you wish, its your project. just trying to spread some knowledge ive learned in the 25 years of building some insanely custom cars...
are you done yet?
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