I have a 2007 XLS, 2.3L Auto/AWD. About a month ago it quit running while driving, just shut off. When I tried to restart the dash made clicking noises, fuel pump grunt type noises, cluster stays in drive position even though floor shifter indicates I'm in park. Pulled a code P0606, replaced PCM. It started and ran for 20 minutes, made it about 1/4 mile up the road, shut off again. Now I can't pull a code, dash indicates I'm in drive while vehicle is in park, same noises etc. Anybody run into this before?

 

First thing I would check would be the switch on the transmission that operates the cluster indicator. I think it is called the MLPS, manual lever position sensor. I think it sends a signal to the computer indicating the selected gear, which in turn operates the cluster display. The signal is also used to control the transmission gear operation, such as OD, etc, using the solenoids. Do not know particulars.
When something goes dead, I would point towards bad grounds, corroded terminals & cables, all of which can be hidden under normal-looking parts. Sometimes things have to be disassembled for proper inspection. A battery that loses a cell will still have some voltage, but likely not enough amperage to operate a starter motor. It would not hurt to check the charging system also, as voltage spikes and droops can affect how things work...
tom

 

Thanks, I've checked everything including the MLPS, battery voltage, everything you suggested including grounds. Big problem is my MODIS can't link with the PCM to even see if there are any codes. I can hear the relays under the center console click but no crank. This may be a drop it at the dealer problem. Thanks again for your suggestions.

 

Can you swap relays from A/C to the PCM? Fuel relay reported making the pump run, so it should make the PC run.
t

 

While the Modis may not require it (most lesser scan tools do, I do not know about the SnapOns), check for battery power on pin 16 of the DLC. If none, check fuse F7 in the SJB.

A quick check of the PCED and the WSM shows that it gets a lot more complicated pretty quickly after that fuse and you'd need those resources to go through the possibilities.

 

Already did that too. I seem to have covered all the basics with this one. I'm suspecting a bad replacement PCM. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

Got the Escape back from the dealer. Seems the reman PCM I installed is shorted internally. Strange that it's doing the same exact thing as before---funny that. $2200 to repair---no thanks, reman PCM is under warranty I'll do it myself. Towed it home, I'll have to get more involved in verifying the dealers diag, in the meantime, the reman PCM is going back to the folks I got it from.......GRRRRRRRRR!