so i got the oil cooler taken care of and flushed the oil 3 times to be safe.(after 2 there was no more signs of being milky) so I drove it a couple times with no issues thought all was well til tonight. temp gauge never read over half way but after 18 mile on my way to work the engine temp light came on and truck shut off. popped the hood and the upper radiator hose going to the motor blown wide open . any ideas where i should even start to deal with this? any help is greatly appreciated. btw its a 1994 f350 with 7.3 idi turbo. weird part is coolant reservoir is still full. radiator was full when i left the house.

 

If the engine stalled, you're probably in deep doo-doo. There's nothing electrical that will do that based on temperature. So that might well mean the engine locked up. Okay, thinking it through, actually, ONE possibility is that you "heat soaked" the IP, which will shut down injection. Let's hope that's all it was. Do you know if the engine cranks?

Did you replace the thermostat when you did the cooling system? What coolant mix (anti-freeze to water) are you running? New hoses, or new clamps?

 

Its entirely possible that the hose just blew, especially if it was old.
Hopefully you didn't blow the engine.

Coolant reservoir only drains into radiator to replace what was pushed out by the coolant expanding as it warms up. If there is a hole in the cooling system it will suck air in the hole instead of coolant out of the reservoir.

Maybe the coolant flowing out of the hose doused the wiring for the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid and shorted it out stalling the truck.

 

it still turns over but wont crank as of 0230 this morning. i did not replace the thermostat as of yet. I just bought the truck with the understanding that the oil cooler needed replaced. although i found out this morning after talking to the previous owner that when i bought it it'd been sitting for a little over a year (wish i had thought to ask that when i bought it) i know the hose needs replaced now while in there ill go ahead and do the t-stat but which one do i go with? and if the IP got heat soaked do i need to replace or whats my best move there?
thank you for the help

 

tecgod13 where would i find the shutoff solenoid? do i need to replace or just dry off and test?

 

It should start and run with no coolant, blown hose, or a bad thermostat. Just don't run it more than 30 seconds or so. The FSS is on the injection pump. It is one of the two single wire connectors. With the key on you should hear it click when you connect and disconnect it. Does it seem to turn over faster or slower than before? Do you see smoke from the tailpipe while turning it over?

 

Only use the Ford/IH oem thermostat: Motorcraft E5TZ-8575-C or Navistar 1807974C94 They are available from Amazon for good price:

Any others than the Ford OEM thermostat will not work right and cause problems down the line.

 

True on the Motocraft stat, but like I was saying, I wouldn't put the effort into changing it when your engine may be no good. A tail light bulb has the same chance of causing a no start.

 

so i went to test it out. it does turn over easily. about same speed as it did before no slower or faster. it did puff out some white smoke when it first started but after that no smoke at all. only ran for 30 seconds then shut it down.

 

Good, you may have dodged the bullet then. Get that t-stat and hose replaced and give her a run.

 

So I installed new t-stat and new radiator hoses and a new belt while I was at it. I I drove it today and was doing good the first 20+ miles then started running hot. I don't know what's caused it this time. I have no white smoke no mixing that I can tell. I replaced t-stat with the part number suggested here. Would lack of coolant and straight water cause this?

 

Can't speak to these trucks in particular, but generally, yes, it might. Straight water boils at a lower temperature than 50/50 (or stronger) anti-freeze mix.

Hmm, the other thing notably not mentioned in this thread is the radiator cap. Maybe it's no longer holding pressure.

 

Ok I drained the water out and put in coolant and some water about 3.5 gal of coolant and almost 2 of water and replaced the radiator cap. Seemed to run well for 20-30 miles then started heating up. The temp gauge was reading around the L on the normal but the engine temp light came on. But it never started running rough or anything like it did the last time. When I got it home I let it idle for about 3 minutes to see if would hear back up (it didn't) then shut it off and after about 30 seconds started it again and it started right up temp still showed the same and the engine temp light wasn't on. Is this a normal range for these idi's to run or should I be worried or is there something I'm missing

 

put a real temp gauge on it, the dash gauge is not very accurate.

 

also not mentioned, check the fan clutch to see if it's still good. If the fan freewheels it is more than likely no good. you should also hear it when it engages, very loud, not hard at all to hear.