'73/'76/'79 F250 4x4
#16
I'll offer a couple of suggestions... If you still want to try to get the steering arm off suggest a good stout puller, around 8". Leave the nut on loose, get good tension on the puller then give the puller screw a sharp hammer blow. Has worked for me. Also, on the fuel tank how about the later style frame mount? Maybe one of your donors has good mounting hardware.
#17
1973/77 F250 4WD (High Boys) have 33 1/2" distance between the inner frame rails behind the cab, but...
D3TZ-5A772-A .. Rear Sway Bar / Obsolete
1973/79 F250 2WD (except Crew & Super Cabs) / 1977 F250 4WD (High Boys-before serial number Y20,001).
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2) D7TZ-5K484-A .. Rear Sway Bar Link-R/L same / Obsolete
1977/79 F250 4WD / 1979 F350 4WD
Note: 1977 F250 4WD from serial number Y20,001 (not a High Boy), 1978/79 F250 4WD & 1979 F350 4WD use a different rear sway bar than the above, but the links are the same as High Boys.
#18
Thanks for all the info, NumberDummy! Here's another gem you've posted before, that I'm posting here for my future reference.
Front springs on all 67/79 F250 4x4 are 3" wide. "High Boy" springs on a Low Boy raises the front by about 2 inches.
The Rough Country Add-a-Leaf kit also raises the front by about 2 inches.
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
High Boy ~ Enthusiast term for: 1967/76 F250 4WD & 1977 F250 4WD before serial number Y20,001.
High Boys have a 5 or 6 front leaf spring pack, a divorced transfer case and an in-cab fuel tank.
High Boys have a 5 or 6 front leaf spring pack, a divorced transfer case and an in-cab fuel tank.
The Rough Country Add-a-Leaf kit also raises the front by about 2 inches.
#19
I got a good set of Hi-Boy front leaf springs from a donor pickup which raised the front-end enough to align the pitman arm with the steering arm and virtually eliminated the bump steer.
I put the Hi-Boy springs inside the Lo-Boy spring perches, though, which will have to be either modified and/or replaced with the older style to make it safe/finished/reliable; the '78/79 springs use a larger front mounting bolt and the perch is slightly wider.
I used the Lo-Boy shackles, which are longer, to match the Lo-Boy spring perches.
It raised the front-end quite a bit, which means I'll have to go back to the donor pickup and get the rear springs as well to make the pickup set level.
I put the Hi-Boy springs inside the Lo-Boy spring perches, though, which will have to be either modified and/or replaced with the older style to make it safe/finished/reliable; the '78/79 springs use a larger front mounting bolt and the perch is slightly wider.
I used the Lo-Boy shackles, which are longer, to match the Lo-Boy spring perches.
It raised the front-end quite a bit, which means I'll have to go back to the donor pickup and get the rear springs as well to make the pickup set level.
#20
It seems I've come across a problem that I can't figure out. After a seemingly random amount of driving, the engine will die. Ignition is good - the tachometer shows RPM and plug wires spark.
I disconnected the fuel line going to the front of the carburetor and cranked the engine - and the carb is getting no fuel.
Strange thing is, let the pickup set for 15 minutes and it'll get gas and start.
At first I thought the problem was a leaky/rusty pick-up line inside the gas tank. To test the theory I built a new pick-up tube, replacing the fuel-level sending unit. Now I'm not so sure what the problem is; the engine died again tonight and after setting for 15 minutes it started right back up.
It's not carb vapor lock - fuel isn't getting TO the carb.
I've tried driving with the gas cap slightly open to eliminate the possibility of vacuum building up in the gas tank to no avail.
The fuel pump with integral fuel filter has been replaced. Similar to THIS pump.
Fuel lines are clear.
I have no idea where to look next. Can the fuel pump, itself, vapor lock?
I disconnected the fuel line going to the front of the carburetor and cranked the engine - and the carb is getting no fuel.
Strange thing is, let the pickup set for 15 minutes and it'll get gas and start.
At first I thought the problem was a leaky/rusty pick-up line inside the gas tank. To test the theory I built a new pick-up tube, replacing the fuel-level sending unit. Now I'm not so sure what the problem is; the engine died again tonight and after setting for 15 minutes it started right back up.
It's not carb vapor lock - fuel isn't getting TO the carb.
I've tried driving with the gas cap slightly open to eliminate the possibility of vacuum building up in the gas tank to no avail.
The fuel pump with integral fuel filter has been replaced. Similar to THIS pump.
Fuel lines are clear.
I have no idea where to look next. Can the fuel pump, itself, vapor lock?
#21
A couple things to check:
- Rubber hoses between the tank and pump (if they're old & soft and suck closed, it'll starve for fuel)
- Fuel tank venting (try removing the gas cap next time it happens and see if that solves it) - if you have an evaporative emissions system, this would be a plugged vent line/charcoal canister; if not, it would mean your vented fuel cap needs replacing.
#22
A couple things to check:
- Rubber hoses between the tank and pump (if they're old & soft and suck closed, it'll starve for fuel)
- Fuel tank venting (try removing the gas cap next time it happens and see if that solves it) - if you have an evaporative emissions system, this would be a plugged vent line/charcoal canister; if not, it would mean your vented fuel cap needs replacing.
I replaced the pick-up tube with a temporary one (replacing the fuel level sending unit) so I'm fairly certain the pick-up tube isn't leaking. At the same time I replaced the rubber hose from the tank to the steel line so I know it can't be an old/collapsing fuel line.
#23
#24
It seems that the pick-up tube was intermittently clogging, stopping fuel flow. In the process, the suction pulling against the clog seems to have ruined the fuel pump so I replaced it. I also installed an in-line filter to catch some of the rust before it is again filtered by the in-pump filter. Looks like I'm definitely in the market for a new in-cab gas tank.
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